Steve's unexpected Series 3 rebuild.

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A bit of an aside today.
No time today to do too much so just tidied up the garage and then had a quick look at the fuel pump.
The amount of sediment in the glass filter was unbelievable.
Honestly why did I buy this land rover? With hindsight all the signs that it had been neglected were there. Never mind.
Initially I thought it was rust that had been dragged up from the tank. I put a magnet over it to see but there's nothing metal in there. Just crud then.
I gave the bowl a really good clean up and it was really satisfying.
 
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I'm bitting and bobbing about too much at the moment. A little bit of one job, hit a snag, go onto something else. Now I've got loads of half done jobs. New years resolution - get my bloody self organised.
The timing cover is off. I was sure I would have a lot of trouble with the starter dog. I was looking into buying a socket to fit but then in a load of old spanners that belonged to my dad I found one that fitted. I chocked the crank with a piece of wood, got the spanner on the nut and then gave it a little tickle with a rubber mallet. Off it came. Who's a clever boy then?
It has obviously been leaking badly from the front crank oil seal so a new one is on the cards and there's a ridge in the back of the pulley so I think it will have to go as well.
I'm going to tap threads into the holes for the dust cover instead of riveting it. I've seen it done on tinterweb so you can replace the oil seal without having to remove the timing cover. M4 seems to be the size to go for.
The keen eyed amongst you may have noticed from the picture above of the cover with the water pump removed that there is another problem. More to follow.
 
LincolnSteve said:
View attachment 137749 View attachment 137750 View attachment 137752 View attachment 137753 I'm bitting and bobbing about too much at the moment. A little bit of one job, hit a snag, go onto something else. Now I've got loads of half done jobs. New years resolution - get my bloody self organised.
The timing cover is off. I was sure I would have a lot of trouble with the starter dog. I was looking into buying a socket to fit but then in a load of old spanners that belonged to my dad I found one that fitted. I chocked the crank with a piece of wood, got the spanner on the nut and then gave it a little tickle with a rubber mallet. Off it came. Who's a clever boy then?
It has obviously been leaking badly from the front crank oil seal so a new one is on the cards and there's a ridge in the back of the pulley so I think it will have to go as well.
I'm going to tap threads into the holes for the dust cover instead of riveting it. I've seen it done on tinterweb so you can replace the oil seal without having to remove the timing cover. M4 seems to be the size to go for.
The keen eyed amongst you may have noticed from the picture above of the cover with the water pump removed that there is another problem. More to follow.
Click to expand...
they used to do a special self tapper screw for the oil seal shield,no tapping required
 
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I thought the timing cover refurb would be a pleasant job. Dead simple, not too much thinking needed. Just degrease, clean up, wire brush on the grinder paint and put it back together. As you can see from the above it isn't. That's where the bolt goes through that holds the alternator bracket.
So my options are to replace or to try to repair. The part numbers in the book for the timing cover are 554541 or ERC9446. Nobody seems to have 554541 but Craddocks have ERC9446 for £26 + VAT. I've just got to establish that it is the correct part as it's listed as 'late series 3' and mines not late. I'm hoping that it will fit either.
As long as it is suitable then I might have a bash at repairing mine first. Then if I make a total arse of it I can easily get the replacement.
I have been reading about repairing cast iron. Pre heat or not, mig, tig, stick, stopping it cooling too quick to avoid cracking and all that. It sounds really interesting. It will have to be mig because that's all I've got. I've only got mild steel wire and if I'm going to buy a reel of stainless wire then I might as well just get a new cover.
I'll keep reading and ring Craddocks and when I've got more info I will decide what to do.
 
jamesmartin said:
they used to do a special self tapper screw for the oil seal shield,no tapping required
Click to expand...
That is really handy. Thanks for that. Strangely though I'm such an anorak that I really like tapping threads. Good old father in law has every tap and die nut imaginable so I don't even have to buy them. :)
 
I tried to tap my front cover when I changed the seal. Tap broke in the hole so I ended up getting the local machine shop to sort out the mess and finish the job properly :oops::rolleyes:
i know when you mean about going from one half-arsed job to the next, it can be very frustrating at times.

I'd definitely try repairing the cracked casting first. I had to man up a bit to re-core the rad but it was hugely rewarding in the end.
 
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So I spoke to Craddocks. 554541 is no longer available. ERC9446 will not fit. There is another part number STC321 which is apparently the military version which might fit.
Anyway I am fed up with part numbers and so I thought I would just have a go at welding the bugger.
As we all know youtube makes anything possible so I had a look to see how them good ol' redneck boys on there do it.
The two techniques seem to be hot and fast or cool and slow. I had to go for cool and slow as I don't have the kit to heat it enough.
So I ground the crack out to clear out the crap, rust and muck and drilled holes to stop it spreading.
Then I thought I would get it a bit hotter to stop some of the temperature shock when I started welding.
Luckily she who must be obeyed went off to Tesco so I took the opportunity to bung the whole lot in the oven for a bit. I even put some kiln dried sand in there so that I could cover the casting with it to hold the temperature better. I thought I'd got away with that but the second she walked back in the house she knew.
So it's all good and hot and I've insulated it as much as I can so it's welding time. I stuck that thermometer in the damaged hole for a guide.
The welding went ok to start with and I think it penetrated well. I went over it again and managed to make it extremely ugly but hopefully a bit stronger.
I covered it with sand and stuck the thermometer back in to monitor the temperature. I left it to cool as slowly as possible.
I'm fighting the urge to grind it right back to it's original shape. My obsessive nature makes me want to return it to how it looked originally but I'm sure I would take whatever strength there is out of it if I did that.
I did grind some of the ugly off it. The top had to be made smooth so I did that. I'm sure there's a hint of a crack so I doubt I've heard the last of this. I did put a nut and bolt through it and gave it a really good tighten and even a few good taps with a hammer. If it is going to fail I would rather it did it now.
I suppose the big test will be when the engine is warming and cooling and the alternator is sending vibration through it. We'll have to see what happens then.
Ok, photos now. I seem unable to control where photos and text end up these days so bear with me if this ends up a disjointed mess. Also I'm a bit ****ed. Well it is new years eve. Haven't even started on the Christmas present scotch yet! Happy new year to you all.
 
LincolnSteve said:
View attachment 138043 View attachment 138044 View attachment 138045 View attachment 138046 View attachment 138049 View attachment 138050 View attachment 138051 View attachment 138052 View attachment 138053 View attachment 138054 So I spoke to Craddocks. 554541 is no longer available. ERC9446 will not fit. There is another part number STC321 which is apparently the military version which might fit.
Anyway I am fed up with part numbers and so I thought I would just have a go at welding the bugger.
As we all know youtube makes anything possible so I had a look to see how them good ol' redneck boys on there do it.
The two techniques seem to be hot and fast or cool and slow. I had to go for cool and slow as I don't have the kit to heat it enough.
So I ground the crack out to clear out the crap, rust and muck and drilled holes to stop it spreading.
Then I thought I would get it a bit hotter to stop some of the temperature shock when I started welding.
Luckily she who must be obeyed went off to Tesco so I took the opportunity to bung the whole lot in the oven for a bit. I even put some kiln dried sand in there so that I could cover the casting with it to hold the temperature better. I thought I'd got away with that but the second she walked back in the house she knew.
So it's all good and hot and I've insulated it as much as I can so it's welding time. I stuck that thermometer in the damaged hole for a guide.
The welding went ok to start with and I think it penetrated well. I went over it again and managed to make it extremely ugly but hopefully a bit stronger.
I covered it with sand and stuck the thermometer back in to monitor the temperature. I left it to cool as slowly as possible.
I'm fighting the urge to grind it right back to it's original shape. My obsessive nature makes me want to return it to how it looked originally but I'm sure I would take whatever strength there is out of it if I did that.
I did grind some of the ugly off it. The top had to be made smooth so I did that. I'm sure there's a hint of a crack so I doubt I've heard the last of this. I did put a nut and bolt through it and gave it a really good tighten and even a few good taps with a hammer. If it is going to fail I would rather it did it now.
I suppose the big test will be when the engine is warming and cooling and the alternator is sending vibration through it. We'll have to see what happens then.
Ok, photos now. I seem unable to control where photos and text end up these days so bear with me if this ends up a disjointed mess. Also I'm a bit ****ed. Well it is new years eve. Haven't even started on the Christmas present scotch yet! Happy new year to you all.
Click to expand...

Well I didn't think it would go that well!

I assume you've managed to get a face centred cubic structure to fuse with a hexagonally closed packed structure?
 
Stretch said:
Well I diseriouslyk it would go that well!

I assume you've managed to get a face centred cubic structure to fuse with a hexagonally closed packed structure?
o_O Err.......yeah.

The trick will be to get it to last. I seriously doubt that i've actually got it right and i'm sure there are weaknesses within that nasty looking weld that will find their way out in the end. It just needs to last as long as possible. It will just have to go on the list of parts to try to keep in stock for when the time comes.
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I reckon that fix has every chance of success. I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted. But saying that I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't!

I think you're doing the right thing - just see how it goes.

In the mean time perhaps a WTB advert on the forum wouldn't be a bad thing because after all what are garages and roof spaces for if they're not places where you can store Land Rover parts?
 
Opinions please.

Would you replace the core plugs as a matter of course?

They aren't weepy but they are rusty. It would help me to clean out any silt in the waterways but I might end up making them leaky.

What would you do?
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LincolnSteve said:
Opinions please.

Would you replace the core plugs as a matter of course?

They aren't weepy but they are rusty. It would help me to clean out any silt in the waterways but I might end up making them leaky.

What would you do?View attachment 139272 View attachment 139273 View attachment 139275
Click to expand...
I wouldn't automatically replace the core plugs on the basis that most new things these days are not as good as the old

A bit pessimistic I know

I'd mechanically remove as much rust from the block and the water ways as possible. I'd then reconnect everything with old hoses and fill with a citric flush (as per instructions on bottle etc). After flushing through I'd replace hoses and tackle any leaks if they arise.
 
It's been a long time since I have been on here so not sure if anyone is still watching. Work has been slowly progressing. photos soon.

One quick question in the meantime, should you use anything on the head gasket such as sealer, hylomar, oil or grease. I'm thinking the answer is no but just checking. Thanks.
 
LincolnSteve said:
It's been a long time since I have been on here so not sure if anyone is still watching. Work has been slowly progressing. photos soon.

One quick question in the meantime, should you use anything on the head gasket such as sealer, hylomar, oil or grease. I'm thinking the answer is no but just checking. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I'm still watching - we've still got a race on! (Even though I've been arsing about with a sodding Volvo of all things - silliest tangent yet - crikey I thought the tool storage trolley was bad and then the sand blasting cabinet and then the centrifugal dust extraction system - Volvo - "quick project" - what was I thinking...)

As for Hylomar on a head gasket - it doesn't need it with a ferrous metal block and ferrous metal head but if you wanted to use the Hylomar spray then it might help a touch (I think I did do that for good measure when I put my diesel engine back together).

The Hylomar spray does help, however, with dissimilar metalled block and head combinations - my M102 (Mercedes engine) suffers from corrosion around the head gasket area (got a steel block and an aluminium alloy head) and the good old Hylomar can help reduce this problem. Original engined series Land Rovers don't really need Hylomar on the head gaskets - though it seems like the book says they have to have it smeared on virtually every other bit!
 
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So a lot of catching up to do. I still have absolutely no control over the order of the photos or where the text goes so we'll just have to muddle through. Some of this stuff dates back to January or February so is already fading from the memory.
I got stuck into the engine. It does seem that it's generally in good order with not much wear.
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