Freelander 1 Starting Problem after changing High pressure diesel pump.

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AsoftUK

New Member
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Location
staffordshire
To cut a long story short, took the 2003 TD4 for an m.o.t a few weeks ago. Wasn't able to m.o.t it as a leaking high pressure fuel pump was discovered. High pressure fuel pump removed and a 2nd pump ordered from a breakers yard. Pump arrived and was immediately fitted to TD4. Failed to start and no fuel pressure from the pump to the common rail. All pipes were bled with a vacuum pump to draw the diesel up to the common rail. Still no pressure. Called out a mechanic who after spending 10 minutes on a computer trying to start it stated whenever a high pressure pump is changed it needs the vehicle programming to it. £50 later I was told the pump was faulty as no pressure to the rail. Old original pump sent off to be reconditioned, 2 days and £175 later original pump arrives back after being reconditioned. Pump fitted to the TD4 and yet again it refuses to start. Before the original pump was removed the TD4 ran flawlessly. It did have 3 injectors changed a few weeks before at a cost of £806 which sorted out the previous stutter at 50mph. I'm completely at a loss on this one and totally frustrated to the point of saying sod it and scrapping it. If anybody has any ideas as to what could be the problem before i actually do lose my rag with it and commit it to a scrap pile please let me know.
 
No coding required for hp pump on Td4.

Have you got the low pressure readings? Maybe lp pump is not adequate to get the hp pump working correctly?

I would get the lp and hp fuel figures off live data and post them here.
 
What Andy said, and you need to fine somewhere that isn't going to rip you off. 3 injectors for £800 odd is way way to much.
 
As above get a real time diagnostic on the FL1 i have sent you a number for a guy who as a full T4 which will do just that, you can then report back here or take his advice, that is if you so wish too, he is not far from you.
 
Hi,

I think your second hand/refurbished HP pump is faulty or the guy who change the pump did something wrong.
If you changed the pump the engine should start, if you payed for that the guy have to fix it.

A fault reader with fuel pressure reading can do the job like icarsoft LR 2.0 which cost less than 150 bucks
 
Last edited:
Arctic2 said:
As above get a real time diagnostic on the FL1 I have sent you a number for a guy who as a full T4 which will do just that, you can then report back here or take his advice, that is if you so wish too, he is not far from you.
Click to expand...

Had the lad out that you messaged his details to me. Pleasant lad and helpful.

Freelander had 3 fault codes.

1), maf,
2), boost sensor (unplugged with plastics) then plugged in to clear the code,
3), fuel pressure sensor (thingy lol) on the rear of the high pressure pump was showing an open circuit (changed while he was here to one that was working) which cleared the code.

No other codes present on the vehicle, vehicle still refusing to start. low fuel pressure is cranking enough pressure to the high pressure pump. with no output from the high pressure pump to the injectors or common rail.

Software was saying there was no engine revs when cranking so could be a faulty crank sensor but working enough to register no fault? (ordered for Monday to be fitted).
 
Last edited:
AsoftUK said:
Software was saying there was no engine revs when cranking so could be a faulty crank sensor but working enough to register no fault? (ordered for Monday to be fitted).
Click to expand...

Did the crank sensor get damaged while removing the starter?
 
Nodge68 said:
Did the crank sensor get damaged while removing the starter?
Click to expand...
No the crank sensor was untouched it wasn't disconnected before - during or after the starter was removed. I am changing it as a process of elimination so its one less thing that could be wrong. If it fails to start after that then it will be case of wiring loom to the engine replaced and possibly the ecu. If after that it and it still will not start I will take great satisfaction watching a mate with a jcb flatten it.
 
I asked about damage to the crank sensor, as it's directly below the starter and easily damaged if the starter is dropped on it during the removal operation.

Do you know the exact pressure of the low pressure fuel rail? It needs to exceed 280kpa, or the EDC won't initiate injection, but for proper running, the low pressure rail needs to exceed 350kpa all the time.

Also if you removed the pump mounted pressure regulator, were the O rings replaced before the replacement was installed? Even the tiniest of leaks or damage (they get damaged simply by removing them) on the regulator O rings will prevent the rail pressure from exceeding the minimum requirement, and again the EDC will inhibit the injectors.

The problem sounds mechanical, rather than electronic to me, which makes me suspect the regulator O rings are bypassing fuel, preventing the HP fuel rail from exceeding the minimum requirement.
 
AsoftUK said:
Had the lad out that you messaged his details to me. Pleasant lad and helpful.

Freelander had 3 fault codes.

1), maf,
2), boost sensor (unplugged with plastics) then plugged in to clear the code,
3), fuel pressure sensor (thingy lol) on the rear of the high pressure pump was showing an open circuit (changed while he was here to one that was working) which cleared the code.

No other codes present on the vehicle, vehicle still refusing to start. low fuel pressure is cranking enough pressure to the high pressure pump. with no output from the high pressure pump to the injectors or common rail.

Software was saying there was no engine revs when cranking so could be a faulty crank sensor but working enough to register no fault? (ordered for Monday to be fitted).
Click to expand...

OK so what did Jamie say he thinks it is, and did he not give you the codes, where did the regulator come from ? and was it new or a second hand working one, if the later did it have new o-rings as these below.
BMW 525d 2.5 Common Rail Pump Pressure Regulator seal kit Bosch x 1 | eBay

Did he try any quick start spray into the air system while cranking the engine ?
 
Regulator was with the pump when it went for reconditioning. It had a new O-ring put onto it from what was said when the pump was dropped off. Low pressure was well above 350 when he shown me the screen. No high pressure readings and no engine rev readings. Jamie said it could be the crank sensor has gone faulty, giving enough power to not throw up a code but not enough to register the revs. He did say when he got here that he wasn't a mechanic he was basically a technician.
 
AsoftUK said:
To cut a long story short, took the 2003 TD4 for an m.o.t a few weeks ago. Wasn't able to m.o.t it as a leaking high pressure fuel pump was discovered. High pressure fuel pump removed and a 2nd pump ordered from a breakers yard. Pump arrived and was immediately fitted to TD4. Failed to start and no fuel pressure from the pump to the common rail. All pipes were bled with a vacuum pump to draw the diesel up to the common rail. Still no pressure. Called out a mechanic who after spending 10 minutes on a computer trying to start it stated whenever a high pressure pump is changed it needs the vehicle programming to it. £50 later I was told the pump was faulty as no pressure to the rail. Old original pump sent off to be reconditioned, 2 days and £175 later original pump arrives back after being reconditioned. Pump fitted to the TD4 and yet again it refuses to start. Before the original pump was removed the TD4 ran flawlessly. It did have 3 injectors changed a few weeks before at a cost of £806 which sorted out the previous stutter at 50mph. I'm completely at a loss on this one and totally frustrated to the point of saying sod it and scrapping it. If anybody has any ideas as to what could be the problem before i actually do lose my rag with it and commit it to a scrap pile please let me know.
Click to expand...
just replacing the high pressure fuel pump on my 2005 td4, how the hell doyou get the 3rd nut off, the one underneath, any tips, special tool,tia
 
steve569 said:
just replacing the high pressure fuel pump on my 2005 td4, how the hell doyou get the 3rd nut off, the one underneath, any tips, special tool,tia
Click to expand...
Just a 13mm socket on an extension. Prefer to use ¼ drive sockets for those, as space is limited, as you'll be doing it by feel.
 
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