Freelander 1 TD4 Turbo bolts

Hi, can anybody tell me please what type of socket fits the 3 bolts( that you access through the air filter box), to un-bolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold, I've got everything else off just not sure what to use to get these bolts undone (12mm bi hex socket seems to fit but there bloody tight so I didn't want to round anything off).

You have answered your own question, 12 m bi hex

Dodgy socket though on a tight bolt.

freelance said:

You have answered your own question, 12 m bi hex

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Hi thanks for that I will buy a good quality 12mm bi hex socket, I've always stuck to buying single hex sockets as they grip the flats of nuts/bolts so aren't as prone to rounding off the corners. Only started changing the thermostat housing when I noticed oil in the turbo/intercooler & hoses so thought I better get a recon turbo as I was half way there! Both jobs are a bit of a pig. Also stripping the FBH as this is only firing intermittently. O the joys of LR ownership.

GrumpyGel said:

Dodgy socket though on a tight bolt.

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Yeah socket is from the early 80's my first 1/2" set,( so your right old and worn out like me, ha ha (been on it for about a day & a half !)

you can get a set from machine mart if you are in the uk and if you need a new bolt they are £4 from LR as they are also high tensile

teddywood1 said:

you can get a set from machine mart if you are in the uk and if you need a new bolt they are £4 from LR as they are also high tensile

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Thanks for that, Its all back together now (today 13/11). I managed to get a decent Teng socket from my local motor factors & a new bolt £4.13 + vat from Rimmers. I think there must be an airlock in the cooling system as only half the radiator is getting hot, the bottom (rubber) hose & the metal coolent pipe that runs along the bottom of the engine & up to the thermostat remain cold, temp gauge goes to half way, heater seems to be working ok & all the other hoses inc those to the FBH are hot. Coolent is returning to the header tank. I used the bleed screw in the heater hose as I filled the system (very slowly) so I'm now wondering if the water pump is working as it should even though the temp gauge doesn't & never has, since I've owned it, gone above half way. I would love to know if I've missed something so if anyone can suggest anything it will be much appreciated.

If the engine isn't blowing it's coolant and the gauge doesn't go over half, then there's not much wrong with the cooling system.

Nodge68 said:

If the engine isn't blowing it's coolant and the gauge doesn't go over half, then there's not much wrong with the cooling system.

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Cheers for that. I've come to the conclusion it's probably running normal but the heater is so much better, the temp. gauge certainly rises quicker with the new thermostat housing & now the FBH is working, the gauge goes a 1/4 way up within a mile & within a gnats do da of 1/2 way after 2-3 miles even though the temp. in the mornings has been zero, lovely jubbly. I stripped & cleaned the FBH whilst I had the bumper off as it hasn't worked in the 18 mths. I've owned it. As others have said get a gasket set for it, as the gaskets will break when you strip it. I cleaned the water pump, burner/chamber, gauze & glow plug, had a butchers at the circuit board which looked ok & hey presto it now whistles away quite merrily. If you have one fitted that isn't working its worth investigating.