td4 auto

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timmay

Active Member
Posts
188
Location
Milton keynes
Hiya all, as you can see, i am new to the forum, but have owned a multitude of landys over the years from series to RRs.
I have recently bought a td4 auto, which seems ok, but i do find the drive selector to be ver stiff to use. Is there somewhere on the linkage that needs greasing? I have just come from a v6 jag, and the selector was as smooth as silk.
My other issue is the rear window heater not working, fuse ok, and the switch lights up, any ideas please.

any suggestions welcome, thanks, Tim
 
Hi Timmay,
The auto is electronic (steptronic) and as such there is no mechanical connection to the gearbox at all, my freelander auto feels a bit clunky on the shifter TBH especially if your used to a V6 Jag :) To be fair though, I think they are a nice little auto box and to my mind pull a bit better then the manual TD4's and have pretty slick changes, if a little heavier on fuel when your running about.
As for your rear window, have you tried checking with a multimeter at the rear window connections? You may have to take door trim off to do this,
Also have you checked the fuse? because it operates through a sort of computer then a relay, I imagine the switch would still light up etc. even if the main circuit to the window had blown its fuse. May be worth checking first!
 
If it's a Freelander 1 then there is a mechanical connection, via a metal cable. The gear lever controls a cable that runs to the bottom of yer auto, which moves a lever under yer auto, which controls via a rod (or something else because I haven't taken mine apart that far to know (yet)) which travels through the auto to the top where the selector and inhibitor switch is. As you move the lever the selector changes the switch contact position. This is monitored by the auto's computer to see what lever position you have selected, and if the inhibitor is telling it not to start etc.

Mines a bit notchy too. I disconnected the cable and moved the lever under the auto manually when the engine was off. The notchyness is inside the auto. It wasn't there after being fitted (recon) but seems to happen over time. After a main dealer service it loosens up. I assume they do something to it, but I don't know what. When I take my spare auto apart fully I'll have a look and post something up, unless someone else knows the magical secrete.
 
If it's a Freelander 1 then there is a mechanical connection, via a metal cable. The gear lever controls a cable that runs to the bottom of yer auto, which moves a lever under yer auto, which controls via a rod (or something else because I haven't taken mine apart that far to know (yet)) which travels through the auto to the top where the selector and inhibitor switch is. As you move the lever the selector changes the switch contact position. This is monitored by the auto's computer to see what lever position you have selected, and if the inhibitor is telling it not to start etc.

Mines a bit notchy too. I disconnected the cable and moved the lever under the auto manually when the engine was off. The notchyness is inside the auto. It wasn't there after being fitted (recon) but seems to happen over time. After a main dealer service it loosens up. I assume they do something to it, but I don't know what. When I take my spare auto apart fully I'll have a look and post something up, unless someone else knows the magical secrete.

well its nothing in side your box ,shaft has detents ,but bowden cable stiffness is cable
 
well its nothing in side your box ,shaft has detents ,but bowden cable stiffness is cable
When disconnecting the cable under the auto the cable/lever slides really smoothly. When turning lever under the auto with the cable disconnected the lever it notchy so I assumed it's something in the auto or perhaps the switch on top. Spare auto is notchy too.
 
Regarding the rear window - take off the rear door card and make sure the connectors are actually attached to the window - sounds simple but I had this problem with mine.

It looked like someone had replace the window regulator, but didn't tidy up and left it all disconnected.....
 
Thanks for all that lads, mine is a '56 facelift model (the expensive road tax one).
In sport mode the lever moves nicely, and manually changing from 5th to 4th, its only notchy when stationary and selecting any position, if its any clue, i never use the handbrake on autos, just relying on park.
Will have the doorcard off this weekend.
 
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