Tailgate

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Shaun murphy

Member
Posts
51
Location
Batley
hi folks
Live feed to tailgate as gone kaput somewhere along the line.
Question is could I feed a constant 12v from somewhere else and spice it into original wiring?
Ps I've checked wiring up to hinge area I'd much appreciate any ideas
Cheers Shaun
 
The tailgate is completely controlled by the CCU. So you can't just give it 12 volts for it to work. You need to find out what is actually wrong with it.
What is it not doing?
Is the window dropping?
Is it not unlocking?
 
Thank for quick reply nodge
Door not opening an window doesn't stay up! Window going up an down fine but when window gets to the top there's a beep and straight back down?
 
Have tried that nodge
But there's conflicting information about how long to leave the battery disconnected? I'll try again when I get home
Cheers
 
Have tried that nodge
But there's conflicting information about how long to leave the battery disconnected? I'll try again when I get home
Cheers

A second without power is all that's needed to clear the CCU memory.

So if you have done the re-calibration. Next thing to check is the window lift control signal is working. There's a hall effect sensor (tricky to test without an oscilloscope) in the window motor. If this sensor signal is missing, the CCU can't identify the window position. All you can do is check the Hall sensor wiring. It sounds like the CCU isn't able to store window position, due the a sensor fault.

Once you have done the window calibration, does the CCU warning sounder beep if you press the down button? If it does beep, then the calibration couldn't be validated, so the window won't stay up.
 
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If I can throw my thoughts in.
When you push up the open lever and release it, can you hear the actuator being pulled down, and sliding back up again?

Because it will not let you close the window, it thinks the door is open, so all seems to be doing its job, and seems to me like the micro switch on the lock that tells the ccu if the door is open or closed has failed, and is telling the ccu the door is open. Known this before, not on Freelander, but the principles and design are the same.

The only reason the ccu would think the door is open is because the lock micro switch is sending a message saying so

Beats the hell out of me why the FL has no interior lock handle, I personally have never known it. When SWMBO bought a Freelander, I had a trawl of the web, and read about the back door lock failing and not being able to open it from the inside. 'Nah, that can't be right', I looked, and sure enough no interior door handle or manual release. Sod that, about a hour later it had a manual door unlock cable in the door pocket attached to the lock lever above the actuator.
 
If I can throw my thoughts in.
When you push up the open lever and release it, can you hear the actuator being pulled down, and sliding back up again?

Because it will not let you close the window, it thinks the door is open, so all seems to be doing its job, and seems to me like the micro switch on the lock that tells the ccu if the door is open or closed has failed, and is telling the ccu the door is open. Known this before, not on Freelander, but the principles and design are the same.

The only reason the ccu would think the door is open is because the lock micro switch is sending a message saying so

Beats the hell out of me why the FL has no interior lock handle, I personally have never known it. When SWMBO bought a Freelander, I had a trawl of the web, and read about the back door lock failing and not being able to open it from the inside. 'Nah, that can't be right', I looked, and sure enough no interior door handle or manual release. Sod that, about a hour later it had a manual door unlock cable in the door pocket attached to the lock lever above the actuator.
I think the designer lost heart somewhere along the way. If you want to build a solid car without that many pitfall buy a horse an cart.
 
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