Station wagon rear body removal.

Is there a specific way to remove the rear body on the station wagon and, when I have unbolted everything, how easy is it to lift off?
Is it a case of I'll need a couple of mates or, do I need something like a fork lift, etc?

I want to get it off to do some fairly extensive repairs to the chassis.

2 man job to lift off. Assume you are talking 110?
Unless you leave the roof on then 3 blokes or 15 wimmin

Yes, it's an early 110. I was looking at taking all the doors and tailgate off, detaching it from the screen and then lifting off.
Are the mounting bolts obvious to find? I can obviously see the rear ones but was wondering where the rest were hidden?

Ooh, been a long time.....but there are 4 brackets which bolt at the 2nd row upstanding( sitting in the 2nd row, behind your heels area), the b and c piller along with the sill is one piece, you can separate at the c piller and leave the frame in place, bit tricky but saves time .
Be prepared for rot in the side frames (the b/c sill assembly) , the rear floor support ( bolt off component, difficult to replace with the body in place).
It's a bit of work removing the body, don't spend too much time faffing with any rusty bolts just grind them off.
Everything is gonna be loads worse than you think, rot wise, alloy floor area around those 4 brackets, seatbelt floor area, a few on here have rebuilt 110sws including me and nowt is scary on them just feels like you've opened a can of worms sometimes

Cheers for the info, I'll have a dig around and try and locate everything!

Just had a thought..rear body terminology to me means C post and back from there. If you want to remove from (but not including)the bulkhead there are more bolts but it's loads heavier then.

Flossie said:

Just had a thought..rear body terminology to me means C post and back from there. If you want to remove from (but not including)the bulkhead there are more bolts but it's loads heavier then.

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Yes, I'm looking at taking everything from the bulkhead backwards off. I take it from your earlier comments that I could remove it in smaller sections to make it an easier job?

If so, once again, what's the best way of doing it?

i usually remove body as a whole bulkhead included,failing that youd have to unbolt the sills from bulkhead floor plates tunnel etc,and all the mounts,

Have not long stripped mine and have just put most of it back together, took mine apart in pieces as I need to replace the tub floor and other bits. How much of the chassis needs repairing and were about are the repairs?

It's from just in front of the front wheels backwards that I need to get at underneath. The bulkhead also needs repairs so the idea was to slowly get all the chassis repairs done without having to crawl around underneath, get a better job done of it with the easier access and then get the bulkhead done before reassembling everything.

Sounds pretty extensive. Perhaps worth considering a galv chassis - you know the steel will only rust again, no matter what you do.

How rusty is it?

I ended up rebuilding the rear tub from new panels as it was pretty far gone.

its a bit of a mess. I have considered a new chassis which has obvious benefits but, it's the space required for a complete strip down.

I was thinking this way I could address all the areas slow time?

You will probably find the rear tub is quite corroded and powdery.

They tend to rot around the C-pillar and rear seat mounts.

You can buy repair panels from YRM metal solutions.

The underfloor supports will also likely be rotten, I would replace these with galvanised supports also available from YRM.

Sounds familiar had to replace both front out riggers, drivers side front spring seat, repair behind the gearbox x mem, new rear cross mem and major repairs to the a frame cross member. then 2 new foot wells and tub floor and rear quarter panels. You'll definitely get better access with the body parts removed and will make it a whole lot easier to weld and you'll probably find more rot than you can see.

which sort of takes me back to my original question of whats the best way to do it?
Section by section - if so, where's the best place to start or, do I did it in one go but get something capable of lifting it, tractor/JCB, etc?

Remove doors
Remove rear seats
Remove roof, windscreen and sidepanels as one piece (can be lifted by two people, though heavy and awkward)
Disconnect wiring
Disconnect fuel tank
Unbolt second row floor
Unbolt sills
Unbolt and remove rear tub (can be lifted by two people)

I think it depends on whether you need to do any repairs to the body like the tub floor and such and if you have access to a lift or enough people to help lift it off , and if you have room to store a complete body. Parts take up less room than a body and are easier to keep dry. Are you taking the engine and gear box out ? If your taking it apart bit at a time based on your previous post of in front of the front wheels back I'd go bonnet ,wings ,doors , interior (ie seats ,seat box, floor plates, gear box tunnel and everything else) roof lining which you will inevitably rip but can be repaired with fibreglass mating, roof , side panels , then tub I would leave the side rails and b and c posts on. If there's any fixings you can't find when taking apart someone will be able to tell you were the ones you've missed are.

Many thanks for all the info. I'll try and gave a good look over get this weekend and work out where all the fixings are and then work out the best way for me to do it in the area I have.

mike.gamble said:

which sort of takes me back to my original question of whats the best way to do it?
Section by section - if so, where's the best place to start or, do I did it in one go but get something capable of lifting it, tractor/JCB, etc?

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depends on what your doing if its chassis etc lift the whole lot of ,as refitting panels door gaps etc is a big job ,but if you want to do extensive body work ,split it in to parts, 2 post lift or forklift / reach truck will lift the body