td4 2.0 auto gearbox oil leak

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Fish4london

Fish4london

New Member
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9
Location
Orpington kent
Hey all been a member here for a while and this place has truly helped keep my freelander 1 on the road. Going through the mill a bit as my freelander doesn't love me as much as i have tried to love her. I have been trying to find a part number for a leak i have on the gear box. I went for a visit to my main stealer yesterday as i stupidly forgot to order my crank shaft pulley bolt and washer (the bolt is truly a thing of nightmares still cant shift the bolt with my 1/2" dewalt gun).
The leak i am trying to fix is on the spline between the intermediate reduction drive and the gearbox.The main stealer said its a non serviceable part does that mean I am snookered ?. Heres an image of the location
jzPzXrO.jpg
. I dont even know if it is something i am capable to fix on my own.
Any help pointing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Steve
 
Ird to gearbox has an O ring fitted. Readily available on ebay. Can't quite make out photo but that is only ird to box seal.
 
Btw not sure if the crank pulley work is related? Guess not but don't use impact wrench on TD4 pulley. Crank is cast and can fracture.....ask me how I know!! May not have been due to undoing pulley bolt but it broke at that end several thousand miles later. Be warned.......
 
Oh crap , thanks for the reply . Is the work do able easily or is it a ball ache. Im sure i read somewhere i have to remove wheel then ird to get to where the seal is ? . Unfortunately I already tried the impact wrench and it didn't budge I also tried a breaker bar with a scaffold tube extension. I dont think i have the bottle to tie the bar to the support strut and disconnect injectors and turn it over. Something is bound to go wrong i now my luck. Feels like i have had a period of stuff going 1 after the other. I didn't know anything about cars really till i had this land rover it is really testing me atm lmao.
 
Are you using the special locking tool to hold the pulley, also there are different sized bolts for the pullet depending on the year I can not remember which is which.
 

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Sorry its i got 2 jobs i need to do at once . I bought a crap euro car parts pulley instead of the corteco when i replaced(I got part and garage changed it cos i had bolt trouble then as well) less than 10k miles ago. I was hoping that to take it off this time would be easier :( . I did make a locking tool out of some flat plat and bar yesterday but it wasn't man enough. And to be honest the breaker bar was bowing under the pressure with scaffold tube on the end of it.

The washer is another job i need to get done . I did 3 gearbox oil changes all partial as there is some people say you cant do it all in 1 go and others who say you do partial. The leak is progressively getting worse. When I checked my oil level by getting the car level, then up to temp between the 35-45 degree mark I found that I was low by 732ml. I looked at it where the leak is coming from scratched my head and was like how the hell do i get to that 1, hence it still needs doing.

At same time as leak i had an injector go down on me, so to rule several things out i took exhaust off the turbo, Took the prop shaft off and back on. Then the sodding starter went on me (got a kit off the evilbay for that )
So in the end i bought a new bosch injector and struck lucky as it was the only injector i didn't have to strip everything off dropped a ball bearing in the port and clean all the crap out (that took forever with some grease and a kebab skewer. And as im lucky person all this happened over the winter hahahahah.
For a novice like me it is a bit daunting (but i will have a go at anything once) the location of the seal.
 
Nodge68 said:
It the oil coming from the "tell tail" hole, between the IRD and gearbox?
Click to expand...
It looks more like it is weeping from the spline ,, if that is the correct word for it. I have a full video of me climbing underneath to find it as i thought at least i could show someone with more knowledge than me the where it is coming from. I haven't seen anything weeping from the the hole.

Is the hole supposed to have some form of grub screw or something in it ?
 
Fish4london said:
It looks more like it is weeping from the spline ,, if that is the correct word for it. I
Click to expand...
The splines aren't visible when the IRD is bolted to the gearbox.
Fish4london said:
I haven't seen anything weeping from the the hole.
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That suggests the shaft seals are ok.
Fish4london said:
Is the hole supposed to have some form of grub screw or something in it ?
Click to expand...
No. It's left open. It's a "tell tale" hole, so you can see oil that's getting past the IRD/gearbox shaft seals.

If nothing is coming out the "tell tale", then it suggests the external O ring on the IRD nose has failed (see picture), or the gearbox seal surface was scratched, when the IRD was last refitted.
20190603_101804.jpg
 
@Nodge68 you are a super star , is that job do-able for a amateur land rover owner ? . I would have to do it on the side of the road, which is where i been doing all my repairs :( .

And thanks @andyfreelandy and @Arctic2 for your input as well :)

I never knew owning a land rover would be such a steep learning curve with regarding to fixing them. At the start i had next to no tools now i have amassed a good kit for doing most jobs :)
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
If nothing is coming out the "tell tale", then it suggests the external O ring on the IRD nose has failed (see picture), or the gearbox seal surface was scratched, when the IRD was last refitted.
Click to expand...
As far as I am aware the seal hasn't been changed and im on 123k miles. I think I read or was dreaming that I read that seals life expectancy was 80k could be wrong on that though.
 
Fish4london said:
@Nodge68 you are a super star , is that job do-able for a amateur land rover owner ? . I would have to do it on the side of the road, which is where i been doing all my repairs :(
Click to expand...
It's possible for a competent DIYer to do, but not ideal doing it at the side of the road.
You'll need to remove the RH side drive shaft from the IRD. This means popping the bottom ball joint, so the shaft can be withdrawn from the IRD. You'll then need to remove the RH IRD support bracket from the engine, and the 4 bolts that secure the IRD to the gearbox. The fluid will need draining from both the IRD and gearbox before you start.

Once everything is free, the IRD can be withdrawn from the gearbox and rested on the front cross member. You can then remove the Old O ring and replace it with a new one. Clean the hole in the gearbox thoroughly, checking for damage and lubricate the O ring with some transmission fluid. Then carefully slide the IRD back into the gearbox, wiggling if necessary, and start reassemble everything you previously removed.
Fish4london said:
I never knew owning a land rover would be such a steep learning curve with regarding to fixing them.
Click to expand...
They can be challenging.
Fish4london said:
As far as I am aware the seal hasn't been changed and im on 123k miles. I think I read or was dreaming that I read that seals life expectancy was 80k could be wrong on that though.
Click to expand...
I don't see why an O ring would have a set life. Normally they don't fail at all. It's definitely not a common problem, thankfully the O ring is cheap, unfortunately the gearbox fluid isn't so cheap.
 
Just to add to Nodge's suggestions for removing the IRD...

If you can do it over an inspection pit, access is quite 'easy'. You do still need to jack up the front RH wheel though.

Rather than popping the bottom ball joint, you can remove the 2 big bolts that hold the hub to the strut which allows the hub to be angled back - I found removing and reinstalling these bolts easy - but that's not on rusted up UK cars.

I would removed the props/VCU to make access to the IRD easier - I'm also not sure if it can be rested on the subframe with the props still attached.

The whole process of removing the IRD is 'simply' undoing bolts - just lots of them and some of them are very tight. Lots of extension bars for your socket set are needed and a pole over the ratchet handle for extra leverage (which means you are only turning 1 notch at a time for some bolts).

I've not done a TD4, only L and K Series. The different models are similar though - things like exhaust interfering are different though.
 
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