Td5 Fueling Problem

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Td5D2

New Member
Posts
28
Location
Hampshire, England
Hi guys,
In April I did a full service on my Td5 Disco. I changed the fuel filter which was a mistake. I think it has air in the system.
I have read and used lots of procedures to bleeding the diesel system but as far as I can work out, none have worked. It takes a while to start (about 10-20 seconds of cranking) with the throttle to the floor. When I turn the ignition on, I hear a whining noise and it continues when the engine is running, it is very loud as you can hear it over the Td5. It also smokes on start up which I can only imagine is the unburnt diesel coming out of the 'zorst.
Until recently, it ran fine once I got the thing started but now when I'm in slow moving traffic it stalls and won't start again for a while, this only started happening when I filled the tank to the top. A couple of days ago, I changed the filter again with a Coopers one (it originally has a Mann one) which helped the problem briefly but now it's back again.
This problem has gone from annoying to absolutely dangerous.
What do you think is the solution to my problem? Is it simply a case of bleeding the system manually (where is the bloody primer pump???), a new pump? or is it an injector problem?

Thanks in advance for the help guys and I am seriously wondering why the bloody hell I bought a Td5.
 
could be any of the 3 or all of them ,its worth removing pump from tank and removing plastic cover from the bottom and checking filter screen ,if its dirty you can clean tank through hole easily enough ,if copper washers leak on injectors you can get combustion gas in fuel rail ,you can see evidence by staing on washer but not till removed,check air bleed in outlet nearest rear wheel rear of filter head and remove one way valve in front chassis side outlet
 
Hi guys,
In April I did a full service on my Td5 Disco. I changed the fuel filter which was a mistake. I think it has air in the system.
I have read and used lots of procedures to bleeding the diesel system but as far as I can work out, none have worked. It takes a while to start (about 10-20 seconds of cranking) with the throttle to the floor. When I turn the ignition on, I hear a whining noise and it continues when the engine is running, it is very loud as you can hear it over the Td5. It also smokes on start up which I can only imagine is the unburnt diesel coming out of the 'zorst.
Until recently, it ran fine once I got the thing started but now when I'm in slow moving traffic it stalls and won't start again for a while, this only started happening when I filled the tank to the top. A couple of days ago, I changed the filter again with a Coopers one (it originally has a Mann one) which helped the problem briefly but now it's back again.
This problem has gone from annoying to absolutely dangerous.
What do you think is the solution to my problem? Is it simply a case of bleeding the system manually (where is the bloody primer pump???), a new pump? or is it an injector problem?

Thanks in advance for the help guys and I am seriously wondering why the bloody hell I bought a Td5.


The first thing I would do is to check that any previous oil filter seals were not left in place, when you installed the new ones. I felt such a côck when I did this on mine:eek::eek:

Next this is to go through this bleeding sequence EXACTLY as written:

1. Open the drivers door window, get out of the car and turn the key to pos II so the pump is working;

2. Leave like that for 3 mins or until the pump shuts off, whichever is the shorter (this is the priming sequence);

3. Now start the engine WITHOUT touching the throttle pedal.

Report back your findings.

Good luck

Dave
 
The correct way of bleeding/priming a Td5 is, switch the ignition on press the accelerator pedal flat out to the floor and release fully.......do this 5 times consecutively ,after you switched the ignition on and you will notice the engine light is now flashing and the pump is running, the engine control unit is now in bleed/prime sequence, don't worry when you hear the pump switch off because that is what the ECU does, once the engine light stops flashing the sequence is over, switch ignition off and on, do the whole thing over, I do this three times and vehicle starts immediately after a fuel filter swap.
Now personally I don't think this will fix your concern, purely because you have driven the vehicle already, in my experience you are most likely going to need to renew the fuel pump, filter, micro filter that is the one everybody mis, its located in the brass fitting that bolts into fuel filter housing....if memory doesn't fail me its the front inner one( will double check for you have not done one in a long time) new injector seals the copper ones and new injector o-rings.
 
1. The correct way of bleeding/priming a Td5 is, switch the ignition on press the accelerator pedal flat out to the floor and release fully.......do this 5 times consecutively ,after you switched the ignition on and you will notice the engine light is now flashing and the pump is running, the engine control unit is now in bleed/prime sequence, don't worry when you hear the pump switch off because that is what the ECU does, once the engine light stops flashing the sequence is over, switch ignition off and on, do the whole thing over, I do this three times and vehicle starts immediately after a fuel filter swap.


No it's not, check your owners handbook. I know that lots of peeps quote this 5 pump business, but according to the owners handbook it is as I have stated.


Dave
 
Checked it, the micro filter is in the rear inner brass fitting. On second thought just try the micro filter renewal and see what happens.
 
Air bleed valve or FPR. The latter failed on me without leaking and the Disco kept stalling and screamed when starting. Been through several bleed valves, on older TD5's it is in the outside, rear connection on the fuel filter, check if clean and in place.
 
Thanks for the info guys.
Well I've replaced the fuel pump, not fixed it.
Replaced the injector seals and harness, we shall see tomorrow when I take it for a drive.
 
After replacing the above, the car now runs beautifully.
I've also spent the day changing engine, gear box, trans. box and diff oils plus all the other fluids ready for my expedition next week :)
It makes a world of difference, if your LR is ever feeling a bit ill, change its fluids, that'll make it better :)
 
After replacing the above, the car now runs beautifully.
I've also spent the day changing engine, gear box, trans. box and diff oils plus all the other fluids ready for my expedition next week :)
It makes a world of difference, if your LR is ever feeling a bit ill, change its fluids, that'll make it better :)

That's great news, keep on top of the servicing and you'll have an excellent reliable Landy.


Dave
 
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