Td4 Power issue

Hi guys,
my 01 freelander I've just bought worked fine till it hit 3000rpm/70mph 4th & 5th gears seem to be the problem just lose power & even when I slow & go down to 1st gear still got the problem tilI turn the engine off. Once restarted seems to reset itself till I hit 3000rpm/70mph again.

Read a few things so put on a new turbo breather filter & new fuel filter, it's in the engine bay not under the rear wheel arch. Hoped this would cure it but no.

Any suggestions appreciated, I'm hoping and don't think it's the turbo as great till the dreaded 3000 rpm

Thanks in advance fellas

Paul

HI Paul.
Check a few of these below they may help. look to boost solenoid
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/11647957/?q=Low+power+TD4&o=relevance&c[node]=9

Check the boost pipes for splits or holes where they rub on bolts. Sounds like a boost leak to me.
However it could also be a low pressure fuel supply problem.

nodge 68 do you have a picture of the layout of the vacuum pipes I have got an terrible feeling my son in law may have trapped mine when putting the inlet manifold back on.

teddywood1 said:

nodge 68 do you have a picture of the layout of the vacuum pipes I have got an terrible feeling my son in law may have trapped mine when putting the inlet manifold back on.

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The vac pipe to the turbo solenoid is visible in this picture. You can see it's located between the oil filler cap and injector harness. So it's pretty difficult to trap, unless it's incorrectly routed.

I see there is another vacuum valve there , that were I though it was trapped I can not recall this on my previous freeland , the reason I said I thought it was trapped, I took the pipe of the egr and it just held onto the end of my finger and I can not see how it activates the egr with no real vacuum.

teddywood1 said:

I see there is another vacuum valve there , that were I though it was trapped I can not recall this on my previous freeland , the reason I said I thought it was trapped, I took the pipe of the egr and it just held onto the end of my finger and I can not see how it activates the egr with no real vacuum.

Click to expand...

The extra pipe you see that is running parallel to the vac pipe is the injector spill pipe.

The EGR vac pipe will only have a small or no vacuum, unless the EGR is actually being used. This doesn't happen it idling speed.

I still have my EGR in, and the wife was revving the engine I would have expected a little more than just staying on my finger.

Arctic2 said:

HI Paul.
Check a few of these below they may help. look to boost solenoid
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/11647957/?q=Low+power+TD4&o=relevance&c[node]=9

Click to expand...

Thanks........ that’s me busy this weekend, lol just bought a caravan was a nightmare towing it home

Sorry for high jacking this thred

back to square 1 again fine until I stop at a junction then press the go pedal and it crawls and has nearly got me into a crash then it up and goes.

Changed turbo breather filter on mine & fuel filter, looking at the fuel pump next. Soon as I hit 70 or earlier going up hill Power vanishes & slow down. If I turn engine off & restart fine until 70 again.

First Freelander even though an old 51 plate, loved it but slowly this is killing the dream

@Paul1970
you've maybe seen this ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-lack-of-power-at-70mph-fixed.77147/

cutting out at around 3k rpm is often a low pressure fuel pump issue
don't the older td4's have a lift pump in the fuel tank ??
( as opposed to the l.p. fuel pump under the rear wheel arch in later models )
my l.p. fuel pump failed at 70k miles ..
same/similar issue .. revs hit a brick wall at 3k rpm .. ..

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as anybody else had this problem I can not seem to sort it I am beginning to think it may be the accelerator peddle the fly by wire but as it does not do it all the time I am at a loss.

HD3. Are you saying the one under the bonnet is high pressure & the one in the tank is low pressure. The one in the tank is considerably cheaper so is it that one or am I best off starting with that one? Thanks

Paul1970 said:

HD3. Are you saying the one under the bonnet is high pressure & the one in the tank is low pressure. The one in the tank is considerably cheaper so is it that one or am I best off starting with that one? Thanks

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The early TD4, up to some point in 2002 had two low pressure fuel pumps. One was in the tank, with a second L P pump under the bonnet, along with the filter.
Towards the middle of 2002, the tank and under bonnet pump got replaced by a single pump in the rear wheel arch.

Would anyone recommend if I have the 51 Reg with 2 fuel pumps, if possible removing both & putting the upgraded single one in the engine bay???

Is this feasible or best to stick with the two?

if possible removing both & putting the upgraded single one in the engine bay???

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not sure that would work well ..
i.e. there must be a reason that a pump is located near the fuel tank
( whether it be a lift pump in the tank .. or the l.p.pump adjacent to the tank ..
( and the latter's height relative to the fuel tank
i would think that using a single lp.pump in the engine bay
might have issues .. in that when 'off' .. the fuel in the line
might drain back to the fuel tank .. so when restarting .. the pump
would be sucking air .. don't know .. just thinking aloud really ..

what happens is that the electric motor simply wears out
and they're not repairable .. as they're sealed ..
no idea about the older in-tank lift pump

in anycase .. those pumps usually last about 70 to 100k miles ..
cheap ones less ..

when the low pressure pump weakens or fails
the ecu will limit rpm in order not to damage the high pressure pump

i don't think the older in-tank lift pump is too hard to replace
i think it's got at thru the rear floor .. ( not 100% sure on that )
try a forum search .. top right of page

here's one search result:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/12801029/?q=td4+lift+pump+replacement&o=relevance&c[node]=9

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@teddywood1

as anybody else had this problem I can not seem to sort it I am beginning to think it may be the accelerator peddle the fly by wire but as it does not do it all the time I am at a loss.

Click to expand...

have you driven it a few times since replacing the parts ?
i've noticed every time i've messed with the induction system
i.e. air filter change .. or alternative ducting as i did ..
that it takes a trip or two ( engine on .. driven .. engine off for 15 min or so )
for the engine to run better ..
be as if the ecu has to do some recalibration regarding the airflow

i start to get some hesitation once the air-filter has done 6k miles or so

when i changed ( modified ) the air intake ducting ..
it didn't even want to start straight up as it normally does
it struggled at first .. then on next start up went back to it's normal good self

i can't comment re the go-pedal as not had any problems with that ..
but .. that pedal sensor has two circuits .. and the ecu compares the two

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@Paul1970
here's a replacement procedure for the in-tank lift pump :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/in-tank-fuel-pump-replacement.179221/#post-1835499
looks like some care needs to be taken when replacing the under bonnet bits
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