Tapping noise from top of engine

Hi Each & All - I have a rattle from the top of my engine that is not only driving me insane but also hard to pin point what it is - LINK: ( )

Thre is a tap/hammering noise coming from the top of my Range Rover Sport 2.7 TDV6 Engine - it gets worse with RPM at about 3000 RPM it sounds almost like a fast hammering from the top end - No Smoke, no engine managemnt faults - serpentine belt removed along with Crankshaft Pulley - still the same - any ideas?

Hi

First thing I would check if u haven’t already is the oil pressure , alas can’t change the tappet clearances on these engines

As side notes plse have u replaced the oil pump cover at any stage And what year / mileage is it plse and have u had it on diagnostics

cheers

No I have not changed the Oil Pump - nor checked the oil pressure - does anyone know the attachemnt size needed to screw in to the oil prrssure switch? - 2006 TDV6 - 95.000 miles - I have JLR SDD And no fault codes related to this issue - I also did a compression check across both blocks about a month ago which were as follows:

DRIVERS SIDE
1 : 430 PSI
2 : 430 PSI
3 : 420 PSI
PASSENGER SIDE
1 : 440 PSI
2 : 430 PSI
3 : 430 PSI

I dont think the Blts have been changed yet - I intend to change them along with the Oil Pump soon

Just saw vid - at the back?
Have you tried running injector cleaner through it?

I did put some rdex injector cleaner in the tank that should have ran through by now - still the same, one point is it seems to be nowhere near as bad on cold start up - seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets -

How handy with spanners are you?
Could be sticky valve stem or something, if it’s not smoking or running bad could go for years as Is with no problems.

I’d keep an eye on it but not worry. Injector cleaner is bottled for 2.0 TD cars etc - RRs have huge tanks so you need to put more than specified dose usually. I put a whole bottle in quarter of a tank, get it up to temperature then get revs up before I change oil & filters.
If it’s a sticky injector I’d expect a fault code thrown could substitute see if knocking follows it

Use 1 litre of Dextron 2 or 3! That is for a full tank.
It is also a great additive to clean the whole system.
It really sounds like injectors.
I don't understand your compression I'm afraid. How much in bars?

hotmrw said:

No I have not changed the Oil Pump - nor checked the oil pressure - does anyone know the attachemnt size needed to screw in to the oil prrssure switch? - 2006 TDV6 - 95.000 miles - I have JLR SDD And no fault codes related to this issue - I also did a compression check across both blocks about a month ago which were as follows:

DRIVERS SIDE
1 : 430 PSI
2 : 430 PSI
3 : 420 PSI
PASSENGER SIDE
1 : 440 PSI
2 : 430 PSI
3 : 430 PSI

I dont think the Blts have been changed yet - I intend to change them along with the Oil Pump soon

Click to expand...

cheers for the answers

plus as a side note to save removing glow plugs in future , u can also do an electronic compression test using an oscilloscope

size u need for the oil pump switch is M14 x 1.5

ref the cylinder balance offset , what’s ur readings on all 6 x injectors plse using ur diagnostic reader

what grade of oil have u used and also what make of engine oil filter

hope that helps

Ps, have got full specs/ manuals , etc of these engines so will be interesting to see what full test results u get

anitarrc said:

Use 1 litre of Dextron 2 or 3! That is for a full tank.
It is also a great additive to clean the whole system.
It really sounds like injectors.
I don't understand your compression I'm afraid. How much in bars?

Click to expand...

hi

that’s around 30 x bar

Don't put ATF through the injectors.

Would like to know the oil pressure.

Henry_b said:

Don't put ATF through the injectors.

Would like to know the oil pressure.

Click to expand...

hi mate

indeed, need to see what the oil pressure is , I know what they should be so will be interesting to see what readings the op gets

Thanks for the answeres everyone - oil pressure is my next check - I am led to believe I need a 1/4 NPT thread - Just been out and started her up, almost no noise even when revved up to 3000 RPM - when it starts warming up this is when it starts getting noisey, the oil light on the dashboard goes off after 1 second of starting - And I am very good with spanners - just cant be@rsed these days - the oil I used was Fuchs TITAN Supersyn F Eco-DT 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
done less than 100 miles ago.....

Head scratcing

It’s the starts tapping when warmed I don’t like. keep us updated

5w30 is for a very cold climate. If it get worse when warm might be your oil is to thin.. depending on where you are. In the old days LR used to put a table depending on your climate in the books. Now the just write 5w30 regardless well that sure doesn't apply here
And ATF has always worked well used it in my p38 and my 200tdi engine has 500 thousand km or more.. excellent cleaner. Just don't use the cheap and nasty.

I am in the UK - this oil was recomended by Opie Oils - infact all the oils recomended by Opie were 5w 30 - and ATF Mixed with Engine oi?

No the ATF goes in the full tank. You can start with 500ml and if nothing else you have cleaned out the whole dystem

It does clean well, and burns like diesel. Plus our diesel is more like petrol now.

Not sure I would bet my no4 injector on it tho
I opted for not even flushing my engine oil with it in the end, stuff is evil.

I have a slight knocking similar to this on my M51. Head seems fine so I’ve left it. Flushing my engine with a mix helped alleviate it but it’s still there ever so quietly.
Doesn’t smoke, pulls like a train just sounds like a normal diesel

hotmrw said:

Thanks for the answeres everyone - oil pressure is my next check - I am led to believe I need a 1/4 NPT thread - Just been out and started her up, almost no noise even when revved up to 3000 RPM - when it starts warming up this is when it starts getting noisey, the oil light on the dashboard goes off after 1 second of starting - And I am very good with spanners - just cant be@rsed these days - the oil I used was Fuchs TITAN Supersyn F Eco-DT 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
done less than 100 miles ago.....

Head scratcing

Click to expand...

Cheers and ur very welcome

think ur right ref the sensor size, ie 1/4 , if u would be so kind to let us know if It is 1/4 plse

that’s good oil, what make of filter did u use please

also can u do an injector test with ur reader

Plse let us know how it goes

RangeRoller dt said:

It does clean well, and burns like diesel. Plus our diesel is more like petrol now.

Not sure I would bet my no4 injector on it tho
I opted for not even flushing my engine oil with it in the end, stuff is evil.

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hi

must admit with these engines I wouldn’t flush them or start putting additives in , but that my own person choice

@lynall , hi , hope u didn’t mind me putting a tag, what so u think plse as I know ur extremely knowledgeable , ref additives , flushing these engines plse , many thks