Disco 2 Starting Issue

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Seems to indicate fuse box then. Perhaps a short due to moisture ingress etc.
I believe if I replace fuse box, and all is ok, the vehicle oddometer/mileage will be out of sinc and the mileage readout flashes until reset by a "main dealer".
That's a real PITA......
Sever years ago as I think I recall, I had to change one, and the mileage readout has been flashing ever since.
 
Or if you want to improvise as to make the vehicle driveable you need a relay as to bypass the original circuit and connect the solenoid through it directly to the WR wire from the ignition switch
 
DaveMac said:
Seems to indicate fuse box then. Perhaps a short due to moisture ingress etc.
I believe if I replace fuse box, and all is ok, the vehicle oddometer/mileage will be out of sinc and the mileage readout flashes until reset by a "main dealer".
That's a real PITA......
Sever years ago as I think I recall, I had to change one, and the mileage readout has been flashing ever since.
Click to expand...
The fusebox must be from a pre-facelift vehicle and it's plug and play just that the battery must be disconnected(neg lead first) before the swap and after the battery reconnection(neg lead last|), turn ignition on 2 an let it so 5 minutes to regain digital data comunication between the IDM and BCU... no need for programming with this, the odometer or other systems are affected only when the BCU is replaced
 
OK I will probably change the fuse box. However, I will have a good look at it when it is out.
I am a retired electronics engineer, so ok with printed circuits and soldering iron etc.
I can not thank you enough for your help. Wish me luck and I will report back hear.
Many thanks
Dave
 
sierrafery said:
The fusebox must be from a pre-facelift vehicle and it's plug and play just that the battery must be disconnected(neg lead first) before the swap and after the battery reconnection(neg lead last|), turn ignition on 2 an let it so 5 minutes to regain digital data comunication between the IDM and BCU... no need for programming with this, the odometer or other systems are affected only when the BCU is replaced
Click to expand...
 
OK understood all that. Will remove and investigate. When put back in I will follow your procedure and keep fingers crossed etc.
Many thanks
Dave
 
OK out and opened up. Some sections look really cruddy.
Real pain getting all connectors off it.
Going to be a real PITA getting it all back.
Have ordered a replacement so will get back to you in a day or two.
Many thanks
Dave
 
Good luck cos in the unlikely case that the short is somewhere else the troubleshooting can become a nightmare to you.... but everything is doable
 
Hi sierrafery,
Think I have found it !!!
On connector C588 pin 5 W/R colour, a lot of crud around pin between pin and pc track. Checked and this was shorting across where it did not look like it should be.
Cleaned this up with toothbrush and fast evap switch cleaner. Short now gone !!!
Tempted to refit and try. What would you recommend ?
Dave
 
Yes that fault can be caused by a short in C0588 cos it makes a link between the Y and WR wire, refit and try cos you might have fixed it now
 
@DaveMac.

Dave, as a retired "Lectrictronics" engineer, a bit like me, you'd understand insulation resistance, especially as it applies to PCB's.
Before you finally consign the IDM and fuseboard of your Disco to even more years of trouble free operation, maybe it would be worth giving it a coat of something to keep the moisture at bay, such as "Nano Protech":-

http://www.nanoroad.co.uk/auto-coatings/4-nano-protech-electric.html
 
Great !!!!!
All working now. Just as it was as new. Seats, Radio, Heater, Fans, Windows, etc.
Many, many thanks for your efforts.
Yes, gave the circuit boards good clean and a wee coat of pc varnish.
I am used to working on these pc circuits, even the surface mount types, so do appreciate what is required.
With this old disco now 17 yrs old, I will no doubt be on here again sooner or later with a new problem.
In the meantime all the best to you and thanks again.
Regards
Dave
BTW my Amateur Radio Callsign is GM8UPI, 73'S
 
@DaveMac
Glad it's all working again. Your next mission is to find out where that moisture came from so that you don't end up in a similar situation again.
The usual problem is water running down the "A" pillar and getting into the IDM (that's what the PC board is called) and collecting at the bottom of the box it's located in.
I've attached all that I have on water ingress on the Disco 2.

73 de GW3YSP.
 

Attachments

  • Discovery Water Ingress Manual.pdf
    923.8 KB · Views: 289
  • water_ingress_at_rear_of_vehicle.pdf
    173.1 KB · Views: 291
  • water_ingress_to_headliner.pdf
    172.3 KB · Views: 285
Hi GW3YSP,
You do not appear on QRZ Callsign database.
Anyway thanks for info re leaks. As is normal I have leaks from I suspect the front sunroof. Been putting up with gaffer tape sealing for years !!
A job for hopefully this coming summer is to remove headlining etc.
Many thanks,
Mabe catch you on 80mtrs one morning.
73
Dave de GM8UPI
 
DaveMac said:
Hi GW3YSP,
You do not appear on QRZ Callsign database.
Anyway thanks for info re leaks. As is normal I have leaks from I suspect the front sunroof. Been putting up with gaffer tape sealing for years !!
A job for hopefully this coming summer is to remove headlining etc.
Many thanks,
Mabe catch you on 80mtrs one morning.
73
Dave de GM8UPI
Click to expand...
Probably not, I'm not active these days. I didn't bother to get my licence changed over to the "new" system, much preferred the old method when they sent out the reminder and I then sent them some money.
Re the leaks, sadly it seems that the only sure-fire way to seal the sun roofs is to pull the headliner out then the sunroof frames and start again from scratch. Bathroom sealant is no good for the job, nor is gaffer tape by the sound of it.
 
Hi GW3YSP,

I too let my licence lapse (c 20 years ago) under the old annual renewal system but due to joining my local 4x4 Response group looked into 're-starting/re-claiming' my licence expecting it to be a real headache but it was surprisingly easy;

1) phone RSGB and ask them to send/email you a copy of the call book with you listed (just need to give them a rough year, name and address) and they will get that bit sorted for you.

2) phone Spectrum (the relevant part of OFCOM) and ask them to send/email the relevant forms.

3) complete the forms and return them with evidence from 1)

4) pay Spectrum £20 when they send you the invoice.

5) receive your new life-long licence with your old callsign.

This took me less than a week from start to finish, mainly by e-mail.

73 from 2E1DUZ
 
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