Freelander 1 Starting okay but then cuts out......

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Bowyer

Bowyer

Member
Posts
47
Location
Perthshire, Scotland
I'm working on an 04 1.8 Freelander HSE, recently purchased as a wee project. I've replaced the clutch, driver's window regulator, fitted a brand new Exide battery and put in a petrol tank strap until I can organize a cradle for the tank. I've also forked out for a new key and programming, as the transponder in the old key was lost under daft circumstances. Problem now is that the engine starts, but immediately cuts out. There are no faults reported in the diagnostics that the specialist who programmed the key performed, and all the sensors, Crank shaft, cam shafts etc. appear to be fine and plugged in securely with no corrosion on the plug terminals. There also appears to be no problem with any of the vacuum pipes or hoses. The car ran perfectly before the work was done so I'm at a loss as to why it won't run now. Does anyone have an inkling as to what the cause might be? Slowly going nuts here trying to figure it out. Any help will definitely save my sanity.
 
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Would the specialist be able to identify this during the programming? He said that there were no problems flagged during the procedure. It's a brand new key from Land Rover, so presumably it will be under a warranty, though Land Rover did not inform me to that effect.
 
Did LR programme the key to the car? If so, it should be OK. If not, then it could be something wrong with the programming of the transponder.
 
Nodge68 said:
Did LR programme the key to the car? If so, it should be OK. If not, then it could be something wrong with the programming of the transponder.
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Land Rover approved garage, using LR equipment, recommended to me by LR. Couldn't get the car to LR, and had to tow it to the garage as it wasn't so far away. Will get in touch with LR and see what they say about it. Thanks Nodge68.
 
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Nodge68 said:
I'm thinking the transponder isn't working correctly engine to keep the engine running.
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By the sounds of it that's a good call, but if the transponder wasn't set up correctly (or working) wouldn't it inhibit cranking and also throw the little immobilised LED (the one that blinks when the alarm is on) on the dashboard?
 
I had a new key cut for mine which used the original transponder from the old nearly broken key. When I got back to the car the new key wouldn't turn the ignition barrel as it wasn't quite cut properly. I had to use the old key but it wouldn't turn over as the transponder chip was still in the new key. I held the new key next to the old one to get it started then stuck it back in my pocket and the engine kept running with the old key minus the transponder.
It was on an '05 td4.
 
GrumpyGel said:
By the sounds of it that's a good call, but if the transponder wasn't set up correctly (or working) wouldn't it inhibit cranking and also throw the little immobilised LED (the one that blinks when the alarm is on) on the dashboard?
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The engine certainly cranks, and no light appears, so still kinda flummoxed. Juzza6720, the new key fits and turns fine. On first try starting, the engine starts, then cuts out. If I try to start it again immediately, the engine cranks, but doesn't catch. Going to check all the connections, including the one for the alternator, tomorrow to see if I can find any problems
 
GrumpyGel said:
By the sounds of it that's a good call, but if the transponder wasn't set up correctly (or working) wouldn't it inhibit cranking and also throw the little immobilised LED (the one that blinks when the alarm is on) on the dashboard?
Click to expand...

I'm sure there's 2 stages to the immobilizer. First stage is the alarm ECU allowing the engine to crank and potentially start OK. Second stage is the alarm ECU sending the transponder code the to engine ECU for verification. If the code sent to the engine ECU doesn't match, the engine will stop running, again. I had a similar issue a few years back where the coms bus to the ECU went down. This caused the exact same problem the OP has. However as the transponder has recently been coded, I'm guessing it's not been done correctly.
 
Nodge68 said:
I'm sure there's 2 stages to the immobilizer. First stage is the alarm ECU allowing the engine to crank and potentially start OK. Second stage is the alarm ECU sending the transponder code the to engine ECU for verification. If the code sent to the engine ECU doesn't match, the engine will stop running, again. I had a similar issue a few years back where the coms bus to the ECU went down. This caused the exact same problem the OP has. However as the transponder has recently been coded, I'm guessing it's not been done correctly.
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That makes sense. especially as everything else seems fine. I'll get onto that Nodge68, thanks for your help guys.
 
Hi guys, just an update, I took the car back to the specialist, he resynchronized the system, exactly what he did before, and away she went. I still don't have a clue why it didn't take in the first place, and neither does the specialist, but she's running quite happily now.
 
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Nodge68 said:
I'm sure there's 2 stages to the immobilizer. First stage is the alarm ECU allowing the engine to crank and potentially start OK. Second stage is the alarm ECU sending the transponder code the to engine ECU for verification. If the code sent to the engine ECU doesn't match, the engine will stop running, again. I had a similar issue a few years back where the coms bus to the ECU went down. This caused the exact same problem the OP has. However as the transponder has recently been coded, I'm guessing it's not been done correctly.
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I have learnt something from this - they say that everyday is a school day! Cheers Nodge.
 
Right, so that's the starting headache out of the way. Ho hum, on to the next issue! Exhaust hanger, new tyres ekcetera, ekcetera..... Crivvens, does it ever come to an end? :-O
 
Bowyer said:
Right, so that's the starting headache out of the way. Ho hum, on to the next issue! Exhaust hanger, new tyres ekcetera, ekcetera..... Crivvens, does it ever come to an end? :-O
Click to expand...

Nope. For this MOT I've done the exhaust hangers, replaced all the rear brakes, replaced drop links, replaced the ARB bushes, de-misted the head lights, painted some rusty patches underneath and re-adjusted the screen washers and fitted new wipers. I even found time to replace a broken window cable.
It sounds like a lot, but it was done in a day, so fingers crossed for the MOT on Wednesday. :confused:
 
Who said owning a Freelander wasn't fun! I've just replaced the tailgate regulator on my other Freebie too an 01 1.8 S 3 door. Need to replace ABS sensors on that, replaced N/Side wishbone, Off side wheel bearing, N/Side cv joint, Off side driveshaft assembly, and vcu bearings. Now I have to refit the propshaft so everything is right and tight.

Now I've got this newer beastie. Apart from the above mentioned clutch, driver's regulator and starting problems, I've fitted a new rear wiper arm and blade, taken off the front wiper motor and cleaned up the contact tracks as well as removing excess nylon where the contacts were arcing and causing it to melt in a small nodule. Gods, I must be a glutton for punishment. But definitely good luck for Wednesday.
 
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