Freelander 1 TD4 Refurbishment - Finished

I mentioned that I would get around to this and as Jeremy Clarkson said when he got fired, "I have suddenly become unbusy'!!

So, my fabulous 170k TD4 2002 which has now had a new engine, recon gearbox and regular maintenance was getting very tired. Bit bouncy, bit rusty in the underside component department and so time for a refresh.

Refurb to be done in 2 bits. Front and then rear.
Yesterday started on front. Stripped out wheel arch liners, replaced all fittings with stainless, cleaned 18 years of grime out from under liners ready for the application of underbody schultz. Removed front bumper and fitted spot light brackets and wiring.

Today, removed: underpan, front brakes, hubs, struts, wishbones, front subframe and antiroll bar plus links. Replaced track rod ends ready to refit. Used a digital vernier on the threads to retain the tracking set up.

Next is further clean and spray, then rebuild using new or refurb components.

Only problem so far is lhs drive shaft seized into hub, so will use a spare drive shaft to make progress and soak the old one.

Large pile of worn and rusty bits is being formed in the corner of the workshop.

Taken some photos, will post shortly and update the thread as it progresses.

I'm sure you'll have it looking like new Andy.

I have an ever expanding pile of scrap iron here too, especially now the wife has caught the Fiat 500 bug. I've been replacing brakes, shocks and loads of interior fittings too. I do prefer the Freelander for design and component robustness though.

Took this lot off:

Cleaned, rust killed and degreased underside front wings - before:


and after - LHS hub still fitted as it is stuck, not even the trusty puller will remove it, so will drain gearbox, remove complete and sort it that way.


All items to be refitted have been stripped, cleaned and painted in zinc rich, cold galvanising paint.
Tomorrow is the refit of the shiny bits.
Couple of notes to anyone doing similar jobs, with an automatic, the gear selector cable runs over the front subframe, but under the anti-roll bar so the two items cannot be removed together they have to be separated.
To access the LH strut top, the manual says to remove the engine fuse box. This is o.k, but doesn't leave enough space to remove the plastic cover on the top of the strut nuts (probably an insulator for the fuseable link bolted under the fuse box!!) I managed to bend it around and get it out and remove the strut nuts, but putting it back will require removal of the 'E' box next to the fuse box. A job to be done when on wheels and back on the ground.

Oh, knocked up some lamp brackets and mounted them while the front bumper was off, some left over square section allows a filler up to grill slot height, then a counter-bored protrusion allows for a lamp mount to be hidden from view and prying spanners !!

Simply drilled and tapped the ali front beam, bolts are inside the bottom rectangular section.

Pleased with the way it has all come apart, some of these bolts untouched since built.
New shocks, brake hoses, discs, pads, top swivels and lower arms. Refurb and powder coated springs, hubs, back plates, anti-roll bar and front subframe.

See where we get to tomorrow afternoon.

Both sides now look like this:

Just anti-roll bar, subframe and bottom wishbones to fit then covers back on.
Very tight clearance to replace strut top nuts on LHS, wish I'd removed all electronics! Managed to do it, but very fiddly.

Top job, looking good

Looks great. I love seeing shiny new bits going on!

Nearly there............

Anti-roll bar and ancillaries connected up.

Powder coated subframe and anti-roll bar / fittings.
Checker plate (easy release) sump guard.
Just front bumper and wheel arch liners to be fitted then torque front suspension bolts when vehicle on the ground.

Paused. Step daughter sent home from special needs school with Covid outbreak.

Now we have the bloody bug and feel pants.

Hope to resume service ASAP.

Hope anyone else out there suffering is improving.

andyfreelandy said:

Paused. Step daughter sent home from special needs school with Covid outbreak.

Now we have the bloody bug and feel pants.

Hope to resume service ASAP.

Hope anyone else out there suffering is improving.

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that Andy.

I'm still playing Russian roulette with it myself. I unfortunately have to continue working, although on reduced capacity, but I can't afford to take it home to my girls, who have CF.

Hope you and the rest of the family get over it soon.

andyfreelandy said:

Paused. Step daughter sent home from special needs school with Covid outbreak.

Now we have the bloody bug and feel pants.

Hope to resume service ASAP.

Hope anyone else out there suffering is improving.

Click to expand...

Take care sir. And look after your lot.

Look after yourself and the family Andy

@andyfreelandy Sorry to hear you've got it, take care and god speed; you too @Nodge68 - Don't know what it is you do work wise, but obviously we'll be hoping you manage to keep your exposure to a minimum and remain virus free?

andyfreelandy said:

Paused. Step daughter sent home from special needs school with Covid outbreak.

Now we have the bloody bug and feel pants.

Hope to resume service ASAP.

Hope anyone else out there suffering is improving.

Click to expand...

So sorry to hear that.

Nice job

andyfreelandy said:

Nearly there............

View attachment 204394 Anti-roll bar and ancillaries connected up.

View attachment 204395 Powder coated subframe and anti-roll bar / fittings.
View attachment 204396 Checker plate (easy release) sump guard.
Just front bumper and wheel arch liners to be fitted then torque front suspension bolts when vehicle on the ground.

Click to expand...

Car still up in the air one week on !
Felt like taking a few photos today, energy levels are very low, need to tighten hubs to 300 lb ft but not even got the puff to lift the torque wrench yet !!
So the wheel arch liners got put back before the bug hit and I got the spotlights onto the new brackets and the bumper back on.

Hopefully next week will be better, I think we are over the worst - really unpleasant

Wheel arch liners back in:

Spotlights fitted and wired, not easy to take a frontal shot due to space constraints.

Energy levels will return - hope they will anyway !

It's looking good Andy, but seriously, chill and recouperate, the freelander will still be there for you to do it when you get better. But if you don't properly rest and recouperate, you might not be able to do it...

That said, it is a really nice build and its coming together nicely. I personally prefer the the OE rubber A Bar and the spotlight "Pods" over typical spotlights, but yours are super neat, and I love the fact you can't see the wiring. Is the wiring channeled through the brackets?

That’s absolutely a brilliant job and a credit to you , but Jayridium is right you need to rest and recouperate the car will still be there afterwards I wish you and your family well and look forward to seeing some pictures of finished car when you are fully recovered .

andyfreelandy said:

Car still up in the air one week on !
Felt like taking a few photos today, energy levels are very low, need to tighten hubs to 300 lb ft but not even got the puff to lift the torque wrench yet !!
So the wheel arch liners got put back before the bug hit and I got the spotlights onto the new brackets and the bumper back on.

Hopefully next week will be better, I think we are over the worst - really unpleasant

Wheel arch liners back in:
View attachment 205311
Spotlights fitted and wired, not easy to take a frontal shot due to space constraints.
View attachment 205313 View attachment 205314
Energy levels will return - hope they will anyway !

Click to expand...

Wishing you a speedy recovery,Andy.

Yah, torqued up my wishbones yesterday with car having been driven out and back then onto ramps for the tightening.

Been out to get essential supplies and the difference over bumps and on corners is amazing, more solid, quieter, brakes better.

However, unsurprisingly the steering wheel is a tad off centre. I am going to try to check the alignment and then centre by small adjustments by using 2 lines of string with small blocks to set to the wheel rim. I always have the front wheels set to parallel which is just within spec and has given no tyre wear problems over many thousands of miles.

We'll see how it goes!! I use a vernier measure on each track rod thread length when I change the track rod ends, but clearly changing everything together has made the tolerances show up!!

Thats great news Andy, I'm glad you are back on your feet and that the vehicle is rewarding your efforts.