Steep learning curve

Sharp metal edge?

Paper cut?

Cheers

Tiger?

blue beasty said:

Tiger?

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Leopard but close!

Cutting disc yes. Lack of respect I guess. For some stupid reason I went to adjust the guard before it had finished spinning. What a tw*t

resto_d1 said:

Aaaaaannnnd that's me done for this eve
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Good effort!! How many stitches?!

The first of many

I too am complacent of the whizzy whirry things and often regret it!

I can't see stitches working there lol. Salt water wash and stuck back together

Hicap phill said:

Get scrubbing.... get some
Mechanix gloves. Yep expensive but this don't happen

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Would you recommend Phil? Now seems madness to not get some decent gloves but not sure which are worth going for? Don't mind buying decent ones if they'll give a second to act. Was far too complacent

Gloves... go the local safety shop & try some on. You will need a few styles
Ones that don't burn when welding
Ones that don't burn when grinding
Ones that you can pick/hold the steel while fabrication takes place.

& don't forget decent safety glasses, it's not good having metal removed from your eye

thanks Phil. I can get all PPE from the tool man at work - he comes round and I can pick stuff out the catalogue which is handed. I'll ask him to bring in some sets. I needed welding gloves anyway. My welding helmet actually doubles up for grinding which Is good - has a grinding only switch on.

My sender cover was rotten through and I need a 27mm socket prior to doing anymore on car (never ever lend tools out!). So, I decided to practice fab and welding work. It's never going to be precision engineering but if it' fit for purpose I'm happy

Few more welds to do tomorrow then I'll sand off a bit and seal up.

Back on it for another eve today. Shock gaitor was full of what was like wet postcrete. Whipped out spring by removing little retaining bracket. Couldn't work out how to remove the dislocation cones? A wafer thin spanner? Also how do you remove bottom shock bolt as shock spins? Well happy with how easy things are to take apart - I think it's worth doing a axle overhaul whilst boot floor is out. Few bushes I've seen I'd like to change

clamp shock tube with exhaust clamp and a bar.

As above, or use an oil filter wrench to hold it.

Cheers

Cheers gents. I was actually thinking of using a chain filter wrench as one in the box. Any ideas for the dislocation cone?

So f*****g rusty!!!

I feel like this is going to be pretty much all replaced at the rear. Thanks for tip on filter wrench - got there in end with it.
Under the perch seems solid touch wood. Around the shock mount looks almost dented and needs a patch. Looks like I may need a patch under bump stop too. @dieseldog69 do you know how the crush tubes are held in place? I'd obviously want to cut a section which will involve more than one of them...

Not too bad but that pitting is deep!!!

Strap wrench on the shock body, the dislocation cones are a nut and bolt affair and I got mine on with a couple of ring spanners, you should have quite easy access from inside with the floor out

You really are going to have to cut that bit out around the top shock mounts, too thin for my liking, those end plates on the tubular cross member are gonna need a good bit of work too.

dieseldog69 said:

Not too bad but that pitting is deep!!!

Strap wrench on the shock body, the dislocation cones are a nut and bolt affair and I got mine on with a couple of ring spanners, you should have quite easy access from inside with the floor out

You really are going to have to cut that bit out around the top shock mounts, too thin for my liking, those end plates on the tubular cross member are gonna need a good bit of work too.

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Cheers. End plates are ****ed mate. How do I play it with the crush tubes?

resto_d1 said:

Cheers. End plates are ****ed mate. How do I play it with the crush tubes?

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Bit of CAD (cardboard assisted design) will help here, take card big enough to cover all rot being cut out, cut as a template, wallop bolts through to mark holes and use a hole punch to make them oversize to accommodate the crush tubes, I like a 1 to 1.5mm gap all round the tube to ensure perfect welding in of the tubes, cut the rot out and grind round the tubes to clean them back or buy some new tube and fit new, it's up to you, geometry is not affected so you can be a half inch out without worry.

If you want I will try to explain with pics when I gets home tonight.

What is the chassis rail like under them caps? Bet its shot to bits too