still chasing brake problem

DCUNNINGHAM said:

The prop situation seems more trouble than it's worth I was under the impression people remove them for fuel saving and centre bearing failed

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Having a functioning 4X4 system makes the Freelander so much better to drive and other than keeping the tyres to LR specification, is no trouble at all.
There's no useful fuel savings by removing the propshafts and often an insurance premium increase due to it being modified from build specification.

So it's a 1.8 petrol I'm guessing then.
Definitely restore the 4X4 as the 1.8 spins its wheels for a past time as a FWD.

Nodge68 said:

Having a functioning 4X4 system makes the Freelander so much better to drive and other than keeping the tyres to LR specification, is no trouble at all.
There's no useful fuel savings by removing the propshafts and often an insurance premium increase due to it being modified from build specification.

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That's why I want to put the prop back on I like all things to be as they were it was meant to be 4 wheel drive not 2 just need to test the vcu I presume I just stop one end of prop moving and try turn other

DCUNNINGHAM said:

That's why I want to put the prop back on I like all things to be as they were it was meant to be 4 wheel drive not 2 just need to test the vcu I presume I just stop one end of prop moving and try turn other

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This is the Bell Engineering video. So you need to do something like that.

If it's only 70k miles then I would assume all is well with the drive train. It would be unusual (but not impossible) for the VCU to stiffen enough to cause damage at that mileage. If you bought the prop shaft second hand then you must assume the VCU is shot until you confirm otherwise.
+1 wot Nodge says about wheel spin in a K series. I've driven a K series 2wd and it wasn't pleasant, it also understeered everywhere. The Doozle I have now is 2wd atm and you'd hardly notice it.

My IRD was trashed at about 75k miles. That was due to a tyre losing air. So it can happen at any time. In my instance, the bearings were shot leading to a number of crown/pinion gear teeth being broken. When it went bang - I presume as the teeth were broke - it made a hell of a noise. It would drive - but made a hell of a noise. Even when it was pushed, every cycle of the IRD resulted in a cringing load metallic bang as (I presume) shaftes were pushed off-center and gear rubbed over each other.

When I removed the prop, the car drove normally. There was a feint ticking noise that might not even be picked up if you didn't know there was damage.

Nodge68 said:

This is the Bell Engineering video. So you need to do something like that.

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About 15 seconds in that vid.

Right I removed my rear cv joint the other day the abs ring was snapped so I need a new cv joint and abs ring
Does it matter if the new cv joint has the abs ring already on it the chassis no matches my car

The Mad Hat Man said:

About 15 seconds in that vid.

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FROM what I can work out from vid I put one shaft in a vice and a weight on other and it should turn slowly

DCUNNINGHAM said:

Right I removed my rear cv joint the other day the abs ring was snapped so I need a new cv joint and abs ring
Does it matter if the new cv joint has the abs ring already on it the chassis no matches my car

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It should have an ABS ring on every wheel. Just replace the ring, if you can't find a complete joint with ring.

DCUNNINGHAM said:

FROM what I can work out from vid I put one shaft in a vice and a weight on other and it should turn slowly

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The faster the lever end of the VCU rotates, the less stiff the VCU is. The less stiff it is, the less damage it does to the IRD/ diff.

Nodge68 said:

The faster the lever end of the VCU rotates, the less stiff the VCU is. The less stiff it is, the less damage it does to the IRD/ diff.

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I've bought a cv joint with abs ring on will it fit that's what I'm asking

DCUNNINGHAM said:

I've bought a cv joint with abs ring on will it fit that's what I'm asking

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Which joint did you buy?

Nodge68 said:

Which joint did you buy?

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I bought a rear outer cv joint with abs ring fitted
My old one had a separate abs ring but the new one is for my chassis code

The rear joints are different for pre and post MY2000. So up to chassis YA99 is the early joint.
A1 chassis onwards is the later joint.

DCUNNINGHAM said:

I bought a rear outer cv joint with abs ring fitted
My old one had a separate abs ring but the new one is for my chassis code

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Can you post pictures of what you have?

Nodge68 said:

Can you post pictures of what you have?

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My chassis no is 1a the new cv joint is for chassis no1a
Will post a pic when I get home

Nodge68 said:

Can you post pictures of what you have?

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This is the new one but my old one doesn't have abs ring attached

And what do you think is wrong with that joint? If it says it's for a 1A onwards and yours is a 1A, then it should be fine.

Because my old one had a separate abs ring i was questioning weather i would have problems with it