Starting after a few days sitting around

Getting to grips with my last few annoying issues before we put new arms poly bushes on etc.. and finish off the waxoyl job for winter.

I don't have access to diagnostic tools or multi meters and prob wouldn't know what to do with them even if I did.

Only use it at the weekend so if it sits for say 5 days and i start it it goes through the ignition and fires up the buzzing ABS pump and fires up first time....

However it feels lumpy to the ear straight away and light press on the throttle and its not revving smoothly. I also get a short whining sound like a belt noise. When I look at the rev counter its not moving just sitting there about 200 revs (but does not move up or down at all as is not working).

Then after about 30-50 seconds its like a switch is flicked and the idling goes up and smoothes under the peddle and the rev counter fires in and sits around 800-1000 and belt noise not apparent when revving it up.

Runs fine then no issues... Had new Powerspark Dizzy and Coil Bosch Leads new stepper, cleaned out all air pipes front and back of plenum , new flame trap, NEW MAF to Plenum rubber hose, MAF is a 5AM working fine still got the factory anti tamper seal... sparkplugs changed to NGK iridium ones. Fuel all Shell V-power... not sure what this little cold start issue could be ?

Ash

Check Alternator output when it plays around (you'll need a multimeter) as it could be the Alternator isn't being as efficent as it should...

Possibly Belt slipping due to a small amount of moisture on it, and after 30-50seconds the slipping has dried the belt off enough to grip and start turning the Alternator fast enought o register on the Rev counter (as the Tacho gets its signal from the Alternator) and the extra juice is enusring a good strong spark hence why the engine runs better...!!

ashbash2403 said:

However it feels lumpy to the ear straight away and light press on the throttle and its not revving smoothly. I also get a short whining sound like a belt noise. When I look at the rev counter its not moving just sitting there about 200 revs (but does not move up or down at all as is not working).

Then after about 30-50 seconds its like a switch is flicked and the idling goes up and smoothes under the peddle and the rev counter fires in and sits around 800-1000 and belt noise not apparent when revving it up.

Runs fine then no issues...

Ash

Click to expand...

Sounds pretty normal tbh. If you leave 'em sitting around they sulk! Belt noise - check belt tension/condition, but as Saint said also check alternator output as it can cause all sorts of funny things to happen. Rough running at start up could be condensation in the dizzy and once things start to warm up the condensation evaporates and all is back to normal. You could try cleaning the inside of the dizzy cap and maybe giving it a spray of wd40 or similar water repellant.

Checked Dizzy no problems there all dry and well shiny and new as you would expect from a 2 month old Power spark dizzy cap arm and lucas coil.
Checking the belts the Alternator adjustment was at the end of its rotation and not to tight when I tested it so loosend off the nut and changed the belt. Tensioned up nice and easy feels firm (could only return the alt to about 1inch from where it was before).
Also noticed the crank to viscous belt was well loose about 2cm push in easy.
Had a look at adjusting the tension arm but only God himself can get in there ! I went underneath looking up from the oil filter to the nut but unless I use the force can't see how to get at it... any ideas ??

Changed the Fuel Filter as well for a new one today and got seasonably wet during but all done and tested.

Now just to see if that makes any difference.

Is it simple enough to do the other 3 belts or are these more remove the fan etc... and best for a garage to throw them on when next in for a service ?

ps thanks for the replies guys much appreciated....

Ash

My hunch is that it's the alternator dying and it's messing with the rev counter when it's not working properly. When the squealing stops and everything is spinning freely, all is good.

Either that or it's under a big load after starting and alt is working hard to juice the battery back up. What condition is the battery in?

West Slope Rover said:

My hunch is that it's the alternator dying and it's messing with the rev counter when it's not working properly. When the squealing stops and everything is spinning freely, all is good.

Either that or it's under a big load after starting and alt is working hard to juice the battery back up. What condition is the battery in?

Click to expand...

Could well be. Easy enough to test, run at night with main beam and driving lights on, also fan on max and heated rear screen - if alty is struggling you will probably get a misfire with engine under load (up a steep hill with foot to floor) with that much electrical load on - I know because thats what mine did. Changed alternator and not looked back (or at least not until I killed that alternator as well).

Bit more details car runs fine took it for a run uphill with beams and rear screen on and heating pulled ok did not struggle.
Have noticed when I start it from cold the battery light stays on for 1 min if leave it ticking over or just until i get moving.

Ordered a multi meter as it seems it will be useful going forward will see whats at the battery under fast idle I guess...

ashbash2403 said:

Bit more details car runs fine took it for a run uphill with beams and rear screen on and heating pulled ok did not struggle.
Have noticed when I start it from cold the battery light stays on for 1 min if leave it ticking over or just until i get moving.

Ordered a multi meter as it seems it will be useful going forward will see whats at the battery under fast idle I guess...

Click to expand...

Sounds like fundamentally the motor is O.K. but get a decent multimeter. Would suggest check battery volts first thing before starting then check battery volts at idle then check again with load (main beam, heater blower on full, heated rear screen on). Then check voltage between alternator casing (ground) and battery ground, then between alternator output and ground. Post results and go from there.