TD4 crank shaft sensor won't start

HI I am trouble with a TD4 starting. Td4 won't start cold I had a leaking fuel pipe on the fuel rail which seem to solve the problem for a few days.Now it won't start cold unless you put a spray of easy start down the air in take.when it fire up I seem to have no power on the pedal and a lot of white smoke and running lumpey. When engine is running I have tried pulling the electric connect off the injectors one by one and runs lumpey until I put them back on tried it on the fuel rail as well the same until I put back on but when I do it will the crank shaft sensor did not make any difference could ther be a problem with it canit cause the starting from cold problem

Are you sure you disconnected the crank sensor plug with the engine running? AFAIK the crank sensor signal is essential and the engine should stall if this is disconnected.

To answer your question, yes a bad crank sensor can cause poor starting and running.

You could also try disconnecting the MAF, MAP and IAT sensors. Also LP fuel pump. When did you last change the filter?

if you are having to start it with a start spray then obviously it is not getting the fuel to start check out your fuel supply , is you pump ok has the filter been changed ?

I had the engine running and pulled the crankshaft sensor off and the engine did not stall.

Also the Maff was not connected due to the air manifold not being on.try to see if there is still a diesel leak on the fuel rail engine was still running did stall.

Has new glow plugs New fuel pump last week.
All so tried the 60 seconds prime on the diesel pump 4 times still not starting
On the key

Help

oldfreelander said:

I had the engine running and pulled the crankshaft sensor off and the engine did not stall.

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It must have been using the cam sensor for timing then. I thought that was just for starting.

Sounds like you have an injector problem. Leakback test?

When have the end runing you remove the power lead engine runs lumpy Untill you put it back on engine runs ok would you still need a leak back test

It is a TD4 isn't it not an L series. A TD4 can't run without the crank sensor as the injectors shut down. The only way it might run is if some injectors are leaking into the cylinders, but that's really unlikely as the HP pump regulator would kill the pressure. Sounds very odd to me.

Yes, that's what I thought. Are you sure what you disconnected is the crank sensor? Down underneath the starter?

Forgive me if that's a patronising question - I don't know what level of mechanical knowledge you have. There are some on here who wouldn't know a crank sensor from a glow plug, and some who know the Freelander inside out.

Sorry everyone I mention to say camshaft senor

oldfreelander said:

Sorry everyone I mention to say camshaft senor

Click to expand...

That makes more sense. So, hard cold starting and lumpy running... I say again - leakback test.

To be honest it's driving me mad thanks to everyone for there ideas.it just a few weeks ago it was a slight diesel leak on the fuel rail which sort now it won't start until you put Easy start down the air manifold.

Would it coast a lot for a leak back test or can it be done by my self

I haven't done it, but from reading on here...

1. Unplug injector electrical connectors.
2. Remove fuel return pipes from top of injectors (spring clip and careful pulling). Plug end of return pipe.
3. Attach a suitable piece of clear hose to each injector, and run these into jam jars.
4. Turn key to position II for a minute and watch for diesel leakback.
5. If none (there shouldn't be) then crank the engine for 10 seconds or so. Do this enough times that you have a sensible sample in each jar. They should be equal.

Hopefully someone on here who has actually done it can confirm or mock my advice.

Thanks for that

I'll do a "how to" on the leak back test, when I do mine.

I'm having the same problem with mine