Td4 not starting.

charloa2005Member
My Freelander 2004 Td4 lately had experienced lack of power with the engine light comes on after passing 2500 - 3000 rpm. I decided to clean the maf sensor with brake cleaner. When I had started the engine, it went high revs upon start up and I switched off the engine and took the key out of the barrel with the engine still running. It went dead after approx 15 seconds. Now it won t start, cranking only. Is it the engine immobilizer that is preventing the engine to start?
Have checked cam and crank sensors, can confirm that they are good. Diagnostics computer saying fuel pressure faulty. Its not the case.........Checked also transponder on the key....good.Fuel pump underwheel arc works and if you turn the key to pos.2 it works for 1 minute until the timer will switched it off. Apart from that, it seems that there is no voltage to injectors. Any hints????

is there an echo in here, lol


https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-not-starting.326335/

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-won-t-start.326049/#post-4187875

Does it have an impact sensor on fuel line ?

Check the regulator on the HPFP and change the O-rings minimal cost £5.90 link below, about an hours work if it is your first time removing the regulator, also try spraying the wiring connector on the fuel rail with electrical cleaner, not brake cleaner that is for discs etc,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Arctic2 said:

Check the regulator on the HPFP and change the O-rings minimal cost £5.90 link below, about an hours work if it is your first time removing the regulator, also try spraying the wiring connector on the fuel rail with electrical cleaner, not brake cleaner that is for discs etc,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-Tourer-Fuel-Pump-Pressure-Regulator-seal-kit-fits-Bosch-0281002480/282536730853?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

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I'd already suggested that on another thread about this same fault by the same OP.

Nodge68 said:

The high pressure fuel pump regulator O rings being split will cause no pressure in the fuel rail.

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Nodge68 said:

I'd already suggested that on another thread about this same fault by the same OP.

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hope u didn’t mind me saying , also noticed that , gets replies then starts a new thread with the same original question lol

groundhog day , lol

Nodge68 said:

I'd already suggested that on another thread about this same fault by the same OP.

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Hi Nodge
just realised that maybe the OP needs to take heed and try your suggestion, so he & those trying to help can move forward on the subject

Arctic2 said:

Hi Nodge
just realised that maybe the OP needs to take heed and try your suggestion, so he & those trying to help can move forward on the subject

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sounds like u guys are banging ur heads against the wall

according to the OP's 1st post on the subject..
seems that 'no-start' happened after brake cleaner was sprayed onto the maf
( and revs climbed out of control till the cleaning fluid was gone from the intake )

in addition to prev. ideas posted ..
i'd disconnect the maf sensor 'n see if it starts
( i.e. maf might be totaly 'effed
( like .. no signal at all
also ..
maybe the rpm surge damaged something ..
like the hp.pump ??

maybe i missed something in all those reverberating posts / threads :-/

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hd3 said:

according to the OP's 1st post on the subject..
seems that 'no-start' happened after brake cleaner was sprayed onto the maf
( and revs climbed out of control till the cleaning fluid was gone from the intake )

in addition to prev. ideas posted ..
i'd disconnect the maf sensor 'n see if it starts
( i.e. maf might be totaly 'effed
( like .. no signal at all
also ..
maybe the rpm surge damaged something ..
like the hp.pump ??

maybe i missed something in all those reverberating posts / threads :-/

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Click to expand...

must admit , never heard of brake cleaner being used on a Maf , now i wonder if it self destructed ,

Changed the hp fuel pressor regulator.....no luck neighter. Still no current to injectors.

Any fault codes to go on?

Have you checked to make sure the crank pulley is turning when cranking the engine? How fast did the engine race when it ran on its own? The TD4 crank a bit weak and has been known to break on occasion.

Hi
As hd3 said if the engine has revved high on brake cleaner, then this ignites at a lower ignition point and burns hotter than derv, so it may have burned the tips of the injectors.
On cranking the fuel is then poured straight in to the cylinders or diverted through the spill pipes. If at engine cranking speed the common rail is not able to pressurize to the desired amount for operating, then the ECU won't operate the injectors.
Live data of the fuel rail pressures and rate of degradation back to zero should give a clue
Spill rates should also be checked.

Thanks for the info. So its better to pull out the injectors and check....

Not sure if events have moved on since the last post ??
You had a code for fuel pressure faulty and then commented that: "it isn't the case" - This is for the fuel rail pressure - How do you know what the common rail fuel pressure is?? Are you able to use diagnostic equipment to read this whilst cranking?? I have a feeling that it's the low pressure side that you are getting confused with.

There is a kit for testing the spill amounts from the injectors. It's a series of small bottles and clear tubes. Carefully disconnect the leak off pipes from the injectors and replace with the tubes in to the top of the injectors. Then crank the engine over whilst watching for diesel traveling along the tubes to the bottles.
You should get a small steady flow, equal across all injectors. A rush of diesel down a tube then this indicates a faulty injector. No flow at all means diesel is not pressurizing the injectors.
Are you seeing smoke from the exhaust during cranking?? If so, then you have diesel entering the cylinders whilst not being commanded by the ECU (No injector voltage)

Brake cleaner is a good chemical to remove the contaminates which may have built up on the hot wire of the MAF or for washing away contaminates from a MAP sensor. - (Brake cleaner is cheap and is readily available in automotive workshops and many manufacturers have their aerosols dual labeled Brake/Electrical cleaner) But, as you now know DON'T SPRAY IT IN TO THE AIR INTAKE - It should be - Remove spray and gently air dry before reinstalling.

My personal opinion is never use brake cleaner on the MAF sensor hot wire, or any MAP sensor, only use electrical isopropyl switch cleaner or similar,

Thanks for all the replies.Replaced the under wheel arch pump and it has not changed anything. Next step I will replace the high pressure pump as it seems that its not pumping the pressure needed for starting. I have read that if the common rail pressure is not sufficient, current will not flow to injectors. It tries to start with easystart, but as soon it is consumed it will stop again. Tried to remove the low pressure sensor electrical connector and crank the engine. No luck neighter. If the low pressure sensor is screwed, does this will cut the supply for the injectors??

Before changing the HPFP check the regulator O-rings first if you feel it is the HPFP as the O-rings can split. fix is £5.90
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I know your car was experiencing problems prior to your faux pas and even when up and running again you may still have an issue to investigate.
However, even without diagnostic equipment, advise has been offered from myself and others, which it appears from your posts that you've paid little attention to.
May be if you take a deep breath and read the thread from the start, perhaps a lot of the guess-work can be eliminated.

Problem solved. It was the HP pump. It seems that the shaft had sheared as it turns freely by hand. Swapped the pump and ...vroom!