Td4 won't start
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Arctic2
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check and change the O-rings on the HPFP regulator, cost is only £5.90, also check the fuel rail sensor unplug it a spray contacts with some contact cleaner, then if those fail do a leak back test on the injectors.
teddywood1
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if it is starting with easy start then it sounds like a fuel issue
Ware do I look for the o ring hpfp am new to all this sorry if i sound dumb lol and now ware the fuel rsil sensor is
many thanks matt
Arctic2
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Hi Mat.
Link below on where to purchase the regulator O-rings .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332858002500?ViewItem=&item=332858002500
Below also are a few photo's of the high pressure fuel pump, which the regulator is bolted onto, easiest way to get to the regulator is to remove the starter motor, first photo is the fuel rail sensor.
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blodge
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Did you have any problems starting before the engine went to non-start mode? If it is the regulator O ring then usually you get poor hot starting before it fails completely.
[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
it wouldn't start on cold or hot worse I would say wen hot
Looking at the pics that's ware u can hear this the hissing sounds like split in a air hose
The hissing sound is normal, as that's the fuel being pumped through the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP).
Could it still b the o ring as u can here the hissing
blodge
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You can clean it up with contact cleaner and a toothbrush - if it starts then you found the problem! Otherwise you need a diagnostic machine to look at the data coming out of it.
I think it is the o ring in the fuel pressure regulator - when the engine is cranking the high pressure fuel is leaking past the o ring and the pressure in the high-pressure rail never gets high enough for the engine management system to fire the injectors. Cold fuel is denser and doesn't leak past the faulty seal quite as fast so the engine starts cold but not hot. Eventually the seal gives up completely and you can't get enough pressure at cranking speed. The easy start fires the engine which then drives the pump faster and you get enough fuel to run. You are going to need a T30 torx key to undo the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel pump.
Wait for the seals to arrive then I can put them on is it a easy job ?
blodge
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The hardest bit is getting to the regulator to remove it. Arctic is suggesting above that you take out the starter motor which gives enough space to get behind the fuel pipes etc which you can see in his photos and which will be in front of the regulator when you are looking from the front of the car. I am doing this job just now and I have taken all of the stuff in front of the fuel pump out but I am also replacing the pump (mine is leaking). You will certainly have to remove some other bits to get to it, the number of bits that you have to take out depends on how flexible your arm is.
Once the regulator is out, the O ring is the green part in Arctic's photos. This is easy to replace. The ring which is in behind the o ring should be checked carefully, it is a solid fibre ring so it does not remove from the shaft as easily and if it is in good condition then leave it alone. If the o ring has disintegrated then the high pressure fuel may have damaged the fibre ring as well and you will have to replace both. The fibre ring has an angled cut so that it can be opened up slightly to get it over the filter at the end of the shaft, this is almost invisible so flex it gently to find the slot. My first set of EBay seals came with a solid nylon ring which had no cut and which was impossible to fit - get a set of genuine Bosch seals if you can. The other seals are no problem but make sure that everything is completely clean while you reassemble it.
Once the regulator is out, the O ring is the green part in Arctic's photos. This is easy to replace. The ring which is in behind the o ring should be checked carefully, it is a solid fibre ring so it does not remove from the shaft as easily and if it is in good condition then leave it alone. If the o ring has disintegrated then the high pressure fuel may have damaged the fibre ring as well and you will have to replace both. The fibre ring has an angled cut so that it can be opened up slightly to get it over the filter at the end of the shaft, this is almost invisible so flex it gently to find the slot. My first set of EBay seals came with a solid nylon ring which had no cut and which was impossible to fit - get a set of genuine Bosch seals if you can. The other seals are no problem but make sure that everything is completely clean while you reassemble it.
blodge
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The ring should have a diagonal cut which allows it to stretch just enough to get over the lip which holds the o ring in place. It should look like this:
The first set of seals that I bought from EBay had a nylon ring with no split so I destroyed it trying to get it to fit.Second time around I bought a set of Bosch seals for pretty much the same money and got the one above which fits without a problem.
The seal kit which worked is this one:
If your o ring was badly damaged then that is almost certainly why the engine will not start.
Good luck!
The first set of seals that I bought from EBay had a nylon ring with no split so I destroyed it trying to get it to fit.Second time around I bought a set of Bosch seals for pretty much the same money and got the one above which fits without a problem.
The seal kit which worked is this one:
If your o ring was badly damaged then that is almost certainly why the engine will not start.
Good luck!
Car is alive and well again thank you very much for all your help and info the lol seals was split and the big o ring was missing
comeinhandy
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Big o-ring? What big o-ring? Mine also has no big o-ring, it has a flat gasket, a small rubber o-ring and the small nylon ring
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