Starting Problem

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abrown1466

New Member
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42
Location
Derbyshire
I have a 1996 300tdi, It takes a bit to start, I have eliminated the battery, alternator and glow plugs. It always starts just takes a while and sounds like it isnt going to then fires up. Where should I go from here? and is it worth it?
 
have you checked fuel supply? filter? sedimentor clean? thats what i would check when called to a breakdown as had same on my 1995 300tdi , felt such a fool as only had it a week best thing was my mate from work that came out to rescue me lol ( was standing joke as didnt know where sedimenter was)
 
under drivers side just in front of wheel you should find a aluminium pot with a 10mm /3/8 hex head on bottom that is sedimentor undo said hex and GENTLY remove pot CAREFULLY as will be full of gunk and fuel ( may have to give tap with soft hammer) be ware there is a o ring seal on top once claened out refit making sure seal is located correctly DONT OVERTIGHTEN when refitting , bit messy but many help to check and clean out
 
yes bleed system at front banjo on injection pump 13mm socket ,unless sedimentor is like new bypass it with fresh pipe from passeger outlet on tank to front of rear wheel arch
 
CAREFUL ! If the sedimentor hasn`t been touched lately it may well break if you put a lot of strain on it. Darren is right to say treat it gently. The drain plug is made of crap plastic and can break when removing it. Plastic drain plug and washer are on e-bay for about a fiver, and depending if/not you got a Landy dealer nearby, may be best to get one of these first.
Your starting problems may be due to fuel flowing back? Check runoff pipes on injectors. (these are the low pressure flexible pipes on the injectors). Easy to diy if perished, & leaking. Don`t touch the metal high pressure pipes if you`re a newbie.
 
Since you`ve only had the vehicle a few weeks, suggest a full service: all filters (air, fuel, oil), change oils in engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles, all grease nipples, etc. Check all brake pads, pipes, hoses, discs. Check all steering joints, linkages etc.
I don`t believe much of what any seller says, or much of any service records, especially older cars. Do it now, and you know you`re starting with a clean sheet. It`ll cost a few quid in oils and parts but is an investment.
 
Also is it a EDC auto as it could be electrical.
But check all fuel pipes and unions for leaks and blockages, Lift pump, that the glow plugs are working with volt meter.
 
Do you have a check engine light and check the injector pump it will be fly by wire and should have a slight buzzing noise to it when ignition is set to point 2 and the lights are on then it is EDC if so get it checked the wiring behind the engine sometimes melts ca
causing a few problems starting is one of them
 
not until your sure youve got good clean fuel to pump if unsure put clear plastic pipe in between filter and front banjo on pump and check for air bubbles ,its most common cause of poor starting ,air comes from tank pipe passenger side one under boot floor inspection plate ,poor sedimentor ,lift pump,sedimentor is best bypassed as you dont need it front filter has drain
 
Second that second on JMs advice. Do all that and ONLY THEN start looking at EDC problems,theres lots on here about that and it can be very disheartening. Its more likely a fuel issue,air leaking backing into system as it is left standing.
 
Ok Im ready to change the filter, ive looked at the sedimentor and the plastic hex turns so dont reckon that will be a prob, the only thing im worried about is having to bleed it as i cant seem to find the pump, sorry ive just never done this before
 
drivers side near rear under injector pipes undo front pump banjo to let air out 13mm socket ,engine may need clicking over if pump lever is on the cam and outer lever feels loose
 
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