TD4 gear change difficulties

I've got a '56 Freelander 1 with about 150,000 miles on. The clutch and DMF were replaced, for the second time, about five months ago.

More recently, it has become a bit of a fight to change gear. First is worst, then second, sometimes third, hardly ever fourth or fifth; with reverse sometimes hit and miss.

Googling around, and reading this forum etc, I see a lot of references to slave cylinder bracket fatigue/ failure - but can't see whether that is the 1.8, the TD4, or something that applies to both. Ditto leaking hydraulics.

Could someone please clarify for me, plus any suggestions as to what the issue could be would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Jack.

First of all welcome, as you mention DMF I assume you have a TD4.
If the master cylinder hasn't been replaced then it probably needs to be but can you confirm, was the DMF replaced both times? I'd be shocked if it was as most DMF's will last 200k plus. I have heard of companies that replace DMF's whether they need to or not just to make more money.
Also you have connecting rods that might be loose/warn so worth checking them.

Oh and slave brackets are on 1.8K and 2.0L cars. The TD4 has the slave inside the gearbox bell housing.

Thanks.

It is a TD4. The DMF was done twice - both about 75K miles. I've read conflicting reports about the need: some people say they're good for two clutches, others that the labour cost is so high when doing the clutch, you might as well get it done while they're in there.

I can check whether the master cylinder was replaced when it goes in shortly.

By asking that, are you saying the bracket issue is a red herring/ one for the 1.8?

Cheers,

Jack.

The DMF can be checked for play when the gearbox is off. Replacing it at 75K is extremely unusual but I guess if you are doing a lot of heavy towing (hence the very short life of the clutch) then maybe it was warn.
I replaced my clutch at around 130k after I bought the car and the DMF was fine. The clutch is now engaging very low and I put that down to a cheap aftermarket master cylinder. My master failed as I was trying to bleed the clutch after replacing it. If you need a new master I'd recommend OEM from a Land Rover or reputable supplier only.
Yes bracket is 1.8 or 2.0L only.

Thanks for that. It has humped some weight about in its time - given the shonky reputation they have in some quarters, it's been a great old bus for us.

One more question if I may: is the master cylinder replacement an epic, get-the-gearbox-out massive labour job; or relatively straightforward?

Thanks again.

Jack.

JackGriffin1933 said:

Thanks for that. It has humped some weight about in its time - given the shonky reputation they have in some quarters, it's been a great old bus for us.

One more question if I may: is the master cylinder replacement an epic, get-the-gearbox-out massive labour job; or relatively straightforward?

Thanks again.

Jack.

Click to expand...

No, the master is on engine side of the bulkhead just above the clutch pedal. It should be a straight forward job to replace for a mechanic with the correct gear but like I said, do not buy aftermarket or you may regret it. If I was driving our car all the time I would have replaced it again with OEM but SWMBO doesn't even notice the low bite point on the clutch as she was a hockey player so has strong legs.

Many thanks - most helpful, and appreciated.

Just a quick one to say that thanks to the advice above, the car was quickly and easily fettled, and driving very nicely again.

Appreciated.

Cheers,

Jack.

Great news, thanks for letting us know.