Steep learning curve

outer arch with inner arch repair kit ordered from froggats along with a rear body mount kit. The rear body mount kit may not be 100% necessary but theres so much bodging, pidgeon sh!t and untidiness that I'd rather chop the whole lot down to the box section sills and be 100% happy with my repair. This all takes a big amount of time. Rome wasn't built in a day! I am fairly happy with progress though and its nice to be able to get time to spend on it. I try to look at one section at a time otherwise I just stand there poking and staring lol.

My plan:

Weld in new c Pillar place whilst its still attached to outer arch

Weld in inner arch repair panel then sheet off that where required. I was going to do away with the rear belt mount but it acts as a datum now and is included in repair piece.

Weld angle off inner arch to marry up to outer arch spot weld joint (where the seal sits)

Cut out box section sill around rear mount and weld in body mount repair kit

Chop out boot side panel around arch and weld in new plate on arch once accessible.

Plug weld and outer arch repair panel to my new inner and weld up to the mount repair panel.

Jobs a good'un.

Will also be chopping and welding chassis as I go where required!!

Well that's my first chop out and replace section done. I'm much more confident with the thin than the 2mm. Need to find a sweet spot still on 2mm. Anyone else using a 150/160t Clarke? Was going at 3 min setting with 7 wire speed. I think the manual guide is wrong as read so on migwelding forum so have gone with a 're written one. The fillet joint also made things harder. Oh well it's solid and actually exists now!

its a black art

The Mad Hat Man said:

its a black art

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It is. Was practicing running beads on a 2mm plate yest at 2 max rather than 3 min. I could see the root through other side so penetration is good. I'm happy about that as welded my c pillar a little hotter. My arch bits just turned up from froggats.

Writing down records now for these welds on my phone. After some advice for @dieseldog69 I have the 1.2mm to 2mm sorted. Too. Urchfab on YouTube has some good vids. 2mm onto 1.2mm body is a case of using 2mm settings and targeting the 2mm bit then quickly pulling pool onto the monkey metal then back onto 2mm

resto_d1 said:

It is. Was practicing running beads on a 2mm plate yest at 2 max rather than 3 min. I could see the root through other side so penetration is good. I'm happy about that as welded my c pillar a little hotter. My arch bits just turned up from froggats.

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any reason you chose Froggats over YRM?

The Mad Hat Man said:

any reason you chose Froggats over YRM?

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No I don't think so. I will be getting boot kit from yrm though.

Tonight's taken me back a bit. Since learning a bit more about land rovers I'm realising how gullible I was buying this crock of sh*t. It's so rotten. How much is too much repair chassis wise? She needs patching around both suspension mounts, and new out rigger on o/s. I've just got under the o/s rear to have a butcher's as only been on n/s so far and it's worse. If I wasn't so stubborn I think I'd give up!

anything can be repaired with enough time and money.

The Mad Hat Man said:

anything can be repaired with enough time and money.

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Not necessarily in that order ...

No rule of too much patching etc? I need to chop a big section around out rigger on o/s and around the suspension mount. Also need to do mount on n/s. The rear body mount on o/s Isn't actually connected to the body...

i found it was better to replace panels rather than patch.

The Mad Hat Man said:

i found it was better to replace panels rather than patch.

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When I say patch I do mean butt weld rather than bodge over. Chassis wise, are we ok yo chop and replace whatever is rotten without risking reduced integrity?

use 3mm at least.

The Mad Hat Man said:

use 3mm at least.

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Had and read a lot of mixed opinion on this. It would definitely be easier for me to do 2mm if she's 2mm standard as it will be a thickness match and I can just use a straight forward run rather then targeting the thick and lapping onto the thin...

resto_d1 said:

Had and read a lot of mixed opinion on this. It would definitely be easier for me to do 2mm if she's 2mm standard as it will be a thickness match and I can just use a straight forward run rather then targeting the thick and lapping onto the thin...

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I think the reasoning behind it is that the corrosion takes place in potentially weak areas, so by beefing it up, you get increased life expectancy of the repair. That might, of course, just be bull .

The Mad Hat Man said:

I think the reasoning behind it is that the corrosion takes place in potentially weak areas, so by beefing it up, you get increased life expectancy of the repair. That might, of course, just be bull .

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Theory does make sense. Its just the confidence in welding different thickness that puts me off a bit.

Confidence is always the limiting factor. It reduces in proportion to your age .

The Mad Hat Man said:

Confidence is always the limiting factor. It reduces in proportion to your age .

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Interesting. I have found the reverse. I will be dead soon, might as well go for it!

I'm still young as far as Landy owners go but definitely find it more difficult to find f$cks to give as time goes

If 2mm is enough, I'd rather go for it as I will have more confidence executing the repair. I do have a big sheet of three if its not though As when I initially did steel order I thought all chassis repairs were to be made in 3mm.