SVS fault code 4114 - is it an easy fix?

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mikerajjers

mikerajjers

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,467
Location
Bedford UK or Trnava SK
Hi all,

I apologise if this has been asked before, I've had a look on the forum and youtube and the 'three amigos' seem to be a common fault linked to SVS failure. Got my hawkeye today and fault 4114 showed up 'shuttle valve switch electrical fail'

Car is D2 TD5 2003

I've done a search and there seems to be a mod that can be done, but I wanted to ask, how 'easy' is this to do? Do I require any specialist tools or need to detach the brake lines (not confident doing this myself)? What will I need for parts? If anyone could point me to a guide that would be much appreciated.

The fault started to manifest itself about 2 months ago...three amigos flashed, I turned ignition off and on...went away and re-appeared about 2 weeks ago. Disappeared the next morning and came on later that day and stayed on for 2 days. Didn't move the car for 2 weeks, and three amigos were gone. Came up about 2 minutes after. Plugged in hawk eye today, got fault code as above...did a youtube search and bloke on there mentioned checking for brake fluid leaks...went out just now and couldn't see a leak.

What do you think the best approach would be? Please use layman's terms :)

On a separate note...my odometer reading keeps flashing ever since I changed the speedo assembly from a Miles to Kilometers after exporting my car to Europe. The reading is lower than actual mileage...can I re-set/sync this with my hawk eye?
 
The brake fluid leak refers to fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Wabco ABS unit under the bonnet where the two shuttle valve switch solenoids are. There is a popular wiring mod to dispense with the SVS electrical failure fault.
 
The fault code is nothing to do with fluid leaks,its either failure of the micro switches or of the circuit board between the switches and the plug on the front of the modulator block.
The wiring mod does NOT require undoing any of the brake pipes,the unit can easily be lifted enough to do the job without any harm.
I usually do it with a new switch pack,soldering a piece of twin core cable onto the two wires after cutting the plug off.Not a difficult job.
 
Thanks for all replies! I saw that video earlier sierraferry, I've watched it about 10 times now and I think I understand it :)

What is the advantage of cutting and soldering in comparison to getting a new replacement module? Is it the cost?

I'll reset the odometer tomorrow as I left my car at work.
 
maybe you still dont understand well that video though;)... old or new switch pack you have to prolonge the wires out of the module and splice into the yellow green wire with one and to earth with the other to bypass the internal circuitry of the modulator cos there's the culprit...in most cases you can do that on the old unit as long as those resistance readings are OK as shown.... here is some more detailed info http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/Shuttle_Valve_Switches_Test_Proc.cfm
 
I do admit I am very much a novice with these things but i want to learn as much as I can :) I'll definitely give it a go over the weekend when I have more time. That yellow/green wire bit wasn't very clear from the video and I wanted to ask whether to splice or cut :)

I found some other links to photoguides on various forums, but none of the links seemed to work.
 
Got all the tools ready with intention to do the wiring mod on the SVS and to my amazement the 3 amigos have gone since yesterday morning. I've driven round town, did some gentle offroading with TC kicking in and the 3 amigos didn't pop up...maybe they're on holiday? Will probably put the mod on hold for the time being.

Sods law dictates that they will come up tomorrow!

At least i'll have more time rustproofing the chassis and fitting sidebars + metal bumper.

Does anyone know if I can deactivate the reversing sensors using hawkeye? I don't want to drill holes for the sensors, but nor do I want to cut them off...will just leave them hidden behind the bumper.
 
the SVS fault can be very random... it's sensitive to temperature, it occures more often when cold...you can't disable the parking sensors with hawkeye, unplug the PDC ECU and sell it
 
Right, sorted out the chassis. Decided to take day off work tomorrow and fit the tree sliders as it wasn't a simple bolt on task but will require drilling. Any ideas if the holes will need some rust protection? Or is it just aluminium in this part?

Also, three amigos are back (at 8pm on sunday)...totally could see this coming! Got all the tools ready, just looking at the wires my mate gave me I think they are a little thick...do they need to be a specific type? If so, what do I ask for at the shop?
 
Cheers Sierraferry! You are the fountain of landrover knowledge! :) I have done quite a few changes to the D2 since buying it in may. I'll post some pics up very soon in a separate thread. I've also accumulated some clutter which i hope to sell when i hit 50 posts...have a spare set of front facelift headlights (not stolen :) ) as car is LHD and previous owner had a UK set and European set. Now ive permanently exported to slovakia i dont need the uk ones.

Maybe you could give me a tip with this: i've got a set of Terrafirma 230 shocks and coils with 2" extension. Some online searches suggest I need to add longer brake lines when changing from airbags to springs. But surely if the air bags can be increased in height by 2" by pressing the lift button, then they must be long enough, no? What do you think? And what about the front axle?
 
i know to little about liftings and mechanical tunning... what i can say is that you can't completely compare the ORM height of SLS with a lift cos with the lift you can go with high speds too but the ORM will be disabled automaticaly at 18mph/30kmh so maybe if you hit a bump with higher speed it might ripp off the brake lines...i dunno
 
Right, having looked at this site... says check continuity between pin 8 and ground + pin 9 and ground.
Land Rover Troubleshooting - Test Procedure And Instructions for Shuttle Valve Switches

Problem is there isn't a pin 8 or 9 :) picture of adapter here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124023834@N07/14698021699/

14698021699


What does this mean in relation to my fault 4114? Can i still do the modulator MOD?

Cheers
 
Right, my bad...i was supposed to measure the pins, not the adaptor. Measured pin 9 and it doesn't register any value...and doesn't beep. Therefore suggesting there is no continuity. Next step do the MOD?

Cheers
 
Note that that link (although helpful) suggests you need to change the whole shuttle valve switch pack if there's a problem. Have a look on the D2 boys club site for much better (and non-invasive) solutions.
 
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