Stuck in Superlock mode !!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

PDK1953

New Member
Posts
8
I have a 2002 Discovery 2 with alarm system issues.
help.gif


My issues were caused by the alarm activating for no apparent reason this morning at about 7am, I silenced the alarm using the key fob but now it will not operate the central locking and open the doors. It appears to still be arming and disarming the alarm (indicated by the red alarm indicator light flashing or extinquishing on the dash). The battery in the car is fully charged and in good order as is the battery in the key fob.

I can access the car via the drivers door using the key and start the engine so obviously the immobiliser is being deactivated by the key fob, but I cannot open any of the passenger doors or the rear door. The indicators, hazard warning lights and electric windows are also not working

---- All features of the "superlock" mode ---

When i lock the door using the key i get a single beep from the horn and the red alarm indicator light on the dash flashes confirming alarm is set but the indicators no longer flash when the alarm sets.

Anyone have any bright ideas as to what caused the alarm to activate and how I can deactivate the superlock. :confused: I have checked all the fuses and all seem to be ok, the car does not have a sunroof so water on the alarm ecu is unlikely.... but i cant confirm because i understand it is behind the glove box on the passenger side and i cant get to it because i cant open the nearside front door ??? I have disconnected the battery and left for ten minutes but that gave me even more problems because it activated the immobiliser (which I have now resolved)

Any suggestions would be appreciated or am i destined for a trip to a main dealer ????:(
 
Maybe it's somehow put itself into single point entry mode. If you press the unlock button a second time do the other doors unlock? Can you unlock the doors with the dash button?
 
Check the following fuses in this order:
FL3(fusible link), fuse F13 -engine bay
fuses F1*, F20, F21 - compartment under the steering wheel

* - concentrate on this one eventually measure and make sure there is voltage on it
 
Already tried, 2nd button push does nothing, dash button is not working, no indicators, no hazards.
 
The strangest thing has happened -- for which I have no explanation -- went out this morning and thought to myself "just try just in case !!!". pressed the unlock button on the fob and to my amazement the central locking worked, pushed a second time and all the doors unlocked, key into ignition, switched to pos'n II , indicators work, hazards work, dash door locking button works -- my prayers had been answered, turned the key to start ............ NOTHING ?? total silence not even trying to engage starter motor, so logically I thought flat battery, attached my emergency starter pack, which is fully charged, still total silence ......... so now thinking the immobiliser as activated again, as it did yesterday when i disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, (now thinking this was not the most sensible thing i did yesterday but used the EKA procedure and managed to deactivate the immobiliser)
Have tried the EKA procedure this morning hoping to deactivate the immobilser again but sadly to no avail
Everything is now working when ignition is switched on, you can even hear the fuel pump working, except I appear to have no power to the starter motor ... Any ideas please ??
The only thing out of the ordinary today is the odometer reading is flashing ???? mean anything to anyone ????? and yesterday in this same display to the left of the odometer and trip reading there was a digital 8 with a diagonal line across it flashing ?? this has gone today ???
Lost for ideas so any help please
 
1. I hope your battery is in good shape... if not put a charger on it over night
2. Check those fuses to be certain there's no one loosen in it's place ... it's quite common to have water ingress at the IDM(internal fusebox) or BCU(behind the glovebox... this one manages the CDL, immobiliser, odometer, etc) ... this water is coming from the windscreen seal
 
Thanks for advice so far.
Checked all fuses, all seem to be ok, glove box & undertray removed to access BCU - all seems perfectly ok - clean and dry, no sign at all of any water ingress, either now or in the past - checked all plugs & connectors, and pushed home to ensure fully seated. Used jump leads to my other car to make sure not a battery problem, no effect. Disconnected battery again and left for 20 minutes as a last ditch attempt to clear any ecu corrupt messages - Used EKA procedure again to enter vehicle with key to hopefully sync with alarm receiver - turned ignition to start ----- still total silence, other than the fuel pump and the flashing odometer.
Again everything now seems to be working as previously except starter motor refuses to recognise the ignition switch ???? Any other ideas or is this now a main dealer alarm ECU reader job ?
 
check the starter relay R2( swap with R3 headlamp wash)... also check the lucar connection at the starter motor... as long as the fuel pump works and the red LED is not continuosly on it's not immobilised...unless it's not a passive immobilisation. It's very possible that u have a BCU fault
 
Thanks for all your help, will swap relay and see what happens ............. not sure I wanted to hear the rest :) :(
 
Me neither;) ... read this and u'll be smarter:
General
The Body Control Unit (BCU) is located behind the passenger glovebox and is connected to the main harness by four connectors on its bottom edge and an additional connector located on the side of the BCU casing. Mounting the BCU
behind the fascia makes it reasonably inaccessible for intruders to disable the anti-theft system.
The BCU uses solid-state microprocessor control to perform logical operations and timing functions for a variety of the vehicle's electrically operated systems, these include:
l Door locking.
l Anti-theft alarm and immobilisation system.
l Exterior lighting including direction indicators and hazard warning lamps.
l Courtesy lighting.
l Wipers and washers.
l Electric windows and sunroof.
l Heated windows.
The BCU also communicates with several other electronically controlled systems such as the EAT ECU and SLABS ECU and also has a datalink between the Intelligent Driver Module (IDM) and the instrument pack. The datalink is a low speed bus capable of transmitting and receiving messages at a data rate of 10,400 bits per second. Additional inputs and outputs to peripheral devices are included which are necessary for determining vehicle status for particular logical operations e.g. crank, ignition key inserted, fuel flap enable etc.
The BCU receives its power supply from the engine compartment fuse box, and is protected by a 10 A fuse.
The BCU communicates with the IDM to provide the control signals to perform power switching operations in conjunction with dedicated relays.
IDM
The IDM is integrated into the passenger compartment fuse box, which is mounted behind the fascia below the steering column. There are no harnesses between the fuse box and the IDM. The IDM performs the power switching operations for several of the vehicle's electrical systems.
The IDM communicates with the BCU and the instrument pack via a serial interface. If the BCU or the IDM is replaced, the communications link between the two units has to be re-established. This can be done either by switching on the ignition and leaving it on for five minutes, or by using TestBook. The vehicle immobilisation will remain active until the communications link between the BCU and IDM has been re-established.

u can use nanocom or hawkeye instead of testbook if u need...let's hope not u dont
 
Is there anyway to bypass immobiliser to see if I can get vehicle running so I can get it to a main dealer ???? ..... nearest is 45 minutes from me ... gonna cost a small fortune to get it put on a flat bed pickup.
 
swapped relays R2 & R3 - no difference - I'm sure the flashing odometer means something ?????? .... perhaps the BCU and IDM not talking to each other because I disconnected the power supply ----- just grasping at straws now ----- just cant understand why I could start the car before I disconnected the battery but now I cant -

Something I have just remembered, when it was running with none of the other electrics working (indicators, central locking, windows etc) when i turned the ignition off the engine kept running (would suspect there is an overrun cutout also connected to the non working "other" electrics??) the only way I could stop the engine was to stall it by putting in 2nd gear, foot hard on brake and let the clutch out slowly. Since then it won't start ???? cant see how that would cause my problem but !????
 
Please please please let me know if anything worked, I now have exactly the same problem from a car I have had only about 6 weeks and so much is wrong with it. It already didn't like starting, the way you described, but we found if we pressed the unlock once more after getting in it would start so ignored this. We know there is a huge amount of water getting in, and it was raining when the alarm woke us this morning. Everything else is the same as yours - none of the buttons unlock the doors, I can still start the car with the key, Emergency Key Code makes no difference and indicators don't work.

Please Help!!
 
These sort of problems often seem to occur (well they did on mine) when water gets into the under-dash fusebox and shorts out some of the connectors.
 
I had all these problems and more. Take the under dash fuse box out. Turn it over and take the back off (you have to ease it over all the tags with a small screwdriver). You will probably find the circuit board tracks are all corroded. Problem seems to be intermittent as it dries out and sorts itself then gets wet a day or two after it rains. I got a replacement off ebay but I did ask them to take the back off and check before they sent it over.
Once you plug it in, you will have to wait for 10 minutes or so before it sorts itself out then it should all sort itself out. Don't need any programming.
Then sort out the windscreen leak.
 
BRILLIANT Thank you sooo much, after reading how much of a problem this had caused people and all the talk of main dealers I was panicking like mad - DH did exactly as you advised and yes the fuses were all full of water... he dried them out with a hairdryer and the car is all working again! Not sure where the leak actually is but until we find it I am only allowed to park on a slope so that the rain heads towards the boot!!
 
I had all these problems and more. Take the under dash fuse box out. Turn it over and take the back off (you have to ease it over all the tags with a small screwdriver). You will probably find the circuit board tracks are all corroded. Problem seems to be intermittent as it dries out and sorts itself then gets wet a day or two after it rains. I got a replacement off ebay but I did ask them to take the back off and check before they sent it over.
Once you plug it in, you will have to wait for 10 minutes or so before it sorts itself out then it should all sort itself out. Don't need any programming.
Then sort out the windscreen leak.

Exactly. The area where they get wet / corroded is at the bottom which is presumably where the water accumulates.

I too got a replacement for £20 but have cleaned up the old one and relacquered the tracks as well as soaking it in ACF50. I've also drilled some drain holes so if water does get in hopefully it'll find its way out again before doing any damage. I'll try refitting it when I get round to it and keep the s/h one as a spare if my fix has been successful.

It may be of course that voltages have been applied to the wrong places and fried something.
 
Back
Top