Disco 3 (LR3) Turbo Actuator

Guys. I’m new to Land Rover Disco 3’s. I’ve just bought a lovely black one owner 2008 Disco 3. I’ve got the “check engine systems” dialogue on in the cluster, occasional EML light and limp mode in place. My little diagnosis tool says turbo actuator/ EGR valves. My mechanic has checked it out and says the actuator arm is stuck solid but the turbo seems ok. Is changing the actuator a big job and can anyone recommend a good specialist in central Scotland? Thanks so much for any advice! Appreciate it.

NewDunoonBoy said:

Guys. I’m new to Land Rover Disco 3’s. I’ve just bought a lovely black one owner 2008 Disco 3. I’ve got the “check engine systems” dialogue on in the cluster, occasional EML light and limp mode in place. My little diagnosis tool says turbo actuator/ EGR valves. My mechanic has checked it out and says the actuator arm is stuck solid but the turbo seems ok. Is changing the actuator a big job and can anyone recommend a good specialist in central Scotland? Thanks so much for any advice! Appreciate it.

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You can free the actuator up from under the nearside front wheel arch, I should imagine changing the actuator on its own is a body of job not to be taken lightly
Join the disco three forum disco.co.uk and once you are a member which is pretty much instant try search there is loads on there
On the EGR valves as yours is a euro 4 model you cannot just blank then you have to eithet fit emulators or have the mapped out if you blank them

Thanks for your help! I’ll try that one. Don’t fancy the body off too much! Liam

NewDunoonBoy said:

Thanks for your help! I’ll try that one. Don’t fancy the body off too much! Liam

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It was a common issue a few years back, a length of stiff garden wire, some lube and lots of patience will free them up, sometimes have to be done more than once until its good to go.
Iirc there was an ecu update that meant the ecu exercised the actuator when engine turned off to stop them seizing up.

Iirc @gstuart had the same issue a few years back, and he is bound to have some pics as it is bit of an arse to see the linkage.

Thank you

Hi

found a video for u , alas the actuator can’t be removed on its own , turbo has to come out, u can remove the turbo with the body on but is a right sod to do , it’s easier with the body off , but with some grease and indeed as mentioned by @lynall a coat hanger bent up u can free it off

hope it helps

lynall said:

It was a common issue a few years back, a length of stiff garden wire, some lube and lots of patience will free them up, sometimes have to be done more than once until its good to go.
Iirc there was an ecu update that meant the ecu exercised the actuator when engine turned off to stop them seizing up.

Iirc @gstuart had the same issue a few years back, and he is bound to have some pics as it is bit of an arse to see the linkage.

Click to expand...

hi mate

found a video for the op , see someone on the d3 forum recently changed his turbo with the body on but was a complete sod to change , think the upper wishbone also have to come off to get better access to the turbo ,wouldn’t fancy taking that job that’s for sure without a lift

Hi mate try the coat hanger and wd method first, you can indeed remove the turbo without body off. In brief jack up front end, axle stands, wheel off remove the 3 heat shields (at this point you can try to free it off) remove the one on the turbo itself remove intercooler and filter pipes from the turbo undo exhaust from the turbo I undo the rear top arm nut and tap back the bolt but do not remove this give good access to two of the exhaust nuts (other from underneath I then trolley jack under motor being careful I use wooden blocks and avoid jacking on the sump remove top mounting nut raise engine your just taking the weight enough to remove the engine mounting this gives you a bit of space, unplug actuator remove oil supply pipe and the return to the block latter can be fiddly. If you can remove the brackets from the turbo itself it will come out of the hole you created by moving the heat shields you need to move a few wires (not sure about removing top arm) as usually they are seized so the only way i have found is to remove the front pipe/cat (which means chocking box and removing or dropping it) will the come out through the hole created complete with brackets. the top two nuts are difficult my special tool is a six sided spanner cut in half and welded to a socket lol ( I think there is a picture on my thread I also use it to get to the top two bolts on a D3 transfer box) I promise you this method works have even done it on my drive if you end up having to go this route i would be happy to go into it in more depth key to a D3 is doing it yourself hope the first method works good luck

Thanks for all the time you have taken to put this message together. I’m so grateful. Have a great weekend and thanks again

No problem was lunch time

thanks