Freelander 1 Td4 turns over but won't start

DeepWater · Jul 7, 2021

Hi all,

My pre-facelift Td4 (manual) is currently at the garage. The other week it was running perfectly, however we stopped at a shop, and when we came back 5 minutes later, it refused to start. The engine happily turns over, but refuses to start up on its own. The garage we took it to (an independent LR specialist) has changed the fuel filter as well as the low pressure fuel pump, but none of this has gotten it to start on its own. Our mechanic has managed to get the car running and drive it around, but it still won't start without help. He now says that it could be the high pressure fuel pump, or something to do with the fuel injectors, which would make the car uneconomical to repair.

Has anyone had this experience before, or any advice as to what we can do, because I'd rather not have to give up on the car?

Many thanks.

Nodge68 · Jul 7, 2021

The high pressure fuel regulator O rings can split, which makes starting difficult, without the help of easystart.
The cam sensor can also fail, which will also prevent the engine from starting.
It's also possible that 1 injector has stuck open, preventing the fuel pressure from building.
I'm surprised this LR "specialist" hasn't put it on a diagnostic machine, rather than just replacing random stuff. For instance, it's very easy to check the low pressure fuel pump, so I don't understand why it was replaced, unless it was faulty, in which case it should now start.

DeepWater · Jul 7, 2021

Thank you!
I’m not sure why he’s not plugged it in, because I’m sure he has a copy of testbook.
If it comes down to being a stuck injector, are they difficult to sort? Because the mechanic said it’s not worth the time or money, however I don’t really want to just give up with the car, and would have a try myself if needs be.

Thanks.

Arctic2 · Jul 8, 2021

Personally i would get the car back from the so called LR "specialist" have a leak back test done on the car, check the HPFP regulator and change the O-rings 30 minutes work and cost £5.22
BMW 530d 3.0 Common Rail Pump Pressure Regulator seal kit Bosch x 1 | eBay

Even if it turns out to be the high pressure fuel pump, a good known second hand or refurbished one will cost not more than £80 to purchase 1.5 hours to remove and fit.

If it's an injector again £40 for know good part, hour to fit even less if you know what you are doing.

Cam sensor £30 5 minutes to fit usually the cam sensor fails when the engine is hot, i would go with the Regulator O-rings and then do a leak back test kit below.
Diesel Flow Test Meter Adaptor Set Injector Common Rail 6 Cylinder Bosch Fuel | eBay

Nodge68 · Jul 8, 2021

DeepWater said:
Thank you!

I’m not sure why he’s not plugged it in, because I’m sure he has a copy of testbook.
If it comes down to being a stuck injector, are they difficult to sort? Because the mechanic said it’s not worth the time or money, however I don’t really want to just give up with the car, and would have a try myself if needs be.

Thanks.

I'm with Arctic2 above.
The very first thing to do is put T4 on it. T4 can give injector values, fuel pressure, test crank and cam sensor, and other sensors too.
Sounds like they don't want the work to be honest, as changing a faulty injector isn't that difficult, once it's been identified as the fault.

DeepWater · Jul 8, 2021

Thank you both, I’m now going to wait and see what is said by the garage, and will go from there. I have to say I probably won’t come back to this garage. I reckon you’re right about him not wanting the work, because he has been complaining about being overrun.

I’ll post an outcome when we get somewhere!

DeepWater · Jul 13, 2021

Hi again,

We took the car away from the garage today.
They started it on easy start, and it drove very happily back home. I did try and start it immediately when we got back, but no luck there.

I have ordered the o-rings for the high pressure fuel pump, and will start that at the weekend. However, upon inspection, one of the injectors is very damp at the top, and all four are sitting in a pool of diesel (pictured below). The puddle doesn’t seem to grow in size, and looks like it has been there for quite a while. Do you think this could be the culprit for the non-starting issue?

Many thanks again!

Nodge68 · Jul 13, 2021

It looks like you have something simple, leaking injector copper washers, which will allow a small amount of combustion pressure to leak out. Any good mechanic would be able to spot black death as its known, almost immediately.

Arctic2 · Jul 14, 2021

As above what as that garage been doing with your car, nowt by the looks of it, i had the same problem on my car R40 (Rover 75 ) back in 2020, i spotted mine right away also you could smell it, once i lifted the engine cover it was plan to see, i changed all the copper washers so they would be all new.

1

Did a leak back test as well which the garage could have done and should have done.

2

The short hoses where past there best too so changed those and the T joints to brass one.

3

4

LAND ROVER TD4 - BOSCH C/R HEAVY DUTY LEAK OFF KIT (3 x 180° /1 x 90 / 1m Hose) | eBay

Link for the washers.
4 x BOSCH COMMON RAIL DIESEL INJECTOR COPPER WASHER SEALS. | eBay

Try and clean round the injectors of any gunk and dirt before removing them, also once removed clean out the injector ports with an hoover adapt the end with some hose pipe.

5

6

Add the new washers and refit the injectors.

7

8

9

10

I did not have any trouble starting the car or any misfiring because i caught it right away, yours looks like it been leaking for ages. how did they not spot this, did they give you any answers to what they have actually done ?

Is it diesel in and around the injector have you smelt it touch it, as i can see from the photo, that the bolt is in place in the cam cover where the short engine cover bolts on, is is this because someone as pierced the cover over the cam chain and it spits oil out if the bolt is not in when you start the car, therefore it could be oil mixed with diesel around the injector.

DeepWater · Jul 14, 2021

Thank you both for the responses.

As to what the garage had done, only the low pressure pump and fuel filter has been changed. I know they took off the plastic engine cover, but I don’t think ever looked at the injectors. Other than that, the only thing to be done is him spraying easy start in the air intake.

From what it looks like, it is just diesel around the injectors, no oil from what I can see. I’m not really sure why one of the bolts is there when the engine cover isn’t, but I’m not aware of it spitting oil.

From here, I have already bought some new copper seals, so will have those changed, but will also look into changing the hoses too. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the injectors themselves, but have bought a spare just in case.

Thank you very much for the advice, we’ll be starting work at the weekend, so I’ll post any updates as the job progresses!

DeepWater · Jul 18, 2021

Hi all,

We’ve been working on the car this weekend.
Yesterday, we cleaned all of the excess diesel up, and changed the high pressure fuel pump regulator o rings, and replaced the injector leak off pipe, as well as changing the plastic t junctions for brass ones. This worked momentarily, but then went back to not starting again.

Today, we took the leak of hoses back off of the injectors, and noticed that when the ignition was set to the second position, injector number 4 was filling with diesel. So we took the top of the injector off and drilled through it. Then we put it back on and easily pulled the injector out with a slide hammer. We changed the injector for a working one off of a Rover 75, and all is now working. We have a happy Freelander that starts like it used to. I’ve run half a bottle of comma diesel magic through the tank, and now it seems a lot brisker, so all is good on that front.

I know this is an old threat, but, the car has now started making a high pitch whistling noise when accelerating. Is this likely to be turbo related? I can see that the screw from the air intake has rubbed on a hose, but I don’t think it’s gone all the way through. Could that still be the issue though?

Many thanks for all of your help!

hd3 · Jul 18, 2021

I can see that the screw from the air intake has rubbed on a hose, but I don’t think it’s gone all the way through.

it would only take a very very small hole to make a noise .. given the psi can rise to the near equivalent of a tyre psi
some folks are known to add a buffer to the hose, where it can rub against that intake screw ..
[ i used some silicone-intercooler-hose off-cut .. 'n cable tie ]

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DeepWater · Jul 18, 2021

That’s brilliant, thank you.
I will look into buying a new hose, and using and off cut from the old one as a buffer.
In the mean time, will I be okay to drive around like this, or should it be fixed ASAP?

hd3 · Jul 18, 2021

will I be okay to drive around like this, or should it be fixed ASAP?

IF .. it's a small hole causing the whistling noise

what happens .. when the hole gets bigger ..
the map sensor will still sense some pressure .. allowing fuel delivery
but .. the air pressure release will be divided between the cylinder intakes
and the hole/rip in the intercooler hose ..
so somewhat less air to the cylinder intake ..
result .. black exhaust smoke .. shyte mpg .. and less engine power potential ..
and in time .. the extra sooty e.smoke will clog up the turbo vane system
causing it to stick .. and be unable to move the turbo vanes ..

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Andy Warren · Jul 18, 2021

DeepWater said:
Hi all,

We’ve been working on the car this weekend.
Yesterday, we cleaned all of the excess diesel up, and changed the high pressure fuel pump regulator o rings, and replaced the injector leak off pipe, as well as changing the plastic t junctions for brass ones. This worked momentarily, but then went back to not starting again.

Today, we took the leak of hoses back off of the injectors, and noticed that when the ignition was set to the second position, injector number 4 was filling with diesel. So we took the top of the injector off and drilled through it. Then we put it back on and easily pulled the injector out with a slide hammer. We changed the injector for a working one off of a Rover 75, and all is now working. We have a happy Freelander that starts like it used to. I’ve run half a bottle of comma diesel magic through the tank, and now it seems a lot brisker, so all is good on that front.

I know this is an old threat, but, the car has now started making a high pitch whistling noise when accelerating. Is this likely to be turbo related? I can see that the screw from the air intake has rubbed on a hose, but I don’t think it’s gone all the way through. Could that still be the issue though?

Many thanks for all of your help!

Hi, glad you got the starting issue sorted. Mine had a whistle & small hole in the hose so I replaced it with a silicone item & then put an extra jubilee clip round the hose where it contacts the screw head to stop it rubbing through again.

DeepWater · Jul 19, 2021

Thanks everyone. Upon closer inspection, the jubilee clip for the short hose attached to the side of the egr wasn’t fitted properly, so I’ve reattached that. (Not sure how I didn’t spot it sooner!) I haven’t driven it yet, but hopefully that will sort my issue.

I’ll still be on the lookout for some silicone upgrades though, because then it’ll be one less thing to worry about!

Thank you so much for all of the help!

Freelander 1 Td4 turns over but won't start

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