Td5 Forge actuator

Hi Guys just wondered if anyone has fitted a forge actuator for the turbo on there td5 and if so what’s it like compared to the standard one? Recently changed to an aftermarket one and it was dog shi”””! No way to find a new Genuine one either other than buying a whole new unit

Hi, i have it and it's way better than the original, get a MBC like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-MANU...PRING-VALVE-/220537042109?hash=item33590834bd then no need to adjust the rod, let it 1mm longer than the original and adjust from the controller untill it goes to overboost under heavy load then turn back a bit or if you have gauge or nanocom rely on that... the boost curve is much smoother wthis way

Thanks fery I shall look into this... what’s it like if I just had the forge actuator on its own without the control valve?

The only thing i can blame on the forge actuator is that it's hard to adjust cos you have to unhook it from the wastegate for each turn ... that's why the MBC is good with it... the original is better made from this point of view

sierrafery said:

The only thing i can blame on the forge actuator is that it's hard to adjust cos you have to unhook it from the wastegate for each turn ... that's why the MBC is good with it... the original is better made from this point of view

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Thanks mate very interesting! Still I’m not to worried about unhooking it does it come set as standered? And most importantly is it easy to pull down to hook onto the turbo once adjusted?

It's not set from factory it needs adjustment, i was fed up with that adjusting system and fortunately i have a friend with a lathe who made me a more human friendly adjuster with a hex in the middle and opposite threads both ways... then i bough the MBC cos it's better with it

Discodevon said:

Thanks mate very interesting! Still I’m not to worried about unhooking it does it come set as standered? And most importantly is it easy to pull down to hook onto the turbo once adjusted?

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Ive the same set up. It is a pain in the ass to adjust, fitting the controller is much much better. Not to mention it will be fecking red hot

I also found I was getting boost creep without the controller.

Cheers chaps what sort of boost controller would it need? The one on the link above had two pipe outlets td5 only has one?

Discodevon said:

The one on the link above had two pipe outlets td5 only has one?

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The one Sierrafery linked is the ideal one you need, it has two outlets as it is plumbed into the existing actuator pipework, it works by "bleeding" (hence the slang of bleeder valve) off the boost reference going to the actuator - the adjuster bolt simply screws in and out to increase or decrease spring tension on the ball valve within the controller, thus meaning more boost is required to overcome the spring tension (or less), before actually having any effect upon the wastegate. Added bonus is the elimination of wastegate creep, as once correctly adjusted the wastegate moves in a more digital on / off fashion, rather than creeping open and shut.



Basically, screw it in and get more boost.

Exactly ^^^ ... the one i linked is the one i have

Discodevon said:

Cheers chaps what sort of boost controller would it need? The one on the link above had two pipe outlets td5 only has one?

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I bought the forge one so it matched lol

Running ~22psi but thats on a hybrid turbo with a few other mods. If yours is standard ~18psi is the max before overboost kicks in

Thanks guys I will have a purchase session this weekend then is boost creep quite common then when playing with the turbo?

Mine arrived today Typical as I won’t get to fit it until next week.

@sierrafery is there a good rod length to use as a starting point?

equal eventually 1mm longer that the original one on std setting(13 threads) then you play with the MBC to bring it right under the oberboost limit

sierrafery said:

equal eventually 1mm longer that the original one on std setting(13 threads) then you play with the MBC to bring it right under the oberboost limit

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Many thanks. Also there are three nuts on the rod, are these all lock nuts? I cannot find a photo of one fitted.

the two valve side are locked against each other to keep the rod from turning with a spanner and the 3'rd is a locknut for the wastegate side... mine is modified so a pic from it won't help

sierrafery said:

the two valve side are locked against each other to keep the rod from turning with a spanner and the 3'rd is a locknut for the wastegate side... mine is modified so a pic from it won't help

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So more like this?

Yes you've got it... the problem is that the rod turns within the valve too so if you want to adjust it while it's connected it would unscrew from the w-gate side and screw into the valve and vice versa so no movement on the w-gate that's why if no MBC added you have to unhook it from the wastegate for each turn of that side if you see what i mean

Ah yes that does sound like a pain to unhook it now...can get a second hand turbo for the price of the forge actuator but they do sound well built unlike other junk I had on mine recently... haven’t ordered yet but eager to see the outcome with Toms new setup

Well mines setup (I think), max MAP reading just under 240kpa. I found the rod length needs to be slightly longer than the original, to allow the boost controller “room” to adjust as I ended up unscrewing the whole thing and nearly losing the internals!