Swivel Pre load - What am I doing wrong?

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Blizzard44

Member
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67
Location
North Wales
Hi all, in my effort to track down a horrible vibration coming from the front and through the steering , and veering all over the road at 50mph, I have moved onto swivel pin preload. I have done nearly everything else (new bushes all round, ball joints, UJs, new steering box, tracking) as part of a mini rebuild, it's a 1989 90.

One suggestion was the swivel preload. I have taken off the steering arm and drag link and used a scale on the passenger side wheel. One thing that confused me is using the steering arm hole, the resistance was close to 0, however using the hole for the drag link, the resistance shot up to 7.5kg ( and it's around 7.5kg on the driver side wheel too). This is with the swivel seals in place ( some say I need to remove them, some don't ).

So I am very confused as to which reading I should go off of. I think for my vehicle the reading should be between 3.5-4.5kg with the seals off. Is getting the seals off easy or will I be removing a lot of bits?

So I would be very grateful if someone could point me in the right direction (of my nearest garage maybe?). Thanks.
 
Hi all, in my effort to track down a horrible vibration coming from the front and through the steering , and veering all over the road at 50mph, I have moved onto swivel pin preload. I have done nearly everything else (new bushes all round, ball joints, UJs, new steering box, tracking) as part of a mini rebuild, it's a 1989 90.

One suggestion was the swivel preload. I have taken off the steering arm and drag link and used a scale on the passenger side wheel. One thing that confused me is using the steering arm hole, the resistance was close to 0, however using the hole for the drag link, the resistance shot up to 7.5kg ( and it's around 7.5kg on the driver side wheel too). This is with the swivel seals in place ( some say I need to remove them, some don't ).

So I am very confused as to which reading I should go off of. I think for my vehicle the reading should be between 3.5-4.5kg with the seals off. Is getting the seals off easy or will I be removing a lot of bits?

So I would be very grateful if someone could point me in the right direction (of my nearest garage maybe?). Thanks.

I am not going to go through the whole procedure, it is well described in many manuals, and on the net( try forum search^^^^^! ).

If you are not moving the spring balance at all in any hole, I would think the swivels are knackered.

As far as I remember I have usually done this without the seals on, in the process of renewing the swivel bushes, but I don't think it will matter too much. If you are worried about it, it is an easy job to remove the seal temporarily, just undo the bolts holding the seal on the back of the housing.
 
Take off the track rod too and leave the seals in place. 7.5 isn't bad, you have to account for wear and whatnot but if it's too high or too low it can be adjusted with shims. Unless it's just totally ridiculous, like 14kg, that's when you're looking at a rebuild but it's not overly difficult
 
Have a look on you tube LRTV he has videos on there that show you how to rebuild and set the preload

I did mine after watching this and i found it a huge help
 
Take off the track rod too and leave the seals in place. 7.5 isn't bad, you have to account for wear and whatnot but if it's too high or too low it can be adjusted with shims. Unless it's just totally ridiculous, like 14kg, that's when you're looking at a rebuild but it's not overly difficult

for rialko bush top pin 3.6-4.5 kg 8-10 lbs with seals off ,bearing top pin 1-1.5 kg or2-3 lbs,with no drag or track link
 
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