Freelander 1 Suspension Noise

Hi, I have a 2006 Facelift TD4 which I have a noise on the rear passengers side, the only way I can describe it is like a spare wheel rattles in a boot if it isn’t bolted down.

I have only just replaced all the suspension and bush on it, and it has only started since. I have checked every nut and bolt on it and they are all to the correct torque. The only thing I haven’t changed is the strut tops, could this be the cause?

I have stripped all the plastic out of the rear and removed the spare wheel and it is still there. 4 Wheel tracking has been done on it .

I am also getting a loud clonking noise on the front if I drop it off a curb or go over speed bumps, I have fitted new drop links and also replaced them again with another new set just to eliminate these, new front arms, bushes and TRE have been fitted so it should rule these out.

One thing I hate is noises, I am at a loss with it, anyone any idea?

Remove both drop links and take for a drive to rule out anti roll bar. There's 2 bushes on the anti roll bar that may fail, or the anti roll bar moves slightly.

J_D said:

Remove both drop links and take for a drive to rule out anti roll bar. There's 2 bushes on the anti roll bar that may fail, or the anti roll bar moves slightly.

Click to expand...

I have replaced these as well, but will give it a try, anything at this stage.

The anti roll bar collars, next to the arb Bush, sometimes rust away and the arb moves to touch one side strut.
At the rear have you done the long front to back links from hub to body?? Trailing links? The Bush can fail and then the arm touches the body, sounds awful.

andyfreelandy said:

The anti roll bar collars, next to the arb Bush, sometimes rust away and the arb moves to touch one side strut.
At the rear have you done the long front to back links from hub to body?? Trailing links? The Bush can fail and then the arm touches the body, sounds awful.

Click to expand...

Every single bush has been replaced on it, front to back.

When I get rattles, I generally carry around a load of metal things (jack, hammers etc) in the boot that rattle together and drown out and rattles the car makes.

Every now and then I take them out to see if the rattle is still there - and they eventually go.

It is a guaranteed fix. I've had plenty of rattles and clunks over the years, and this has always fixed them

J_D said:

Remove both drop links and take for a drive to rule out anti roll bar. There's 2 bushes on the anti roll bar that may fail, or the anti roll bar moves slightly.

Click to expand...

Just taken the drop links off it and the noise is still there. It has just had brand new shocks and springs on it so that should rule those out.

Check the shock to top mount nut is tight. Hold centre with Allen key.

I fitted new shocks and one came loose, replaced with nyloc.

andyfreelandy said:

Check the shock to top mount nut is tight. Hold centre with Allen key.
.

Click to expand...

Checked all of these this morning and all of them tight.

If they are both tight then there is a small chance you have a rattly strut.
I have heard of such a thing. Dunno how to prove without removing and shaking it!!!

andyfreelandy said:

If they are both tight then there is a small chance you have a rattly strut.
I have heard of such a thing. Dunno how to prove without removing and shaking it!!!

Click to expand...

The only parts I haven’t changed is the strut top mounts.

Well still looking for an answer on this one.

Rechecked every nut and bolt on the rear and it seems to be getting worse. Definitely n/s rear and almost 100% certain it is shock absorber, could it be a faulty new one?

Are you sure trailing link not touching chassis rail?
Does it do it when bounced while stationary?

andyfreelandy said:

Are you sure trailing link not touching chassis rail?
Does it do it when bounced while stationary?

Click to expand...

No noise when bounced stationary. I checked the trailing arm an that looks fine.

You have been very thorough - you described the sound as similar to an insecure spare wheel in it's stowage space. Have you considered it may be a cracked chassis rail. Most often its the front one on the driver's side but have a careful look at all four mounting points on the rear sub-frame.

htr said:

You have been very thorough - you described the sound as similar to an insecure spare wheel in it's stowage space. Have you considered it may be a cracked chassis rail. Most often its the front one on the driver's side but have a careful look at all four mounting points on the rear sub-frame.

Click to expand...

I had had all the rear subframe off as I have cleaned, painted and under sealed all the underside and I didn’t see any cracks or problems under there.

I have just ordered another trailing arm bush just to rule it out.

Have you seen this: Freelander GRAUNCH/SQUEAK FROM FRONT SUSPENSION | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

mbrokof said:

Have you seen this: Freelander GRAUNCH/SQUEAK FROM FRONT SUSPENSION | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Click to expand...

Looks like this is for the early Freelander mine is a 06 facelift. But I will have a look anyway thank you.

Applies only to the Front suspension.

ivancrx said:

Looks like this is for the early Freelander mine is a 06 facelift. But I will have a look anyway thank you.

Click to expand...

You're welcome. Yes, have seen that, but got it changed back in 2014, then again 2017 and now those shall be gone again on my 02 td4 is a bit ludicrous. Talked to LR yesterday and was wondering why that's happening in such periods. Was told it would have been because last time the car was standing for a long time due to gearbox issues. I always thought it would deteriorate if being used not w/o but had a look then and it looks if the space they mentioned isn't enough on mine therefore not sure. Will probably get it with the case to renew now.