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TD5 Cut out and will not start

Discussion in 'TD5' started by ZippyIII, May 21, 2011.

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  1. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    I have a Discovery 2 TD5 which I have just fitted a recon turbo(bearings and oil seal gone), she has been standing for 2 weeks so the battery was nearly flat, had to jump start it. Engine ran on idle OK but when accelerating up a hill had some black smoke then loss of power, cut out and now will not start. Checked over turbo all seems OK found aftercooler outlet hose loose. Is their any way/sequence of resetting the ECU etc?
    Change the oil and air filters only not touched anything on the fuel side and can hear the fuel pump in tank, any ideas?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  2. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    make sure battery is proerlky charged upp the fact theres enough to turn it over dosent mean theres enough to start ,i often cant get them to fire without boost back after working on them
     
  3. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    Iam going to charge it up tonight and try again tomorrow see how we go thankyou
     
  4. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    OK fully charged battery, still non starter.
    Removed breather from air intake quick squirt of jungle juice and engine fires up on this then dies. Found other threads about oil in loom, yep! oil leak from injector loom plug and oil down to ECU fitted new 'o'rings under rocker cover to cure external leak. Cleaned oil out of connections and opened ECU to check for oil all now dry, still not starting. Looks like its a Garage job as I dont have access to a code reader. Battery back on charge
     
  5. jak1471

    jak1471 New Member

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    Any luck?
     
  6. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    Sorry to say no!
    I've been hunting through the forums for info and tried the crank sensor, not that.
    Towed her to the local L/R workshop to find a pond of diesel on the road where she was parked which was not there during all the checking. Informed by the garage that the fuel pipe was leaking above the tank (common fault) which has to be dropped to change the fuel lines.
    New pipes fitted only to find now that the pump is knackered running at only 1kg. Now waiting for new pump on Tuesday. I wish the diesel leak appeared before I took it to the garage £££.
     
  7. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    I have been reading so many posts about TD5 engine running problems looking for idears on how to sort mine out but I think I have covered everything, but!!!!!.
    The fuel pump in the tank and the MAF senser changed by the garage and the engine has started but sounding rough. Advised by the garage to change the injector loom and as oil has made it to the red plug the main harness will need changing to.
    Towed her back home, spent the weekend rewireing the main harness to remove the oiled wires, checked meter readings all seams to be good on the 2x looms. Removed the injectors one at a time changed the copper washers which were on their way out but not gone and the seals. The engine now starts on the key but number 5 clyinder is missing found it to be alot colder on the exhaust manifold port compared to the other 4. Other jobs carried out was to removed and blank the EGR valve, remove the Aftercooler clean the gunk out and check the hoses. Found alot of oil under the battery box which means loom has been passing oil for a long time. Looks like it will have to back for more for the faults to be read again. What next is their any reason why one injector packed up now. ANY IDEARS!!!!!!!!!
     
  8. ZippyIII

    ZippyIII Member

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    OK all fixed and she is pulling like a train.:D
    Just to let anyone with these problems know what happened and hope it maybe of some help. For a long time she felt under-powered that was why I checked the MAF sensor found excess oil from turbo, things then went downhill.
    The last thing was all 5 injectors tested 2 were knackered needing a full service, my theory is that one injector has been faulty for some time then when the second injector failed that&#8217;s when the ECU shut down??. Now I have 5 good injectors and wiring looms, new turbo, EGR valve removed, new fuel pump and MAF sensor. Totally different vehicle sounds smoother, and she will now pull up hills in 5th when before it would have been 4th and still dropping
     
    raywin likes this.
  9. Alan Crossley

    Alan Crossley Well-Known Member

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    He
    Hello James. I have just posted a cry for help which tells of my Td5 engine cutting out after towing a trailer and pony for an hour. I have had some battery charge issues and made enquiries about a new one yesterday.

    My question is, can a poorly performing batter cause problems relating to unexpected cutt out?

    Alan
     
  10. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    if voltage drops it could
     
  11. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    i read this thread and tested mine... i started the engine then disconnected batts( i have duel bats) both disconnected when engine was running i then loaded up head lights spot lights and AC the engine never missed a beat
    this tells me the alternator is supplying more than enough
    installing new batt might not fix your issues
     
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  12. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    the MAF sensor should not of seen any oil its before the turbo air intake
    egr valve failure would be lack of power (still run though )
    2 injectors failed this would then make engine run rough (miss)
    new turbo WHY ?
    new fuel pump why ?
    my TD5 would shut down now and then turned out to be combustion washers ..
     
  13. Alan Crossley

    Alan Crossley Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks James. I will get the battery tested and see if that provides any evidence. I will also buy the new battery that I looked at. Mine is at least six years old and I only use the car once a week on fairly short towing journeys

    Really appreciate your help. Alan
     
  14. Alan Crossley

    Alan Crossley Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your thoughts which make sense. My battery is at least six years old and I only use the car once per week to tow to my daughters riding lesson.

    With the recent cold spell I have had to start the car on the battery charger or, if I remember, charge it the night before.

    Thanks for your thoughts, which are greatly appreciated. Alan
     
  15. Alan Crossley

    Alan Crossley Well-Known Member

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    That's very good news, but did it take up all of your lottery winnings?
     
  16. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    better not do this kind of tests in the future cos the battery acts as a ''damper'' for the alternstor's output which can go up to above 20V without the battery connected and carry a certain AC component as the rectifier is not a stabilised one and some ECU's internal circuit might suffer
     
  17. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    that's only if the alternator has a failed regulator but the batt would cook eventually
    little trick I learned when I use to run car audio competitions... we us to trick the sense wire or allow the sense wire to get a signal from a weaker source... this gained an extra voltage or 2 when needing power on demand ..you can trick the regulator so the alt pumps out max voltage .12 volt windings on the motor normally max out 16 to 17 volts (stock alternator ) rpm at idle ECU s and other electronics didn't suffer
     
  18. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    no it's not, the regulator is calibrated to work with the battery's internal resistance as parallel load... unhook the alternator's output from the car's electrics and measure then to see voltage but not with multimeter, with oscilloscope then compare with the output connected to battery and you'll see the huge difference... though this is kind'a off topic here
     
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