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Freelander 1 TD4 (completed) & V6 (completed) Rebuild Projects

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by andyfreelandy, Jul 13, 2018.

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  1. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    I am taking on something bigger than ever before (for me). Other threads cover the sad engine fatality on my TD4 and the purchase of a very low mileage V6 - with lots of rusty parts (been to the beach too much).

    Story so far. TD4 engine locking up and sounding like a bag of nails - suspect major crank / big end damage.
    V6 purchased very cheaply as it was a 'scrapper' but had only 54k on the clock.

    To the V6 first, it is an Epsom Green 2001 SE with only 2 owners from new. Looking at the service history and receipts it has had £4.5k spent on it in the last 10 years and a cam belt / head gasket / water pump at 40k. Garage serviced always it has had annual servicing and I counted no less than 9 oil changes in 19k miles !! So - engine seems good but underneath is a different story. Will post photos but front discs and calipers rusted, brake pipes rusted, nuts and bolts in suspension almost non existent. Interior is grey leather and mint. Missing Key fob and rear door is not communicating with the rest of the car at all !

    The TD4 is an Epsom Green 2002 SE which I have owned and cared for since 2012. It is a work horse and has been fantastic value until the engine packed up - more of that when I find out what and why.

    The plan:
    V6 - Replace all rusted components underneath including all brake lines, front brakes and rear subframe and suspension. Fully service the bits the garage didn't bother with, auto fluid etc and reprogramme a new fob and repair all rear door items.
    TD4 - obtain new engine and rebuild with new parts as required to make fit and restore my old faithful to operational service ! Everything else works brilliantly.

    How to do this - a visit to the local scrapper this week revealed a 2003 3 dr TD4 with no clutch, a gearbox and IRD in the boot and propshaft alongside. Story was it went for a clutch repair and owner couldn't afford a new DMF and all the bits. Bought it on the spot and trailered it back to chez nous!

    Rear subframe and all compatible bits from suspension and brakes to go to the V6 and the engine goes to the TD4 - result ! Just got to do the work now !

    Also, got a 3 dr Monte Carlo Blue shell in good condition with interior, dash, doors, tailgate etc etc. Please PM me if any of this is of interest.

    Today completed survey of V6 and will post photos, shocking that the MOT only expired in June 18. Rusted discs (never seen them pitted with rust holes), bolt heads on suspension reduced to domes and fuel tank support almost non existent - again the 3 dr will help here as I have to take the subframe off the V6 anyway.

    Watch this space and photos will follow. Am used to restoring classic cars but this will be a first for me, I should end up with 2 very useable vehicles, the V6 for fun and short runs and the Td4 for the hauling and long runs.

    Sorry it's long, but hope it will be fun............................................
     
    4Bee4Bee, zefrench, Alibro and 2 others like this.
  2. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    First tranch of technical advice please:
    1 - Can I use the TD4 discs and calipers on the V6 ?
    2 - Will the TD4 rear subframe fit the V6 and, as I think it will, can I use the suspension hardware (links, driveshafts, rods etc?) I will use the V6 diff as it is lower mileage.
    3 - Will the ABS stuff be compatible?
    4 - Can I reprogramme the Td4 key fob using a scanner programmer if I haven't got one at all ? Or can I use the CCU and key fob from the same car or will that screw the ignition key?
    5 - Is the fuel tank support frame the same for diesel and petrol?

    First of many questions !
    Will take photos over the weekend.
     
  3. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Yes. They're the same.
    Yes. The springs and shocks might have different ratings, but will still work.

    Yes and no, depends on the year of both vehicles.
    Yes

    You might get away with using the CCU with working fobs in the other vehicle.

    Good luck. ;)
     
  4. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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  5. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    20180714_155702.jpg Going to work on both in parallel as one won't run and the other failed MOT so will roll them together - when I get bored of rust I'll do the oily bits !

    Did a survey and photos today - made me smile ! Good news is that the discs, calipers and rear drums all unbolt and are free ready to come off. Bad news is that the rear subframe and suspension is really bad and I am going to change the lot at the back.

    After some heavy work thought I'd fix the tailgate electrics - how hard could it be??
    PO told me that 'a garage had 'isolated' the tailgate lock. The PO was in her 70's and the garage had fitted a wire to pull from over the back seat to release the catch, all other electrics in the door appeared dead. When I removed the tailgate panel there appeared to be a load of space I'd not seen before. Not surprising, the entire rear window mech was missing and the glass held up with 2 bits of wood. So the car thought the window was open (it was a tad) and hence wiper and washer not working, Wires cut to rear door lock and a crude pull wire attached. SO - donor car will provide a complete new tailgate loom and all necessary parts that don't work on this one. Rear washer nut was so rusty it fell in two when I turned it.

    See photos. Plucking up courage to loosen rear subframe. May drill small holes in boot floor and inject oil to soak them before trying, don't want to end up welding captive nuts back in place - any tips???

    20180714_155702.jpg Front strut.

    20180714_155654.jpg Caliper, note the complete lack of rubber boot on the slider. Calipers are completely seized.
    20180714_155545.jpg Rear brake plate. Note that it failed the MOT on rusted brake pipes (all) pipe is only thing not rusty !!
    20180714_155615.jpg Fuel tank support - or lack of it - doubt it would fall out but not pretty.
    20180714_155727.jpg Front disc - worst I've ever seen - one trip too many to the beach.
    20180714_134605.jpg Garage completed rear door modifications - 2 nice timber struts to hold window almost up and nothing works at all.
    20180714_134623.jpg And again !
    20180714_140115.jpg Lurking in the tailgate mounted leaf catcher !

    Door stripped to shell and loom removed complete with cut wiring and tape. All will be replaced after waxoyling door seams.
    MOT only expired in June 18 ! Not sure what is holding it all together underneath.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018
  6. kernowsvenski

    kernowsvenski Well-Known Member

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    I shall be watching this thread. :)
     
  7. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    I think hopefully you'll be surprised the subframe bolts release easier than expected, I was surprised how easy the fuel tank bolts came out.
    There is a connector in the corner for the boot door loom behind the plastic panel so you don't need to cut any wires.
     
  8. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Spotted the 3 plugs in the rear wing! All old wiring stripped out and transplant commenced! I think I will locate the subframe mounts in the boot, drill 24mm holes to inspect and apply penetrating oil then I can use the holes to flood box sections with wax and fit grommets. Got loads left from my classic mini rebuild. Will be getting the arse in the air tomorrow....the V6 that is to see if it gives up its subframe easily. Most of the rot will then be off and can clean, wire brush, rust kill and stone chip spray the rear end prior to fitting refettled new sub assy. Sounds easy enough!
     
    Alibro likes this.
  9. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Donor car prepared for engine removal - picking up crane tomorrow. Nothing too difficult here, various views on exit from top or bottom, as the gearbox is already out I could do either, but have solid trolley so will lower onto that for safety and lift car up. Have posted a question about the auto - fluid in or out, how to dis the Torque Converter etc...
    As light relief this afternoon I migrated all the donor car tailgate contents, locks, window motor, loom, wiper motor etc to the V6. All good but need to drill and tap repair the working door handle as one thread has rusted off. Will also change lock barrel from original to retain same key for whole car.

    A few photos.......
    DSC_0640.JPG Contents of rear door - not quite in order ! DSC_0642.JPG All fitted to V6 rear door, new loom and all original clip positions. Waxoyled door skin.
    DSC_0643.JPG Looking good - from a door skin to this. Just the handle to repair and change lock barrel on and then black the high level brake light mount and refit seal. First time the window has been closed for many years judging by the wet boot floor ! All being cleaned and dried out.
     
    Madmustang likes this.
  10. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    Glad to see you're so confident in the engine/gearbox transplant you're playing with the boot door. :p
    Apart from the engine and gearbox, what else do you need to swap over. I assume the ECU and maybe the CCU
     
  11. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Ha..ha... I just try to mix heavy work with something lighter and rewarding as so many bits to do I can mix it up and enjoy it!! As I am putting a TD4 manual engine into a TD4 auto car with auto gearbox I hadn't planned to touch the electricery boxes...is that correct?? I'd read engine are same except for torque conv plate and egr cooler. Please say if I'm wrong. Also can you help withmy autobox question below? Cheers....
     
  12. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    Sorry mate, I don't know much about it but I assumed you'd need to swap the ECU but I guess if it's only the engine your swapping and keeping the auto box all will be ok.
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    If you're putting a manual engine into an auto car, then it's going to be pretty straightforward. You will need to replace the flywheel with the flex plate, but that's easy peasy. Just don't remove the torque converter from the box, remove the flex plate from the TC instead.
     
  14. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Do i need to drain auto box? If I keep it level and/or keep shaft ends in? Seems important not to pull TC out!
     
  15. td4van

    td4van Well-Known Member

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    Just make sure the engine harness is the same between the 2 else you could be missing a sensor wiring
     
  16. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    You'll need to drain the box, as the fluid will come out when either the LH driveshaft or IRD are removed. ;)

    It's no big deal to change the fluid. Just put back the same amount that comes out, or set the level correctly. ;)
     
  17. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Some more progress, key progress ! There are a couple of 1" plugs on the boot floor that almost exactly line up with the rear subframe captive nuts (well there are on the 2001 V6). So - removed and flooded with penetrating oil. Soaked overnight and bolts that looked like they have been on the beach all their life have loosened. A loud creak of threads moving - so the oil didn't penetrate much and some tightening and loosening had released all 4 without damage. Just to indicate how rusty they were, an 18mm socket just fit until turned and the rust fell off, then I hammered a 17mm on and that fit fine. What size they actually should be will become clear later with the new ones !

    Finished V6 rear door - handle studs rusted so cut off, drilled, tapped M6 and new threads inserted. All works o.k.

    Been playing with the 'fob' - I have a T300 programmer that I used on my old MGF (1998) but the OBD plug is too small for the Landy - I thought they were all the same. This claims to be able to reprogramme keys and fobs. If this won't work I'll pinch the CCU from the donor car but would like to be able to programme a spare.

    Off to haul the engine out of the donor - will take some photos of disconnection points to help me remember and others maybe!?!?
     
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  18. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks TD4 Van - do you know of difference in the sensors between auto and manual - if so which ones??
     
  19. td4van

    td4van Well-Known Member

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    All the same between manual and auto - differences were on age - 2004MY on had an extra sensor in the top intercooler hose
     
  20. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    No one here is crazier than you mate! LOL :p:D:D

    Mind you, Andy has got a Monte Carlo... so maybe you're right?

    If I had the space/time I'd love to play around with one of those (Monte Carlo): beautiful machines :) But I "get" the "buy three and get two good ones" theme of this awesome project :D
     
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