Still wont start

marcustitanic · Feb 28, 2012

oh well fully charged batt on this moarning 13.8v and still the same
connected batt
put key in got mesg engine disabled
put code in tryed again no mesg just relay click
key ok doors lock with key and buttons
no need for haircut this month as ive pulled most of mine out
any other sugestions apart from a can of fuel and a box of matches:scratching_chin:

wondering if that surgestion of crackshaft possition sensor gone down is looking more likely

Saint.V8 · Feb 28, 2012

marcustitanic said:
oh well fully charged batt on this moarning 13.8v and still the same
connected batt
put key in got mesg engine disabled
put code in tryed again no mesg just relay click
key ok doors lock with key and buttons
no need for haircut this month as ive pulled most of mine out
any other sugestions apart from a can of fuel and a box of matches:scratching_chin:

wondering if that surgestion of crackshaft possition sensor gone down is looking more likely

If the EKA didn't do it....Key Fobs work on the buttons....

Only a few things left, start solenoid, starter motor, BeCM to ECU sync and the CPS.

Sync and/or CPS are the most common....

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

I can remember the MY from your first post but I think it was pre '99. If so do you get Check Engine on the dash when you turn it on. If not you have lost sync. On pre'99 models engine will not crank if sync is lost. It will on post '99 models.
If the CPS was faulty engine would spin but not start. My guess is your starter is AFU or at least has a bad / dirty connection.

marcustitanic · Feb 28, 2012

jt_armstrong said:
I can remember the MY from your first post but I think it was pre '99. If so do you get Check Engine on the dash when you turn it on. If not you have lost sync. On pre'99 models engine will not crank if sync is lost. It will on post '99 models.
If the CPS was faulty engine would spin but not start. My guess is your starter is AFU or at least has a bad / dirty connection.

nowt on dash im gona disconnect starter clean and re connect and get misses to turn key while i put metre on it to see if powers getting there

Grit Valve · Feb 28, 2012

Just because you have charged the battery does not mean its ok test for voltage and load if ok terminals tight and clean bad earth straps if clicking when trying to start this is an indication of a low battery bad earth or the solenoid on the starter motor is knackerd

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

marcustitanic said:
nowt on dash im gona disconnect starter clean and re connect and get misses to turn key while i put metre on it to see if powers getting there

If there is no check engine light on the dash then you have lost sync. Save yourself the hassel of fighting with the starter motor and get your hands on a BBS Syncmate. It needs to be for a Gems engine.

stopover · Feb 28, 2012

jt_armstrong said:
If there is no check engine light on the dash then you have lost sync. Save yourself the hassel of fighting with the starter motor and get your hands on a BBS Syncmate. It needs to be for a Gems engine.

T4 TestBook is my choice.

Datatek · Feb 28, 2012

marcustitanic said:
oh well fully charged batt on this moarning 13.8v and still the same
connected batt
put key in got mesg engine disabled
put code in tryed again no mesg just relay click
key ok doors lock with key and buttons
no need for haircut this month as ive pulled most of mine out
any other sugestions apart from a can of fuel and a box of matches:scratching_chin:

wondering if that surgestion of crackshaft possition sensor gone down is looking more likely

If nothing happens when you turn the key, it sounds like either your battery is shot or the fuse box is stuffed or there is a bad connection.
Just because you saw 13.8 volts after you charged the battery does not mean it is capable of producing the several hundred amps require to turn the starter. Put a meter on it and get the missus to turn the key and see how low the voltage drops.

marcustitanic · Feb 28, 2012

Datatek said:
If nothing happens when you turn the key, it sounds like either your battery is shot or the fuse box is stuffed or there is a bad connection.
Just because you saw 13.8 volts after you charged the battery does not mean it is capable of producing the several hundred amps require to turn the starter. Put a meter on it and get the missus to turn the key and see how low the voltage drops.

turn key ign lighton turn again and all you can here is relay clicking if you take fusebox cover off put your hand on it you can feel it click

bigsmellydaddy · Feb 28, 2012

'tis sync........................

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

marcustitanic said:
turn key ign lighton turn again and all you can here is relay clicking if you take fusebox cover off put your hand on it you can feel it click

Do any of the dashboard lights come on? If so which ones.

JohnP38 · Feb 28, 2012

If your battery is good and you get the engine check light illuminated when you turn ignition key to pos 2 then it is likely to be Relay16 in fuse box or fusebox itself,starter motor solenoid,starter motor or cabling from fusebox to solenoid.
Suggest you remove relay 16 and with a thick length of wire bridge the relay contact socket terminals.If the starter motor turns then the relay has failed.

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

JohnP38 said:
If your battery is good and you get the engine check light illuminated when you turn ignition key to pos 2 then it is likely to be Relay16 in fuse box or fusebox itself,starter motor solenoid,starter motor or cabling from fusebox to solenoid.
Suggest you remove relay 16 and with a thick length of wire bridge the relay contact socket terminals.If the starter motor turns then the relay has failed.

The OP mentioned earlier that he has nothing on his dash when i asked about the check engine light. I am beginning to think that Datatek is on the right path and the guys has problems with the fusebox.

JohnP38 · Feb 28, 2012

jt_armstrong said:
The OP mentioned earlier that he has nothing on his dash when i asked about the check engine light. I am beginning to think that Datatek is on the right path and the guys has problems with the fusebox.

His post actually says ignition light on,which I took as check engine light, as I dont know what the ignition light is.

I did qualify my post by saying that the check engine light must be on,then follow the next steps.

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

JohnP38 said:
His post actually says ignition light on,which I took as check engine light, as I dont know what the ignition light is.

I did qualify my post by saying that the check engine light must be on,then follow the next steps.

Your right and I didn't spot that. OP needs to clarify what lights he has on the dash. This would give a fairly clear direction to follow.

marcustitanic · Feb 28, 2012

jt_armstrong said:
Your right and I didn't spot that. OP needs to clarify what lights he has on the dash. This would give a fairly clear direction to follow.

sorry folks when i said ign lights on i mean the ones that come on everytime you turn the key normally ie oil batt ect ( the ones that go out after it starts) well used to

no mesg on computer key fobs working locks and c locking
its just like sommebody ran off with the engine ( i did check living where i do)

dont think im not gratefull for info but well confused with this syc info
if it is that i take it its a garage job and is it true you cant tow it there thanks

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

Fingers crossed a photo of my dash lights is attached. The important light is the one on the right. It says Check Engine. Do you see this one?

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

Take two.

marcustitanic · Feb 28, 2012

jt_armstrong said:
Take two.

NOPE aint got that one just checked

jt_armstrong · Feb 28, 2012

Bingo. You have lost sync. Get yourself a Syncmate or someone with some Land Rover diagnostic equipment. I would recommend the Syncmate cause it will happen again and you can keep it in the glove box to bail you out in the future.

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