Freelander 1 TD4 (completed) & V6 (completed) Rebuild Projects

Probably more convenient than an air tool too - a bit of a phaff to muck around with the compressor, a bit of annoyance for the neighbours with noise pollution, and you still have that air hose to unravel...

rob_bell said:

Probably more convenient than an air tool too - a bit of a phaff to muck around with the compressor, a bit of annoyance for the neighbours with noise pollution, and you still have that air hose to unravel...

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I have many air tools and the Worx impact wrench. I am trying to move away from trailing hoses and wires, his means going to battery power. I have many Worx products, including a law mower and strimmer, which all use the same batteries. I'm currently looking into charging the batteries via my workshop's solar power system too.

So the replacement engine is in and married up to the auto. All fairly straight forward. Moved box right over to chassis. Lowered engine in, mounted engine on mount and put jack under sump on block. Moved crane onto gearbox and by using blocks and jacking / lowering engine and box it went together. Bolted up and then underneath to connect drive plate and tc. Holes were dead in line for a bolt. I uswd the engine plate to set the drive plate and the tc to 'mid window' position before dropping the engine in. So LH driveshaft in and a break for a cupof tea before fitting alternator, air con pump, ird and all other ancilleries. Glad that worked out ok. Have swapped broken brake fluid level switch from donor. Will put up photo as the switch pulls from the master cyl easily. No fluid loss as it is a reed switch with a float magnet inside the cylinder. Wonder if this engine will work ok???

andyfreelandy said:

Wonder if this engine will work ok??

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At least you know how to swap it if it's no good.

andyfreelandy said:

So the replacement engine is in and married up to the auto. All fairly straight forward. Moved box right over to chassis. Lowered engine in, mounted engine on mount and put jack under sump on block. Moved crane onto gearbox and by using blocks and jacking / lowering engine and box it went together. Bolted up and then underneath to connect drive plate and tc. Holes were dead in line for a bolt. I uswd the engine plate to set the drive plate and the tc to 'mid window' position before dropping the engine in. So LH driveshaft in and a break for a cupof tea before fitting alternator, air con pump, ird and all other ancilleries. Glad that worked out ok. Have swapped broken brake fluid level switch from donor. Will put up photo as the switch pulls from the master cyl easily. No fluid loss as it is a reed switch with a float magnet inside the cylinder. Wonder if this engine will work ok???

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So what did you do in the afternoon?

This is what a brake fluid level indicator looks like after you have hit it with a TD4 shaped wrecking ball ! Sounds a bit dramatic, I actually just 'caught' it on the way out with my engine !
This whole assembly can be removed from the master cylinder without fluid loss, press the button indicated by the 'small' pliers and it slides out from the socket end.

Also - this is what it looks like inside - small reed type switch.


Just so as you know ! May save cost of a new master cylinder?

andyfreelandy said:

This is what a brake fluid level indicator looks like after you have hit it with a TD4 shaped wrecking ball ! Sounds a bit dramatic, I actually just 'caught' it on the way out with my engine

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I moved it out the way when I changed the engine on my V6. It's helpful to know that the sensor can be changed as it does go wrong sometimes.

The photo that you've all been waiting for ! Well, I've been keen to unveil the problem to check all my work has not been without cause !

The modification to my TD4 crank has produced a world first - a RVVTTD4 - that is a Random Variable Valve Timing TD4 !

Crank has broken immediately adjacent to the Big End of Cylinder 1. Maybe this is why it went on so long. I observed pinking and now I can see that the timing was changing as it pleased. I ran the car with this pinking noise since February 18. I have towed horses, cars and even another Freelander on a trailer. It was several months after this that it finally found a point at which the crank could 'jam' and stop the engine. Even then the AA guy that recovered me commented on how well it ran until it locked ! His diagnosis (albeit without the knowledge of the pinking etc) was a diesel hydraulic lock due to the way the engine stopped - solidly !

Glad the culprit is finally nailed. No damage to big end number 1 at all - either half. I'm guessing a replacement crank and we would be good to go again. Probably keep it for spares now.


Bought another Freelander today (a 1.8 petrol with a sick (noisy and powerless engine) to go with my 3 TD4's and a V6 ! Now got a 1.8 petrol, V6 and TD4 in Epsom Green...Picking it up on Wednesday.

I'm curious as to why the crank would fail at its least loaded end. But that's not the first M47 I've seen break in the same place. This leads me to think that the damper isn't up to the job, or the crank has a weak point on the front web. It's definitely an unusual place for a crank to fail, as cranks normally fail in the middle or to the output end.

You could get away with fitting another crank in to the block to salvage that engine.

I have to say I was expecting a break between 2 & 3 - but interesting to read Nodge’s observation!

At least you have a spare engine for parts

What’s the plan for the 1.8?

Depends on the survey result on Wednesday. Have ordered a head gasket leak tester....so starting on a positive note!! Misfire and noisey need not be terminal. But it does have 17 inch straight spoke alloys so they may migrate to my TD4 or if it is a fixer I'll keep it. My old MGF was a fun car so I know the engine a bit and how to TLC to preserve it. Watch this space. New thread for 1.8 I think. Td4 should be finished this week. Also got most of suspension ready for refurb and refit to V6. Enjoyed the whole thing just wish I'd been on the design team to move a few fixings about. I used to design systems for maintenance. LR don't seem to have that job role on their books.....

I doubt Freelander was developed with the Td4 or KV6 in mind - but the K16 is a joy to work on. The L-series I bet is similarly easy?

Looking forward to the next instalments!

Almost finished the TD4 engine swap. The cooling system T piece in the top hose that feeds / returns the auto cooler has cracked. Anyone got one lying around?? Can post photo.

I need the plastic sleeve with the small spout on the RHS of picture !

My spout has broken off

O.K so Land Rover being Land Rover, you have to buy 3/4 of a Freelander attached to the bit of plastic that you need, but hey.
Pleased to report TD4 engine fired up, all smooth and no smoke and no leaks !!
Long may it continue. Thanks for all help and support on the TD4. Just the V6 suspension swap to complete now.
Photos when it is all off, pile of rusty junk coming off, refurbed going back on, quite satisfying.

Great job Andy!

On to the V6. Been sorting out a 1.8K hence the delay. Stripped allfront suspension and sub from donor this afternoon. Ordered new joints and bushes and will get it all blasted and then paint it. Photos soon.

One donor wishbone seized into snubber bush and I mean seized!! Hoping one original is useable. New ball joints to be fitted. Also, as suspected, the V6 has earlier ABS. Again, hoping hub and sensor is savable. Maybe new reluctance rings if shaft and joints ok.

Stripped rusty bits off the V6 this afternoon. All bolts undid - little thread to stop them. Discs - scrap, backplates - scrap, calipers and cradles - scrap. Interesting to know how this car passed its MOT 15 months ago. Calipers and slide pins are so seized that no amount of effort moves them.

Photos:
Disc and backplate.
Caliper cradle and slide pins (not sliding)!
Caliper.
Donor caliper after my 'reengineering' process.

All remaining parts to be blasted and coated in black hammerite.

Noted that hubs on the 2001 V6 use an ABS reluctance ring and the donor uses the magnetic driveshafts and so the systems are incompatible.
2001 ABS system
2003 ABS system
This means retaining the driveshafts and hubs - fortunately both are serviceable.
New brake pipes to make up and then the front is complete.

Off the rear perhaps by the end of the week - complete subframe and suspension swap (retaining diff and driveshafts and hubs). All bolt ends are probably going to need cutting off, but the subframe mounting bolts are loose and so I can pull the frame complete and then use a cutter if necessary.

Mountain of scrap metal is piling up !

One front corner completed, will torque wishbone when the car has landed on planet earth again.
Some parts after clean up (mainly from donor car) and the finished front wheel arch.


Cleaned discs with Phosphoric Acid - very quick and easy. 45% solution.
Also, removed front tray to look for where the mass of oil was coming from, the answer is nowhere! I think it is lazy oil changing and allowing it to slop all over the tray. Any obvious places to hunt for a V6 engine oil leak?? No traces on engine, but not had it running and looked yet.

The anti-freeze is BLUE ! What a wonderful garage looked after this car for its life so far. Will this have done any damage and will flushing and changing to OAT pink be the remedy?
On to the next side then drop the rear subframe.