Td4 shudder with low throttle

Hi,
I've got a 05 plate Td4 that has developed a shudder when the throttle is depressed slightly. The shudder goes when pushing the throttle to accelerate, or backing off completely. It's annoying as I can no longer cruise at a set speed without shaking! It seems to happen regardless of speed, but doesn't seem so bad when the engine is cold- worse after a few miles.
I also get an engine warning light if I take it over 70. It flicks off when I back off again.
Any thoughts on what may be up?
Thanks

I also get an engine warning light if I take it over 70. It flicks off when I back off again.

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what happens if you floor it in 4th or 3rd gear ?
do the rpm ' hit a brick wall ' .. e.g won't go over 3000 rpm or so ?
if so .. the issue may be rear arch l.p. fuel pump .. and / or fuel filter related ..

try running some quality injector cleaner with your fuel ..
something like 'millers eco-max' ( available at halfords ) .. or similar ..

Any thoughts on what may be up?

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yeah .. lots .. ( i.e. could be a number of things )
any other symptoms .. ??
starting issues ? .. smokey exhaust ?? .. anything else ??
is the egr valve still fitted ? .. or has it been bypassed ?
vehicle history .. has the rear arch low pressure fuel pump ever been replaced .. ?
current mileage ? .. manual or auto gearbox ?
your sure the shudder is engine related ?

given the lateness of the hour etc etc ..
have a read through these :

td4 engine faults :
http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75faults.htm

about the 'maf' sensor :
http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75maf.htm

see if anything in those ring-a-bell ..

has the plug / socket connection to the fuel rail pressure sensor ever been examined .. for ..
grime - corrosion ? .. if not check that it's clean and corrosion free ..
( it only works on a small voltage .. and is critical for the smooth running of the td4 .. )

don't know IF this is related to your symptoms ..
this thread be about the turbo mechanism and a lack of power at / over 70 mph
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-lack-of-power-at-70mph-fixed.77147/
on your vehicle .. when were the turbo solenoid vacuum filter last changed ??

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Thanks for the reply hd3,
The car has done about 110,000 miles. Bought it in Sept this year from a 2nd hand car dealer, they told me that they'd serviced the car and replaced filters (it also has full serv history). However, I checked the air filter and it was very dirty. I replaced it, along with the crankcase breather (modified type) and turbo solenoid filter. I also removed the egr and replaced with blanking kit, and replaced the inter cooler hoses with silicone ones when I started feeling this shudder (no improvement).
I haven't had any issues with hitting brick walls/ loss of power.
I replaced the fuel filter yesterday- what a bas***d! I doubt it had been changed for a good few years as the cover bolts had rusted to the brackets- took me 6 hours (and snapped a pair of mole grips) to get the cover off! Managed to replace the filter anyway (and the cover bolts with stainless steel ones). Took it for a quick drive today and seemed like an improvement, but warning light still there over 70. Will test again tomorrow on a longer trip to assess shudder issue.
I'll get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the maf, IAT sensor, and high pressure fuel sensor connection as suggested. Will let you know if any of these work.
Also, it's an automatic box. Could the issue be auto oil related? Might be the next thing to look at if none of the above works.

hi there symptoms sound the same as mine also an auto been doing it for a while seems to disappear when i use the manual mode probably could do with an oil change at 208000 miles i suspect its due

Also, it's an automatic box. Could the issue be auto oil related?

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maybe .. the auto box does seem to be sensitive to oil levels and oil changes
'n how the oil change is done .. and there are related solenoids that cause issues as well ..
But .. that's going by from what i've read on these pages ..

i've no 1st hand experience with the auto gearbox's ..

to get some advice re the auto-box and running issues ..
either one of LZ's auto-box 'experts' might see this an answer ..
or .. you start a new thread ..
e.g " is this an auto gearbox issue " .. and link that to this thread ..
or copy your post to the new thread ..

and / or .. use the 'search' button a top right of page ..
e.g. type in "auto gearbox problems" .. or similar .. 'n see what comes up ..

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regarding electrical connections .. 'contralube 770' is good stuff ..
it prevents corrosion .. and helps retain a good connection ..
just smear it on .. it will not short out connections ..
( http://contralube.com/contralube-770/ )

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be a download .pdf file in this thread .. about the td4 engine ( bmw m47r )
written up for rover cars .. most of the info be the same for the td4
e.g. it doesn't cover the variable vane turbo ..
and the low pressure fuel system be like the very early freelanders ..
i.e. lift pump inside fuel tank ..
the .pdf file does cover most instances that would cause the dash board engine light to go 'on' ..

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-m47r-engine-pdf-file.288724/#post-3564507

here : http://www.3.je/m47r_diesel.pdf
i just tried it and it downloads fine ( on my comp. )

half thought a faulty go-pedal sensor might cause a shudder ..
but they seem to be extremely rare .. going by threads hereabouts ..
though .. not unheard of ..

i guess one question would be ..
is the 'shudder' and dashboard warning lamp at 70mph .. related to one fault ..
or there be two causes that need dealing with ..

oops missed the bit about the warning light on the dash i don't get that just the shudder . i did change the throttle sensor a while back and it worked for a while but its back so probably is the auto box

Well I cleaned the connectors on all of the injectors, maf sensor, IAT sensor, camshaft sensor and fuel rail sensor- none looked corroded (I guess the fuel rail sensor is the one on the right hand end of the common rail, behind the egr? Not on the left of the rail as stated in the Haynes manual). Also did an engine oil and filter change (not got oil for auto box yet). No improvements. The engine is actually getting progressively worse- quite lumpy when idling, worse when warm.
I disconnected the maf sensor to see if this made an improvement, but the engine wouldn't start, and engine light flicked on. Plugged it back in and started fine again (engine light went out after 3 starts); so guess that rules out maf!?
No issues with starting hot or cold. Mpg does seem lower-used to get about 450/tank, but just had to fill up after 380.

Is it the TD4 that has the injector wiring harness issue? ie it develops faults and needs replacing.

I think it's the fuel regulator harness that's the common fault, not injector, but could be wrong.
The harnesses all look ok. How would I go about testing this (other than visual)?
Can I idle the engine with the fuel rail sensor disconnected? I supposed I'd be looking for a lumpier idle to confirm that the sensor and loom are ok and rule it out as a fault.

I have found a fault source (thanks to suggestions here) - the turbo solenoid vacuum valve. I didn't think I had been losing power at 70, but I had been backing off the throttle when seeing the MIL, so missed the symptom. I took it out for a stretch and tried to continue accelerating through the MIL, and did indeed hit a wall. So I took the vacuum tube off the turbo solenoid, and tried breaking 70 again. It did it without MIL or brick wall. Will be ordering a replacement vacuum valve!
Another issue I've noticed is a slight exhaust leak in the engine bay. I am sure it's coming from the egr cooler or its pipes. I had blanked off the egr, and wonder whether an increased exhaust pressure in the cooler/pipes has resulted in a leak. Is this known to occur ? Has anyone had any experience with blanking off the egr at the exhaust manifold? I had a look to try get at it (from above and below), but can't figure out how!

got my egr blanked off and i to had a leak mine leaked from the clamps that hold the cooler on to the egr blank new clamps and a very small amount of gumgum exhaust sealer and no more leak hope this helps

+1 same leak, same cause

Update: I changed the turbo solenoid vac valve and this cured the MIL at 70. I put on a new egr cooler hose clamp, and that seemed to have helped running. However, the shuddering and intermittent lumpy idle is still there. The symptoms are the same as described in https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ccelerating-and-occasional-lumpy-idle.203024/ which turned out to be an intermittent injector fault, so I think I'll get the injectors tested as a next step.

Further update.. I drove it to work today, and the smoking engine issue is now noticeable and worse than before. I can see exhaust spewing from the location arrowed in the pic (below the visible pipes) (image taken from google for illustration only). Looking through the nearside wheel arch, the exhaust appears to be coming from an area in front of the exhaust pipe, not the pipe itself. Whats in this area that would carry exhaust?

For info, the fault causing the shudder (and subsequent lack of power and lumpy idle) was a faulty injector (injector 1, identified by pulling the plug when idling). The engine smoke was a result of a small split in the flexi section of the front exhaust downpipe. It was blowing forward making it seem like it was coming from further forward in the engine bay.
I took it to a garage for the work (as I didn't fancy getting stuck part way through removal of a seized injector (came out OK in the end) and the downpipe to cat bolts were rusted pretty bad so had to be drilled out and new bolts welded on).
All ended well!