steering damper and drop arm - dry dry dry

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RUDDdefender90

New Member
Posts
416
Location
Norwich, UK
hi guys.

My steering damper is dry, and the drop arm and joints etc are bone dry. I have attached pictures.

Under the duster (drop arm joint), where the grass bit is coming out is bone dry and rusty as hell.
landy%20dec%202009%20025.jpg


No greasy nipples to use either.

I tried pushing and wiggling the damper but no movement. When I push the damper up towards chasis, it makes a knocking sound like its hiting a bit of metal at the drop arm end.

My steering seems fine, but then this is my first landy and I have no doubts this problem was present when I got it 4-5 months back so nothing to compare it to.

Can you guys give me any advice on this? I assume I need to get replacements? any pointers on cost? Can a novice change it over etc.

Thanks in advance

landy%20dec%202009%20025.jpg
 

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one of the guys said they looked dry and MIGHT need replacing. The whole damper and everything is bone dry and does not move or anything. No grease in the damper and its a movement component right. Am wondering how you would grease it up, if no nipple. I cant say there is any steering issues or noises or anything thats strange, as far as I am aware of.
 
one of the guys said they looked dry and MIGHT need replacing. The whole damper and everything is bone dry and does not move or anything. No grease in the damper and its a movement component right. Am wondering how you would grease it up, if no nipple. I cant say there is any steering issues or noises or anything thats strange, as far as I am aware of.

Damper is oil filled it's a shock absorber. and is a sealed unit. it's job is to dampen the steering to prevent excessive vibration or movement in the steering.

Ball joints are filled with greased and then sealed if the rubber seal splits then the grease can escape. some are refillable and will have a grease nipple if this is the case. Your mate sounds like he's been spouting off to sound as if he knows what he;s on about.
 
the steering damper does the same job as a 'shock absorber' for your wheels, would you grease them? the drop arm ball joint i would consider replacing as the boot has come off at the bottom this would allow mud and grit into the ball which would cause wear. t'other one appears ok
 
I think I must have read to much into it, due to me inexperiances and all. You guys have put my wee mind to rest tho :). So the twisty looks fine, should I try and look inside tho? to see if its greasy, or could this infact then make it useless as I have destroyed the "seal" bit of the ball joint.

Regards to replacing the drop arm ball joint, is this a pricey afair and are there ones that are prefered over others, and also is it something a novice could replace? What happens if this is not replaced, would it affect other components of the steering system etc...
 
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I think I must have read to much into it, due to me inexperiances and all. You guys have put my wee mind to rest tho :). So the twisty looks fine, should I try and look inside tho? to see if its greasy, or could this infact then make it useless as I have destroyed the "seal" bit of the ball joint.

Regards to replacing the drop arm ball joint, is this a pricey afair and are there ones that are prefered over others, and also is it something a novice could replace?


Don't tamper with the seal. changing is fairly easy if ya any good with a spanner. If not get some one who is, to do it for you.
 
Damper is oil filled it's a shock absorber. and is a sealed unit. it's job is to dampen the steering to prevent excessive vibration or movement in the steering.

Ball joints are filled with greased and then sealed if the rubber seal splits then the grease can escape. some are refillable and will have a grease nipple if this is the case. Your mate sounds like he's been spouting off to sound as if he knows what he;s on about.


ermmmm, that'll be me then;):D
If ye look at the state of the rubber boot, it's a bit fecked. Chances are there will be all sorts o' ****e gettin' in there and rustin' it up.
Ah forgot that ah had knicked the bottom plate of the white bus that me mate had fitted a grease nipple to... so that was my mistake in mentionin' it:doh:
 
was under the landy today. I was able to swivel the damper, at the drop arm ball joint end. It then moved the actual drop arm ball joint itself and the under part of the damper. Is this normal?
 
got a price of £28 plus vat today for a genuine landrover drop arm ball joint at my local garage. But, a non gen I have found at pannock spares is £7 inc post due to offer. What should I buy? when the differeance is so much, is it not always the right option to get the geniune part?
 
got a price of £28 plus vat today for a genuine landrover drop arm ball joint at my local garage. But, a non gen I have found at pannock spares is £7 inc post due to offer. What should I buy? when the differeance is so much, is it not always the right option to get the geniune part?

the original drop arm joint on my 110 lasted 18 years - the non original replacement lasted less than 2

i'll leave you to do the maths
 
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