Freelander 1 Td4 Mpg

Hi,
Done a bit of searching but can't see any answers that fit my situation.

I'm struggling with mpg since I've owned the vehicle a few months. It's a 2004 TD4. I've changed the air filter, oil and filter, oil breather with the newer version and I have done the seals on the high pressure fuel pump. I have also bought a reconditioned vcu and fitted an egr blank.
I can't feel any of the brakes getting particularly warm so I don't believe there is any binding. Is there anything else I can look into for this?

I'm getting around 25mpg with correct tyre pressures and not driving excessively.

Thanks

Few things I would look at.
Oil grade: 5w40 full synthetic or 10w40 semi
Turbo: check vnt, boost and make sure is running tip top any under boost will cause this, the solenoid is known to do porkies
Tyres: all the same?
Injectors: perhaps getting them tested
Check all air hoses and check for smoke usually there should be black smoke if overfueling. You should get around 35 outside and around 25 indeed inside.

When I removed my egr valve the engine felt more responsive and poss helped the mpg. I get around 430 miles to the tank.

Yes worth a look at egr if stuck open.

seems a very low mpg for a td4, I keep a constant check on mine and it averages around 44 mpg during the year, I do not push the car hard. I thought the makers mpg figures were around 40mpg so it looks as though you have a problem. Does it smoke, black exhaust would indicate excessive fueling ,is there a leak on the fuel system

J_D said:

When I removed my egr valve the engine felt more responsive and poss helped the mpg. I get around 430 miles to the tank.

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That is because the egr was faulty not that the car runs better without egr

J_D said:

When I removed my egr valve the engine felt more responsive and poss helped the mpg. I get around 430 miles to the tank.

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The owners manual says the tank holds 55 litres (but I can get 60 litres in mine). So if your doing 430 miles & then putting 55 litres in, which is 12.11 gallons that's 35.5 mpg. If you are only getting 25mpg after putting 55l's in then your tank range would be 302 miles.
I would fill it up then drive it until the low fuel light comes on then fill it up again & see how many litres it takes then divide the litres by 4.54 to covert to gallons then divide the miles by the converted gallons.
Mines a facelift TD4 auto with a synergy 2a box with dash eco switch & on a run I get about 40 mpg & round town about 31, what I have noticed is over winter around town mpg went down to about 27 although the FBH was cutting in quite a bit.
Double check & let us know how you get on.
Did the air filter you fitted have the sock over it? (genuine & some after markets do) it would be worth removing the sock as it's only really for dusty climates & helps the engine breath a bit better.

Hi,

Thanks for the replies.

I have fitted an egr blank already which hasn't seemed to help, no smoke at all even when putting the foot down! I have a look at the turbo actuator. It feels stiff but I don't know of it is meant to be stiff as a spring return? Doesn't feel as though there is much movement but again I don't know what movement there is meant to be. I have uploaded a video below (excuse the grunting) does it look about righ?




If it is a little siezed what are my options? Can I wd40 the actuator? It felt more like that being stiff than the turbo side but I could be wrong. If its the turbo is the only option to remove? I haven't checked the solenoid yet does anyone have a diagram for the ports on this? What size pipe is used for the solenoid? I work somewhere that sells pneumatic piping so would be worth replacing.

Thabks for the responses.

Sorry Kinger032007 I've just noticed it is J.D getting 430 miles to a tank not yourself Got the posts mixed up.

110tim said:

seems a very low mpg for a td4, I keep a constant check on mine and it averages around 44 mpg during the year, I do not push the car hard. I thought the makers mpg figures were around 40mpg so it looks as though you have a problem. Does it smoke, black exhaust would indicate excessive fueling ,is there a leak on the fuel system

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Hi,

Thanks for the response. There's no smoke at all from it surprisingly! There was a fuel leak from the high pressure pump but I have replaced the seals and touch wood not leaking anymore! Does the heater use much? I think mine is always cutting in regardless of the weather. I'm not really sure on how it operates and how it is meant to but regardless of the temp its on when I start the vehicle. Does that use much fuel?

Thanks

It cuts in along with the heated mirrors (if fitted) at 4 degrees or below, there's a sensor behind the plastic front bumper on the drivers side, see pic. You can't get to it without removing the bumper. I can't remember the exact figures but he FBH runs for a max of 30 mins of which it cuts down to half it's max once a certain water temp has been reached but I don't think they use that much.

The actuator is driven by a small solenoid that is known to fail very silently. And it also does look a bit stiff.

Andy Warren said:

It cuts in along with the heated mirrors (if fitted) at 4 degrees or below

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The heated mirrors on the FL1 are hot all the time the engine is running, even in summer.

The FBH is controlled independently, and is its own separate system, only activating when the outside temperature is below 5°C, with an engine temperature below 75°C.

PRO said:

The actuator is driven by a small solenoid that is known to fail very silently. And it also does look a bit stiff.

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Do you know if you can lubricate the actuator or put some Wd40 at the base or would the cause issues with the vac line? Looks like it could be a pig to replace with the limited space.
Thanks

Doubt that will do anything. However replacing the turbo on td4 is not such a big job, I did it and check the guide here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...lace-turbo-guide-without-removing-ird.349546/
But that only when you are certain is the turbo.

Nodge68 said:

The heated mirrors on the FL1 are hot all the time the engine is running, even in summer.

The FBH is controlled independently, and is its own separate system, only activating when the outside temperature is below 5°C, with an engine temperature below 75°C.

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That's what I like every days a school day I can understand the extra cost of putting a separate mirror heating switch in that's why I thought or I'd read somewhere the mirror heating was connected to the ambient temp. sensor for the FBH as I knew it was connected to the fr. or rr. heated screens.
On another note did you have a chance to dig out the FBH wiring/timer info/link ?
Hope all is going well.

I've never seen a car with heated mirror switch but I'm not that old only 36

Andy Warren said:

On another note did you have a chance to dig out the FBH wiring/timer info/link ?
Hope all is going well

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I actually found some of my original wiring diagrams recently.
I must remember to post them, when I find them again.
All is well, just busy with non LR stuff right now.

PRO said:

I've never seen a car with heated mirror switch but I'm not that old only 36

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VW vehicles with power fold mirrors, have a mirror heater position on the switch.

Hi,

I've got a little clip of the actuator movement with the engine running which appears to move a little freer than with me hands.

Does this look about right for the movement or should it be more?



Kind of at my wits end trying to find out what is causing such low mog. Could something on the 4wd system cause drag meaning a lower mog without any other tell tale signs?

Apreciate the help!

Thanks

Dragging brakes will cause poor MPG, although dropping it 50% would literally make the brakes smoke.

There must be something else causing it. Is there any smoke from the exhaust?