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Classic suspension question

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by hef19898, May 11, 2020.

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  1. norseman

    norseman Well-Known Member

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  2. Henry_b

    Henry_b Rover V8 Powered

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    Unimogs are good fun to drive, built like tanks too... ;)

    I fitted Police spec springs to my 91' and it improved not only the handling but the ride too, yes it was firmer but much nicer to drive...
    towing was far improved too, the Boge strut had packed in, which made the arse end stupidly low even with a small load in the back...
     
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  3. norseman

    norseman Well-Known Member

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  4. Ratae

    Ratae Well-Known Member

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  5. Ratae

    Ratae Well-Known Member

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    From the manual which assumes normal springs, not lifts.

    1.
    Check levelling unit for excessive oil leakage, if so, change unit. Slight oil seepage is permissible.

    2. Remove excessive mud deposits from underneath vehicle and any heavy items from vehicle that are not original equipment.

    3. Measure clearance between rear axle bump pad and bump stop rubber at front outer corner on both sides. Average clearance should be in excess of 67mm. If less, remove rear springs and check their free length against Road Spring Data.

    4. Replace any spring whose free length is more than 20mm shorter than figure given. If after replacing a spring the average bump clearance is still less than 67mm, replace levelling unit.

    5.
    With rear seat upright, load 450 kg into rear of vehicle, distributing the load evenly. Check bump stop clearance, with driving seat occupied.

    6. Drive vehicle for 5km (3 miles) over undulating roads or graded tracks. Stop vehicle without disturbing loading. With driving seat occupied, check bump stop clearance again.

    7. If change in clearance is less than 20mm levelling unit must be replaced
     
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  6. Kev12

    Kev12 Well-Known Member

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  7. norseman

    norseman Well-Known Member

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  8. Henry_b

    Henry_b Rover V8 Powered

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    A set of springs and shocks for mine were a few hundred quid.. ;)

    Slightly stiffer springs does wonders for them IMO ;)
     
  9. Ratae

    Ratae Well-Known Member

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    Operative word being 'slightly'!
     
  10. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    I just came to realise, there is now way to know for sure that my boge unit is still working... The rear is stiff enough that one might think the Springs are sold rods...

    Anyway, just ordered the Bilstein shocks. Won't touch the springs for now. Now I need just some time to get to work on the suspension...
     
  11. Henry_b

    Henry_b Rover V8 Powered

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    easy job..

    unless you snap off each fastener....

    "like i did"

    ahem...
     
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  12. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    I would never do that! Just ask my angle grinder!
     
  13. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    Sooo... I have a problem now. Removing the front shocks was easy enough. As was fitting. But now I just can't get enough torque to the top and bottom screws to tighten them up, the shock is always turning with the self tightening nuts... Any ideas?
     
  14. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    theres a flat on the end of the spigot you could grip with mole grips,the bottom end hold bottom of shocker where its welded with grips or strap wrench
     
  15. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    Thanks man, saved my day! Would highly appreciate so, if Bilstein made the bottom end bushing a tad smaller, grabbing the end is a major pain! Or maybe it's just me, who knows...
     
  16. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    Front shocks are in... Not sure if it was necessary so, at least I had something to do today! The rear ones are rusted in place. And them shocks need to be replaced! I guess that means another appointment at JLR next week... Well, it'll only cost me 200 bucks or so.

    And I need new tires, one has un ugly slit at the inside wall. Stuff you discover when under the car I guess...
     
  17. Ratae

    Ratae Well-Known Member

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    Is it the case that the top rubber bushes on the rears are rusted to the brackets?
    If so, cut the shock off (by cutting through the round bit at the end) & deal with the rubbers.
    You MIGHT find that the long pin on the bracket where the rubbers sit is well corroded.
    If that is the case then you need to replace the bracket - and removal might reveal chassis corrosion.
    Fun things these Range Rovers:(

    You might also find the hole on the axle bracket that the bottom of the shock goes through is corroded & much bigger than it should be.
    Easily sorted if you have a mig to hand.......(Fortunately I do!)
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
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  18. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    It is the bottom nut that just won't go off. Already had the angle grinder in hand, when I figured that doing that right under the fuel tank is maybe not such a good idea...

    Just came back from a test drive, turns out I prefer the old front shocks, so I'll train my front shock fitting skills tomorrow a little bit more. If anyone is interested in a pair of Bilstein front shocks, driven for 20 km or so, just let me know!
     
  19. Ratae

    Ratae Well-Known Member

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    Use the angle grinder & a cutting disc through the nut. Just be careful. Worked for me - on both sides.
    Happily I only needed to weld up the bottom bracket on one.
    And jamesmartin is spot on re the strap wrench - I have one for oil filters.
     
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  20. hef19898

    hef19898 Active Member

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    Thanks for the tips, will try the strap wrench as well. The angle grinder will have to wait until next week so, bank holidays and grinders don't go well together! The right one looks ok, the other one is pretty rusted.

    That's how the back looks like. IMG_20200530_141225.jpg
     
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