Steep learning curve

dieseldog69 said:

Yep +2" lift and running 235/85 16 tyres (32" in old money), I ran standard height for about 5yrs and only lifted it to get a bit more clearance on articulation.



What size are your current tyres?

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I can't remember I did look earlier. Had to get two fitted to the rear of the daily this morn! I'm sure yours didn't look as high. Does it drive pretty straight on dual carriageway etc?

resto_d1 said:

I can't remember I did look earlier. Had to get two fitted to the rear of the daily this morn! I'm sure yours didn't look as high. Does it drive pretty straight on dual carriageway etc?

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if it dont, yu need camber adjusted hockey sticks.

The Mad Hat Man said:

if it dont, yu need camber adjusted hockey sticks.

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Mine was trying to kill me when I drove it back. Speedy was jumping as much as drive. Could be trailing arms, a frame ball or any of the upfront stuff lol.

Do we think I could cut out and repair that sky window using a joggler? I need to match the recess perfectly for the glass seal to fit

resto_d1 said:

I can't remember I did look earlier. Had to get two fitted to the rear of the daily this morn! I'm sure yours didn't look as high. Does it drive pretty straight on dual carriageway etc?

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Drives better since the lift and the steering actually centres again.

I's a suck it and see thing as with all things Land Rover there are specially inbuilt tolerances that vary wildly between two identical vehicles off theproduction line one after the other.

resto_d1 said:

Mine was trying to kill me when I drove it back. Speedy was jumping as much as drive. Could be trailing arms, a frame ball or any of the upfront stuff lol.

Do we think I could cut out and repair that sky window using a joggler? I need to match the recess perfectly for the glass seal to fit

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Don't think you could get sufficient profile step with jogglers, do you remember the Z strip for the boot floor? Look to see how that matches up for profile.

get the window section from a scrapper. yu wont know until yu remove yours.

Good points both. Was thinking I could just chop a perimeter around out a breaker and weld back in. Vid above makes it look easy. Didn't even think of z profile. Boot kit and cross member kit need ordering as one. I doubt I'll have both until Sept but will see what I have in pot end of month.

easy to bend that up

The Mad Hat Man said:

easy to bend that up

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Not sure he has a bender? Must admit the last bender I went on lasted 4 days cost €800 and saw me end up in Slovakia in the back of a truck, oh happy days

Can someone draw what is reqd up? I reckon a couple of feet of 2” wide steel bent to a Z?...

Loads of peeps with a bender... even a big vice might do it!

I could yes, just not sure how to measure the angles. I've a funny feeling that boot z will fit too or at least will be able to be modified to fit. That's only if I have left overs mind.

Bit of cardboard cut as a template

I have emailed a guy off ebay with a breaker with clean surrounds and its looking like 30 posted for him to chop out for me so I can weld in whole thing......

It is amazing what you can (hopefully) achieve with a cutting disc, welder, grinder and imagination .

Did a bit more to the roof window bar repair (I'm just making up my own component names haha) and brushed back little areas that would soon become big. I dog out some of the rust enhancer from the rust gutter and brushed that back a bit too. Going to get some deox into it with a screwdriver and see what I can do. I could do with a rust converter too for these areas but don't have much faith in them. I then keyed the area where I'd been working and etched the bare parts. After that I mixed up this epoxy mastic. At first I thought I'd messed up mixture as seemed was too runny. I then realised it was some kind of cold war chemical. I literally etched into my gloves and stuck the fingers together. Places where it looked like it wasn't going to stick right on the existing paint healed themselves over. It sticks like sh*t to a blanket. A little went a long way too! Definitely going to be the way forward for the chassis and seems perfect follow on from electrox. Once I've done the rust gutter and the patches in the roof bar I'll continue with this stuff. I'm going to do pretty much everywhere that's not on show when doors are shut.

looking good

wots the poxy mastic yu used. name names.

Cheers. It looks so much tidier with the primer and sealer covered. It's actually called epoxy mastic on the bilt hamber site. When I went to buy electrox I went hunting for best follow up coat and this was it. I think uv does chalk it up but that doesn't bother me. It's top coatable anyway

https://www.bilthamber.com/epoxy-mastic

Here's the blurb. Just seen even this has zinc in it. Disco will be 5 tonne when I'm done lol

How much coverage you getting from that 1ltr tin?