Strange rough when reaching idle

Did you look at the nanocom map editor software?

Cheers

In the device itself? I took a peak at it but didnät dare to push any buttons yet. I cannot find a proper manual for that. All I can find is the one on nanocom's site how to flash Td5 ECU but even that doesn't lead me to any source of maps. All I would want is to get the latest default map and flash the ECU with that to see if it would fix the rough ilde. I still can't have the AAP sensor plugged in, it makes light throttle rough to ride.

No, on the website they have a map editor software.

Download to your laptop, etc etc etc.

Cheers

northernbobber said:

In the device itself? I took a peak at it but didnät dare to push any buttons yet. I cannot find a proper manual for that. All I can find is the one on nanocom's site how to flash Td5 ECU but even that doesn't lead me to any source of maps. All I would want is to get the latest default map and flash the ECU with that to see if it would fix the rough ilde. I still can't have the AAP sensor plugged in, it makes light throttle rough to ride.

Click to expand...

I had that on my old td5 Disco... eventually number 3 injector broke

yep my no three was way off on the balance readings.........no 3 injector always the one!

I took a fault reading now after a longer ride. I get the air preassure fault (disconnected so that's probably why, if connected it gives around 100 in reading), Cooland circuit fault and problem with auto gear (weird since I have manual gear box??) i tested the injectors with the unit, all clicks equally and the readings for injectors are equally within +-5 ususally below that even. On idle they are all around 0, maybe a few goes to +-1 occationally

Change coolant temperature sensor it’s cheap and rules theatre out

My bets are on one injector being shagged... cylinder balance isn’t 100 percent accurate

Now i've done all the cheap sollutions. today i replaced the egr with the bypass kit and removed all the electronics in the right wing connected to it and plugged the one vacuum hose under it, new injector wiring harness, cleaned the crank sensor, replaced air filter and cleaned out the intake parts. Checked that the injectors corresponded with the nanocom unit. The letters were correct, but where it shows letters and a number they didn't match, letters only, that matched. Ive noticed also that when the AAP sensor is plugged and the idle is very rough the injector compensation will reach even 20 at times. But it changes between injectors, not only one. When running or even giving a slightest throttle it evens out and numbers are low again. Would the next step be concidering buying a new injector and trying to find out if one is shot or remap with fresh original map?

Speak to Alive tuning, they are regarded as the best in the world for the TD5.
If they are good enough for BMW racing to use then they are good enough for me.
Nanocom is ok but all it can do is replace the map file, it cannot really edit it.
Dont get me wrong Nanocom is a great little gadget for diagnostics but i would not really use it to re map an ecu.

If I remember right the TD5 software is 4 files*
1 Firmware
2 Fuel Map
3 Vehicle ID and info
4 Redundant

http://www.alivetuning.com/product/td5-ecu-remapping/

See link below its not as simple as just finding the file on the web and uploading.
Nanocom cannot do the stuff you see below.

http://www.discotd5.com

I guess after the first 4 or so subjects in the link you will be thinking, "i am getting the feeling i need to send my ECU to an expert" ;-)
just one thing not right can cause load sof 'false' symptoms that will lead you down all sorts of dead ends!

Just send it to Alive tuning for testing and software / fuel map update.

http://www.alivetuning.com/product/td5-ecu-remapping/

You pays your money, you takes your choice,

My 2003 def 90 TD5 has been running better than it ever has before, i wish i had done it sooner after wasting money replacing loads of perfectly good parts and many many hours and lots of swearing!

KISSMYAURA said:

Speak to Alive tuning, they are regarded as the best in the world for the TD5.
If they are good enough for BMW racing to use then they are good enough for me.
Nanocom is ok but all it can do is replace the map file, it cannot really edit it.
Dont get me wrong Nanocom is a great little gadget for diagnostics but i would not really use it to re map an ecu.

If I remember right the TD5 software is 4 files*
1 Firmware
2 Fuel Map
3 Vehicle ID and info
4 Redundant

http://www.alivetuning.com/product/td5-ecu-remapping/

See link below its not as simple as just finding the file on the web and uploading.
Nanocom cannot do the stuff you see below.

http://www.discotd5.com

I guess after the first 4 or so subjects in the link you will be thinking, "i am getting the feeling i need to send my ECU to an expert" ;-)
just one thing not right can cause load sof 'false' symptoms that will lead you down all sorts of dead ends!

Just send it to Alive tuning for testing and software / fuel map update.

http://www.alivetuning.com/product/td5-ecu-remapping/

You pays your money, you takes your choice,

My 2003 def 90 TD5 has been running better than it ever has before, i wish i had done it sooner after wasting money replacing loads of perfectly good parts and many many hours and lots of swearing!

Click to expand...

Turns out I replaced 5 perfectly good injectors, OUCH!

Yeah, the injectors will be the last one I'll go to since I could not find any obvious fault in them. I would like to try out livetuning if that could solve the issue... cheaper than injectors anyway. The thing is that since I live in finland the only way is to buy the nanocom service from them and upload my map on SD card and then email them the map and they send me a new one. At the same time I could request for a map with less turbo lag. The turbo response got better when I removed the EGR but the lag still could be less. I might also try removing the middle exhaust silencer. Some have had good results with that. But anyway remapping is my next thought.... can't find any other obvious reasons for the issue...

Well there is now some progress... I had already cleaned the red connector to the ECU before. But now I left it hanging down for a couple of hours spraying bräkleen into the contact maybe 4 times over this time. Now I am able to plug the AAP sensor back again and when the engine is warm it will still have a rough idle for 5sec when coming to a stop and then it evens out. So this is a big step forward. When cold it will still do the rough idle, maybe not as bad a before. Why do you think it is still searching for the idle when coming to letting off the throttle and slowing down? Could this be something else than oil in the wires?

why not just send ECU to Alive tuning?
cant cost that much for international shipping?

I was about to do something like that but then this huge step towards better happened so I am not sure anymore it's a ECU issue. Also I need the car on daily basis at the moment so it has to wait a little before I can send it out. They do though tune a map if you send them an sd card with your old map for the nanocom. That could be an option...

An update to recent upgrades. Ok so I have still not remapped the ecu but done meanwhile something else. I have bypassed the EGR with a blanking kit. That did a little. Then I replaced the mid silencer with the straight exhaust pipe and boy did that make a difference. First of all the delay in turbo was shortened dramatically and the car pulls like bull now, you can feel more torque and more hp. The rough idle was diminished a lot. Still has it some when starting cold but disappears pretty soon and it's not that rough anymore. And what was awesome, the puffing of white smoke during idle is gone. The car runs awesome now, a real treat as a daily ride. I will still continue to tune and see where I end up. I renewed all the brakes and next I will do the full suspension rebuild.

Check the glow plugs

sierrafery said:

Check the glow plugs

Click to expand...

What should I be looking for? it starts like a charm since I replaced a worn out starter.

northernbobber said:

The rough idle was diminished a lot. Still has it some when starting cold but disappears pretty soon and it's not that rough anymore.

Click to expand...

the glow plugs are not there only for start-up, the glow plug's post-heat operation after the engine was started is exactly to override rough running untill the engine warms up a bit

unplug each plug and mesure resistance across the terminal end head, it should be very close to 0.8 Ohm or the plug is gone

sierrafery said:

the glow plugs are not there only for start-up, the glow plug's post-heat operation after the engine was started is exactly to override rough running untill the engine warms up a bit

unplug each plug and mesure resistance across the terminal end head, it should be very close to 0.8 Ohm or the plug is gone

Click to expand...

Thanks, didn't know that the continued to work after start... I'm coming from way older vehicles . I will check that. That could be a logical cause. cheers,