Td5 D2 injector fault

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Jaykay1987

Active Member
Posts
109
Location
Liverpool
ive of put my td5 whas not starting on a snap-on diagnostic on cylinder balanc. Each time i cranked over i got different cylinders down random patterns, i checked my other running td5 and they were all near enough matching....can anyone tell me why the injectors are all out of whack? Does this mean a fuel delivery problem? Ive done crank sensor, injector harness, injector seals and i know im geting fuel at the cooler...these are the readings i got
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They did anyway, but they definatley do now ive reprogrammed them just to be sure:)...but still nothing, looking at the data, looks to me like fuel delivery?
 
Sorry i get you, no its getting juice all fine...i have a manual td5 im using so im going to swap bits as i go...im thinking of the fuel pump first, then injectors, if that fails it must be ecu
 
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The injector roughness is relevant only at idle with engine up to running temp, other kind of readings can differ affected by temperature and rpm
 
No fault codes logged? then it might be fuel pressure related, can you hear the pump running? ...if you still have the scanner read the crank sensor input and measure battery voltage while cranking...if it drops below 10V it will happily spin but will not start...if it's manual try to bump start it
 
No fault codes logged? then it might be fuel pressure related, can you hear the pump running?...if you still have the scanner read the crank sensor input and measure battery voltage while cranking...if it drops below 10V it will happily spin but will not start...if it's manual try to bump start it

No fault codes at all...yeah the pump is going, as ive checked its getting fuel at the cooler....also what would cause a fuel pressure issue? Could the FPR have failed? ...i swapped the crank sensor for a working one out of my other td5, what/why would cause this voltage drop, battery? It has a brand new 1000a 120ah battery, also its an auto

Cheers:)
 
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The starter can cause voltage drop if it has an internal issue and this creates a "noise" which disturbs the crank signal by induction, this is quite common for td5s, on the manuals it's easy to rule this out if it reacts to bump start but you can't bump start an auto.... you must get above 280rpm crank sensor reading while cranking, below that it will hardly start

the fact that you get fuel to the cooler is irrelevant as long as you dont get 4 bar in the FPR, the pump can run with failed HP stage then you can hear it.
 
I changed the starter over from my running td5, so no issues there...i can hear the pump, but im going to swap the pumps round from my running td5 tomorrow..isit worth swapping the FPR also? Could this fail if so what would it do?

Cheers
 
I know with my Td5 if I replace the filter or any other means of having the fuel system open for other jobs
I can prime and prime and prime but it wont start due to a dodgy air relief valve inside the fuel filter housing or check valve
some times I need to spray some deodorant or any other solvent down the air intake to help the engine fire up (only if my fuel system has been open )

I ran out of fuel once due to my own stupity ..I installed 20 litres and sat an primed for 20 minutes the engine would not start ..it did try while I was cranking and foot on the peddle but it would die instantly



depending on your engines history has there been carbon in the fuel system due to failed copper washers ..the filter picks most of this up but the return fuel line goes back to the fuel regulator and back through the head ..there is a screen gauze inside the head behind the fuel regulator

this gauze filter is a nice place where fuel gathers and the main filter will not see

spray some flammable stuff down the intake see if this helps to help with the priming of the fuel process
air in system will give you inconstant readings
 
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ps
if you going to remove the fuel regulator make sure you have a new gasket on hand ..they are a steel type crush gasket and cant be re used ..(I have tried )

as for installing a fuel pressure gauge .best to get reading from the fuel return.. from the front of the head least this way you can see what pressure is inside the cylinder head and not before the head
 
I know with my Td5 if I replace the filter or any other means of having the fuel system open for other jobs
I can prime and prime and prime but it wont start due to a dodgy air relief valve inside the fuel filter housing or check valve
some times I need to spray some deodorant or any other solvent down the air intake to help the engine fire up (only if my fuel system has been open )

I ran out of fuel once due to my own stupity ..I installed 20 litres and sat an primed for 20 minutes the engine would not start ..it did try while I was cranking and foot on the peddle but it would die instantly



depending on your engines history has there been carbon in the fuel system due to failed copper washers ..the filter picks most of this up but the return fuel line goes back to the fuel regulator and back through the head ..there is a screen gauze inside the head behind the fuel regulator

this gauze filter is a nice place where fuel gathers and the main filter will not see

spray some flammable stuff down the intake see if this helps to help with the priming of the fuel process
air in system will give you inconstant readings
I think the TD5 air in fuel problems has many threads on here,
The fuel pressure regulator can be a nuance but you can get a repair kit on Tbay quite cheap its easy to do but a bit fiddly and don't loose the little mesh filter in the head.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FUEL-...284587?hash=item5b08d6472b:g:nHEAAOSwpDdVC-YW

The non return valve is high on the suspects but its a waste of time buying a new one it comes without the little red balloon neck (looks like a ducks beak) which actually stops the back flow,
non_ret_valve-jpg.30724

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...117542?hash=item4d4d76de26:g:64sAAOSwB09YDS~D

there is also a bleed valve in the fuel filter head if its mucked up with carbon and dirt it will give problems.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-filter-bleed-valve-genuine-wkb100330-wjn500110-p-17972.html

Last year I took the fuel filter off then took off the head unit which the filter screws onto, gave it a dam good clean replaced the little bleed valve and all 4 of the copper sealing washers on the pipes then gave it about 3 good bleeds and it has been fine since............... Hush my mouth bet that's knackered it.
 
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I think the TD5 air in fuel problems has many threads on here,
The fuel pressure regulator can be a nuance but you can get a repair kit on Tbay quite cheap its easy to do but a bit fiddly and don't loose the little mesh filter in the head.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FUEL-...284587?hash=item5b08d6472b:g:nHEAAOSwpDdVC-YW

The non return valve is high on the suspects but its a waste of time buying a new one it comes without the little red balloon neck (looks like a ducks beak) which actually stops the back flow,
non_ret_valve-jpg.30724

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...117542?hash=item4d4d76de26:g:64sAAOSwB09YDS~D

there is also a bleed valve in the fuel filter head if its mucked up with carbon and dirt it will give problems.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-filter-bleed-valve-genuine-wkb100330-wjn500110-p-17972.html

Last year I took the fuel filter off then took off the head unit which the filter screws onto, gave it a dam good clean replaced the little bleed valve and all 4 of the copper sealing washers on the pipes then gave it about 3 good bleeds and it has been fine since............... Hush my mouth bet that's knackered it.
it not me with the issue mate

but I have been down this path many years ago trying to get a none return valve ..they do not sell them and landrover want you to purchase the full housing for 300 bucks and they still wont tell you if it comes with a none return valve LOL

I have opted to remove mine completely as it was usless ... removing it does not give me any issues unless I have the fuel system open for any repair jobs ..soon as the fuel system is open ie to replace a filter or fuel line or clean the gauze inside the head fuel runs back to the tank pretty quick

otherwise once its primed up and running the engine can be left for days and weeks and starts first click of the key
 
I think the TD5 air in fuel problems has many threads on here,
The fuel pressure regulator can be a nuance but you can get a repair kit on Tbay quite cheap its easy to do but a bit fiddly and don't loose the little mesh filter in the head.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FUEL-...284587?hash=item5b08d6472b:g:nHEAAOSwpDdVC-YW

The non return valve is high on the suspects but its a waste of time buying a new one it comes without the little red balloon neck (looks like a ducks beak) which actually stops the back flow,
non_ret_valve-jpg.30724

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...117542?hash=item4d4d76de26:g:64sAAOSwB09YDS~D

there is also a bleed valve in the fuel filter head if its mucked up with carbon and dirt it will give problems.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-filter-bleed-valve-genuine-wkb100330-wjn500110-p-17972.html

Last year I took the fuel filter off then took off the head unit which the filter screws onto, gave it a dam good clean replaced the little bleed valve and all 4 of the copper sealing washers on the pipes then gave it about 3 good bleeds and it has been fine since............... Hush my mouth bet that's knackered it.

Where does this return valve go?
Sorry im new to the td5s lol
 
Forget about that non return valve 10P's dont have it, it's quite useless anyway, the important one is the air bleed valve but that would cause only hard starting not no starting
 
Where does this return valve go?
Sorry im new to the td5s lol
Forget about that non return valve 10P's dont have it, it's quite useless anyway, the important one is the air bleed valve but that would cause only hard starting not no starting

Ahh thanks...so the air bleed valve in the fuel filter head, is that in all 4 of the connectors, or isit just one? In short do i have to change all four connections?
 
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