Freelander 1 Td4 fuel pump running continuosly!!

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whitelander75

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Southampton
Hi can anyone help me with my freelander td4 2002 low pressure fuel pump problem please? the low pressure fuel pump was running continuosly after start up.Changed pump and filter but no change?

Pump just keeps on running after start up I've checked for leeks replaced pump and filter still the same thing happens starting to do my head in. Has anyone had the same issue any pointers would be really helpful thanks in advance Mark


Apr 25, 2018
 
Hi Nodge68 thanks for your reply
the low pressure fuel pump used to come on for about 45 seconds when ignition was turned on then it would cut off.
Recently I noticed the pump started getting louder and running continuosly also car would hold back a bit on motorway so I changed the fuel filter no difference changed the low pressure fuel pump still no change I can't see any leaks anywhere checked for fault codes nothing I'm just worried the pump might burn itself out.
 
Just having a little fun :D

We weren’t sure what you meant - you said the pump runs continuously after start-up, which generally means a running engine.

With the key at position II, the pump should run for a short while and cut out, and yours is not cutting out. First thing to rule out is a stuck fuel pump relay. This is in the engine compartment fusebox. Swap it for a similar one nearby and see if the pump now cuts out after an interval.
 
Thanks guys very funny anyhow cheers for getting back to me really appreciate it I wil try a different relay in the morning and let you know how I got on thankyou.
 
Hi Nodge68 thanks for your reply
the low pressure fuel pump used to come on for about 45 seconds when ignition was turned on then it would cut off.
Recently I noticed the pump started getting louder and running continuosly also car would hold back a bit on motorway so I changed the fuel filter no difference changed the low pressure fuel pump still no change I can't see any leaks anywhere checked for fault codes nothing I'm just worried the pump might burn itself out.

The low pressure fuel pump will run the whole time the engine is running, that's normal. With the ignition on and the engine off, it will run for about 45 seconds after the pressure exceeds a minimum threshold.

A noisy pump is down to pump wear or a low quality pump. It can also be noisy if there's an air lock in the pump feed pipe.
 
Afternoon all so tryed different relay as suggested but still not cutting out after interval.with key in position ll it just keeps going for about two minutes then it stops but as soon as you turn key to position lll and start the engine it kicks straight back in again but at a more high pitch level and keeps going until engine is switched off.
any ideas anyone please
Thanks in advance
Mark x
 
still not cutting out after interval.with key in position ll it just keeps going for about two minutes then it stops

This is a contradiction. You say it’s not cutting out, then say it stops after two minutes. That might be a bit long (see below).

as you turn key to position lll and start the engine it kicks straight back in again but at a more high pitch level and keeps going until engine is switched off.

*Deep breath* THIS IS NORMAL! The fuel pump has to run for the engine to work... The higher pitch is because, with the engine running, system voltage is higher.

I just don’t get what you’re asking. If your pump is noisy, what brand did you replace it with? Use a LR genuine one (Pierburg, I think). An aftermarket pump is often noisy and may be failing to develop the right pressure, hence the prolonged prime.
 
but still not cutting out after interval.with key in position ll it just keeps going for about two minutes then it stops but as soon as you turn key to position lll and start the engine it kicks straight back in again

Did you read my earlier reply? The pump isn't reaching a pressure that is high enough for the ECM to stop it after 45 seconds. Instead it's running the pump until it times out. This suggests a low line pressure which is caused by the pump being cheap, faulty or air locked.
 
Yeah sorry for being a bit unclear. before this morning I was only leaving the ignition on position ll for 45-60sec's with pump running and continuing to run after starting engine ( pos lll ). This morning When checking the relay I left the pump running for longer ( 2 minutes) then it stopped but as soon as I started the engine ( pos,lll ) the pump started running continuosly again. The pump in question is a bearmach pump from advance factors they specialise in Land Rover parts maybe I should get one of the brands you've mentioned. It's doing the same thing as it was before I fitted the new pump and filter I'm trying to recover from two lots of brain surgery ( brain haemorrhage) so again sorry if I've been a bit unclear.
Thanks again
Mark
 
Last edited:
Did you read my earlier reply? The pump isn't reaching a pressure that is high enough for the ECM to stop it after 45 seconds. Instead it's running the pump until it times out. This suggests a low line pressure which is caused by the pump being cheap, faulty or air locked.
Sorry for taking a long time to reply was trying to think what to write everything you are saying makes perfect sense do you think I should buy a different pump? the one I purchased is a bearmach £46.80 not sure what to do next.
Thanks again
Mark
 
advance factors

AF are well regarded for supplying decent parts. I've used them myself many times with little problems. I'm not a real fan of Bearmach however, as quality has been sketchy of late. Peirburg pumps are the original LR fitment and are the best replacements to use. If the pump is noisy, then it's faulty or air locked.
 
AF are well regarded for supplying decent parts. I've used them myself many times with little problems. I'm not a real fan of Bearmach however, as quality has been sketchy of late. Peirburg pumps are the original LR fitment and are the best replacements to use. If the pump is noisy, then it's faulty or air locked.
Thanks Nodge68 really appreciate your input and yes my friend highly recommended AF too so that's one good thing. Any ideas on how to test for air locked before I go out and buy another fuel pump.
Thanks again
Mark
 
Any ideas on how to test for air locked before I go out and buy another fuel pump

Easy. Remove the low pressure feed pipe at the high pressure fuel pump and see how much fuel is discharged from it. It should flow very fast, filling a 4 pint milk bottle very quickly with a solid unbroken stream of fuel. If the fuel delivery is spluttery and not constant with pockets of air in it, then there is an air lock, or one of the connectors isn't sealing tight and drawing in air.
 
I have just bought my 2006 td4 which is making the exact same noise the pump sounds when your turn the key but the buzzing sound stays on for the whole trip, its bloody annoying tbh... I have heard the same that it can be down to a poor pump or a worn one. I have looked through the history of my car and it had the lot replaced in 2014, all the fuel pumps etc.

So I am guessing its a dodgy part... maybe worn bit to quickly..
 
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