SWB Series IIA - Vibration & Noise

Hi all,

I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission
tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only
happens when the drive is engaged.

I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and
am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would
appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by
a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on
it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel
bearings are sound.

I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of
questions:-

(i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed
....is it easier to remove the brake drum?

(ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being
installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series
vehicles?

(iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained
for!

cheers

On 13 Aug 2004 14:38:56 -0700, [email protected] (Shaun) wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission
>tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only
>happens when the drive is engaged.
>
>I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and
>am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would
>appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by
>a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on
>it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel
>bearings are sound.
>
>I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of
>questions:-
>
>(i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed
>...is it easier to remove the brake drum?
>
>(ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being
>installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series
>vehicles?
>
>(iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained
>for!
>
>cheers

the flange bolts undo with a socket, just spin the prop till you get a
good fit with a 13 mll socket/1/2 inch the spin next nut to same
position.

as far as im aware it doesnt realy matter, whats more crucial is
LUBRICATION. but even with correct lube excessive
offroading/articulation can put severe strains on the props.
which shortens their life, abit like my steering box ( see previous
post)

andy

> Series IIa - Vibration & Noise

all part of the fun!

Shaun wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission
> tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only
> happens when the drive is engaged.
>
> I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and
> am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would
> appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by
> a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on
> it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel
> bearings are sound.
>
> I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of
> questions:-
>
> (i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed
> ...is it easier to remove the brake drum?
>
> (ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being
> installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series
> vehicles?
>
> (iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained
> for!
>
> cheers

The 180 degree stuff does matter! It is simple to check, the 'prongs of
the yolks nearest to each other on the prop should be in alignment. If
they are correctly aligned, then the prop centre speeds up and slows
down twice per revolution, but the ends run at the same speed as each
other (if their flanges are parallel) resulting in a LITTLE vibration.
If they are 180 degrees out then the flanges change speed with relation
to one another, causing MORE sever vibration, like driving on eggshaped
wheels almost! It is for this reason that the Constant velocity (CV)
joint was developed, as it does not suffer from this effect.

Also, the effect is only noticed when the propshaft is not in a
perfectly straight line, ie when its fittted on your vehicle!



||== __________________ ==||
flange || o==|PROPSHAFTSECTION|==o || flange
||== ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬ ==||

Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
;-)

Hope this helps a bit, good luck, Terry

terry wrote:
> Shaun wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission
>> tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only
>> happens when the drive is engaged.
>>
>> I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and
>> am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would
>> appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by
>> a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on
>> it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel
>> bearings are sound.
>>
>> I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of
>> questions:-
>>
>> (i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed
>> ...is it easier to remove the brake drum?
>>
>> (ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being
>> installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series
>> vehicles?
>>
>> (iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained
>> for!
>>
>> cheers
>
>
> The 180 degree stuff does matter! It is simple to check, the 'prongs of
> the yolks nearest to each other on the prop should be in alignment. If
> they are correctly aligned, then the prop centre speeds up and slows
> down twice per revolution, but the ends run at the same speed as each
> other (if their flanges are parallel) resulting in a LITTLE vibration.
> If they are 180 degrees out then the flanges change speed with relation
> to one another, causing MORE sever vibration, like driving on eggshaped
> wheels almost! It is for this reason that the Constant velocity (CV)
> joint was developed, as it does not suffer from this effect.
>
> Also, the effect is only noticed when the propshaft is not in a
> perfectly straight line, ie when its fittted on your vehicle!
>
>
>
> ||== __________________ ==||
> flange || o==|PROPSHAFTSECTION|==o || flange
> ||== ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬ ==||
>
> Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
> ;-)
>
> Hope this helps a bit, good luck, Terry

Ooops, not 180 degrees out, I meant 90 degrees....

Regards, Terry

terry wrote:

>
> Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...

Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
ever damaged by over-greasing.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply

On Saturday, in article <[email protected]>
[email protected] "EMB" wrote:

> terry wrote:
>
> >
> > Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
>
> Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
> ever damaged by over-greasing.

As long as the grease doesn't pop any sort of seal... I know of greased
bearings which have a seal to keep the dirt out, and having grease spurt
out was a bad sign.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

Shaun wrote:

> Anyhow I am on my bike until I work out how to deal with 'butchered
> nuts' oooer missus ...any tips ...would heat help? They aren't in a
> good position for sawing.
>
> Would any of those little cutting tools help or are they for
> hobby/craft work only?

Angle grinder works OK - I use a small (3") air cut off tool normally for
these. Take your time with them, and make sure the propshaft is supported
before you cut the last one!

Remember you can spin the propshaft round if you lift a back wheel - make
sure the rest are chocked, you'll have no handbrake.

Regards

William MacLeod

On Saturday, in article <[email protected]>
[email protected] "EMB" wrote:

> terry wrote:
>
> >
> > Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
>
> Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
> ever damaged by over-greasing.

As long as the grease doesn't pop any sort of seal... I know of greased
bearings which have a seal to keep the dirt out, and having grease spurt
out was a bad sign.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

Thanks for all this. I've been held up though. The last mechanic (wjo
was a professional) to disconnect the prop shaft from the output shaft
flange clearly re-used butchered nuts (thanks mate). I've therefore
only got two off. The other two I've made worse! It doesn't help the
nuts are recessed and my spanners and sockets aren't a good fit.

Anyhow I am on my bike until I work out how to deal with 'butchered
nuts' oooer missus ...any tips ...would heat help? They aren't in a
good position for sawing.

Would any of those little cutting tools help or are they for
hobby/craft work only?

Cheers

[email protected] ("David G. Bell") wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Saturday, in article <[email protected]>
> [email protected] "EMB" wrote:
>
> > terry wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
> >
> > Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
> > ever damaged by over-greasing.
>
> As long as the grease doesn't pop any sort of seal... I know of greased
> bearings which have a seal to keep the dirt out, and having grease spurt
> out was a bad sign.

terry wrote:

>
> Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...

Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
ever damaged by over-greasing.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply

On 13 Aug 2004 14:38:56 -0700, [email protected] (Shaun) wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I have a metallic 'squeaking' appearing to come from the transmission
>tunnel area now accompanied by an increasing vibration. It only
>happens when the drive is engaged.
>
>I had the UJ's on the rear prop done about 4 and a half years ago and
>am ashamed to say they have not been greased for years. It would
>appear that this has caught up with me. The rear diff was replaced by
>a sound recycled unit in April,the clutch has only about 15k miles on
>it and the gearbox/transfer box seem ok and have enough oil. Wheel
>bearings are sound.
>
>I guess rear prop is the starting point? I have a couple of
>questions:-
>
>(i) The flange bolts on the parking brake drum end are quite recessed
>...is it easier to remove the brake drum?
>
>(ii) I have ordered a new unit but have seen stuff about props being
>installed '180 degress' out of alignment. Is that irrelevant to Series
>vehicles?
>
>(iii) I take it greasing the UJ's was more crucial than I bargained
>for!
>
>cheers

the flange bolts undo with a socket, just spin the prop till you get a
good fit with a 13 mll socket/1/2 inch the spin next nut to same
position.

as far as im aware it doesnt realy matter, whats more crucial is
LUBRICATION. but even with correct lube excessive
offroading/articulation can put severe strains on the props.
which shortens their life, abit like my steering box ( see previous
post)

andy

Shaun wrote:

> Anyhow I am on my bike until I work out how to deal with 'butchered
> nuts' oooer missus ...any tips ...would heat help? They aren't in a
> good position for sawing.
>
> Would any of those little cutting tools help or are they for
> hobby/craft work only?

Angle grinder works OK - I use a small (3") air cut off tool normally for
these. Take your time with them, and make sure the propshaft is supported
before you cut the last one!

Remember you can spin the propshaft round if you lift a back wheel - make
sure the rest are chocked, you'll have no handbrake.

Regards

William MacLeod

On Saturday, in article <[email protected]>
[email protected] "EMB" wrote:

> terry wrote:
>
> >
> > Finally, as my Dad drummed into me, oil(grease) is cheaper than metal...
>
> Yep, other than greasable clutch thrust bearings on trucks, nothing was
> ever damaged by over-greasing.

As long as the grease doesn't pop any sort of seal... I know of greased
bearings which have a seal to keep the dirt out, and having grease spurt
out was a bad sign.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

Hi, sorry to redirect such an ancient post, but did you ever sort this out? I have exactly the same symptoms, and it's driving me nuts!!! Need to rule it out, if the prop shaft thing wasnt the cause.. Thanks.

That's ressurect... Not redirect...