ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 843
remove the sump possible oil pick up pipe has broke off or a failed oil pump
Td5 D2 injector fault
- Thread starter Jaykay1987
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
markomate2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 898
- Location
- Bedford and Tallinn
If its got the point where the cam/valves etc have started to seize, then its probably not worth doing much more investigation work.
In all probability the way forward is another engine from a breaker, there are few on fleabay.
Get one from a decent breaker rather than a cheap "rebuilt" one.
Mark
In all probability the way forward is another engine from a breaker, there are few on fleabay.
Get one from a decent breaker rather than a cheap "rebuilt" one.
Mark
offroadmad
Active Member
- Posts
- 440
- Location
- somerset
or like you mentioned above - after changing my engine i could not get it to start - would not start on easy start either
after hours of messing it turned out to be the ecu
offroadmad
Active Member
- Posts
- 440
- Location
- somerset
oil pump bolt ?Just an update...think i know why the timing slipped...just started taking the head off, and took the chain tensioner out, an there wasnt a drop of oil in it or the pipe feeding it...then went on to realise the turbo is seized solid you cant spin the blades at all. When i checked the oil feed to the turbo there wasnt even a residue of oil coming out.View attachment 111167
So checked the rotary oil filter...again not a drop of oil in the housing or dripping out the filter either, literally nothing.View attachment 111168View attachment 111170
Then checked the normal oil filter, and yep barely any oil init!View attachment 111169
So i thought lets see if the main oil filter feed squirts oil out when cranking it over, or out of any other oil pipes...NOTHING AT ALL!!So, isit common for the pumps to fail like this? Or would it be the oil pick up in the sump? Shoot me please lol
Ps it has plenty of oil in it
ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 843
you can remove the ECU and still make the engine turn over by giving the starter motor 12 volts
when using easy start the easy start becomes the primary fuel source and the engine will still fire up but cut out once the easy start is used up
unless you can prove otherwise that the ECU controls valve timing and the ECU makes the engine go into decompression mechanically then yes you would be correct
easy start will start your engine even if the ECU is removed and all you need is 12 volts and short the starter motor out
here you go a Td5 starting without an ECU this might baffle a few people but using flammable spray becomes the primary fuel source
Last edited:
Jaykay1987
Active Member
- Posts
- 109
- Location
- Liverpool
Can you indulge a little more im clueless as to what it is and does?
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
Have a shufti here, worthwhile bookmarking this website.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
Cheers
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
Cheers
Jaykay1987
Active Member
- Posts
- 109
- Location
- Liverpool
I have a mint running engine in a manual td5, so im using that...any tips on taking the engine out, ie how am i splitting the flex plate from torque converter to leave torque converter situated in the box?
Cheers
Last edited:
markomate2
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 898
- Location
- Bedford and Tallinn
Hi
Mines a manual but removal is gong to be pretty similar.
Use a 2 Tonne hoist, a 1 Tonne doesnt have the reach.
Follow the guidance given in the RAVE manual.
Its a 1 man operation, refitting is a bit more tricky, Ill try to find a post I did on here showing how I did it.
Before you fit the "new" one its worth fitting new front/rear crank seals and checking/re-torquing the dam oil pump sprocket bolt!
Mark
Mines a manual but removal is gong to be pretty similar.
Use a 2 Tonne hoist, a 1 Tonne doesnt have the reach.
Follow the guidance given in the RAVE manual.
Its a 1 man operation, refitting is a bit more tricky, Ill try to find a post I did on here showing how I did it.
Before you fit the "new" one its worth fitting new front/rear crank seals and checking/re-torquing the dam oil pump sprocket bolt!
Mark
Jaykay1987
Active Member
- Posts
- 109
- Location
- Liverpool
Cheers i plan on doing the seals an bolt nost definatley...think i know the score on the torque convertor, starter off then socket on extension thru the flywheel??
