Starter motor
- Thread starter Alex ford
- Start date
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GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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- 27,743
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Its supposed to stop turning when you let go of the key.
Hi Grumpy.
I should say it only whirrs and doesn't engage whilst I'm turning the key.
The stopping part when I let go I'm aware of ☺
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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- 27,743
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
I don't know exactly how the starters operate, but when engaged the gear is supposed to be pushed out of the starter to mate up with the fly wheel. Presumably this is not happening.
Presumably you bought a 2nd hand one - I'd just send it back for a refund and get a new one as they do wear out. I got a new one for my L Series recently and I was suprised how little it cost.
Presumably you bought a 2nd hand one - I'd just send it back for a refund and get a new one as they do wear out. I got a new one for my L Series recently and I was suprised how little it cost.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
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- 91,879
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- louth lincs
its either not throwing out enough which can be lack of power /poor connection or one way clutch in dog gear is poor
It's an old one but unused. Sounds like it might have to come off again.
Thanks
Hi James.
Yeah I don't think it's coming out at all. What would cause the lack of power, the connection? Is there a chance it might be stuck?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
any poor connection to starter, as the solenoid is thrown it connects the main contacts and turns starter motor at the same time the dog gear is pushed out by a lever connected to the solenoid, should be a hard clunk as dog gear is thrown out against its stop
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
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- 3,364
- Location
- Inverness
If it’s been sitting about then it’s possible some grease in there’s gone a bit sticky. Try cycling it quickly and giving a few taps with a hammer.
Otherwise, have it out. You can test them on the bench quite easily. Check the pinion gear can travel outwards and can only turn one way - give it some drops of engine oil. Let us know how you get on. Pics would be nice!
Otherwise, have it out. You can test them on the bench quite easily. Check the pinion gear can travel outwards and can only turn one way - give it some drops of engine oil. Let us know how you get on. Pics would be nice!
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
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- 2,990
- Location
- Westmidlands
You can fit new contacts and a plunger to them for little cost which FL1 do you TD4 or one of the petrol ones?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
This is how to remove and change the starter on a R40 which is about the same, being as you have already removed it once you will know how to remove the starter, if you read on it shows how to repair the contacts and plunger
A R4 owner member asked me if I would help him replace his starter motor contacts and plunger as his R75 Diesel 2004 was having trouble starting, the starter motor was sticking now and again and with winter coming up would only get worse.
I agreed and we set about removing the starter motor from his R75 diesel once we had removed and replaced the contacts and plunger the car started on the button.
This got me thinking I will replace my own even though I had no trouble with starting as a preventive measure as my own car FL 1 had done the same mileage 83,000 and was roughly the same age albeit a couple of years younger, I did this and to no surprize they were pitted but not to bad.
I mentioned this to my son and we decided to change his as well while doing his MGZT diesel 2005, it gave me the chance to take photo's which i am sharing with you hopefully this should help members whom want to repair their starter motor, if it is sticking or as we did as preventive measure or if the car is having trouble staring and the starter is the fault.
The kit can be obtained form the link below, I picked my kits up as the seller carl whom is a nice chap lives not to far away, the link below is for the diesel but petrol 2.0/2.5 are also available, as is the ones for a the 1.8 he will also take calls if you wish to go down that road.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
His direct sales are http://www.startermotorkits.com please feel free to say Steve ( Arctic ) referred you.
Right after the introduction lets get down to removing the starter motor, remove the engine cover and the air duct from the slam panel.
You then need to remove the negative lead from the battery 13mm spanner, this is the thick black cable if this is all new to you Fig 1
1
Once the battery as been disconnected you will now need to remove the two battery cable leads from the starter motor, also an electric spade connector wire on the starter solenoid which is just pulled off, the cables are removed by undoing the 13mm nut in the pic below Fig 2
2
Remove the spade connector first Fig 3
3
Undo the 13mm nut next Fig 4
4
Once the nut is loose remove with your fingers so as not to drop it into the engine bay below, on to the under tray Fig 5
5
Now remove the cables Fig 6
6
To make it more easy I found it better to remove EGR four Allen key/10mm bolts and the jubilee clip and set aside the intercooler hose, Fig 7/8
7
8
You will now need to remove the two starter mounting bolts noting that the upper bolt secures an engine earth lead, this is 13mm and a deep socket is best I found, the bolt can be found under the trunking holding some wires. Fig 9
9
Using the socket loosen the upper bolt holding the earth lead Fig 10/11
10
11
With the upper bolt loosened/removed you can now remove the lower bolt/nut you will need a 13mm ring spanner and a 15mm ring spanner for this Fig 12
12
Once you have remove the nut you can slide out the lower bolt Fig 13
13
If you have not removed the upper bolt beforehand but only loosened it ? now is the time to remove it, leave it to dangle Fig 14
14
This pic shows where the bolt resides Fig 15
15
Next remove the clip holding the coolant pipe Fig 16
16
This will allow you to move the coolant hosepipe to one side, Fig 17
17
Now the coolant pipe/hose is out of the way it gives better access to extract the starter motor Fig 18
18
Lift the rear of the starter motor a turn it upwards towards you Fig 19
19
The starter motor should come clear of the engine that is phase one, now you have the starter motor in your hands you can progress to replacing the starter contacts and plunger Fig 20
20
Cheers Arctic
Phase two of replacing the starter motor contacts and plunger to a diesel R75 MGZT.
Now the starter motor is on the work bench you can start to dismantle it to replace the damage contacts/plunger or just as a preventive measure as I/we did.
Your repair kit should have two contacts and a plunger along with a short instruction leaflet.
First remove the 3 x 8mm bolt/screws holding the rear metal cover Fig 1/2
1
2
Remove the rear back plate cover inside you will see the plunger Fig 3
3
With the back plate removed slowly pull out the plunger noting the spring train this as it is re-used Fig 4
4
As you can see even though my sons MGZT starts on the button first time the plunger as started to pit and corrode nothing unusual after 10 years and 75,000 miles of use. Fig 5
5
Once the plunger was removed we could also see the condition of the contacts which were also pitted, Fig 6
6
First work on the left connector a 14mm ring spanner is needed to undo the nut Fig 7
7
Next remove the small washer and plastic insulator retainer Fig 8
8
Behind the insulator you will find a small rubber O-ring keep this safe as it needs to be re-used after Fig 9/10
9
10
Now you have the nut,insulator & O-ring removed you can extract the connector, push it through slowly inwards and out Fig11
11
Keep this safe as the copper bolt needs to be re-used Fig 12
12
The left side should now look like this Fig 13
13
Now you can turn your attention to the right contact this as a rubber cover and two nuts holding the copper bolt/connector into the starter pull the rubber cover back Fig 14
14
The first nut is a 12mm undo and remove keeping it safe for re-use Fig 15
15
With the nut removed you can pull off the lead Fig 16
16
Now remove the 14mm nut Fig 16a
16a
Next is the little metal washer and plastic insulator Fig 17
17
Last remove the rubber O-ring again keeping it safe as it will be reused Fig 18
18
Now carefully take a look at the contact inside of the starter motor as it as a wire connected to it, note how it fits between the copper bolt head and the contact Fig 19
19
Carefully remove the bolt from the unit Fig 20/21
20
21
With both copper bolts removed you can clean out the dirt and dust with a small soft brush, note on this starter motor the insulator as broken so that will have to be replaced also. Fig 22
22
Phase two is finished all that remains now is to replace the new connectors and plunger. Arctic
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.startermotorkits.com
Phase Three replacing the new connector and Plunger before re-fitting the starter back onto the car.
First the left hand connector will need to be spilt as this as slotted serrations which hold the connector to the bolt and the new contact fitted onto the bolt Fig 1
1
Now with the old plunger and the new plunger side by side remove the spring and replace it onto the new plunger Fig2/3
2
3
We can now re-fit the right copper bolt with the contact making sure you add the wired connector between the bolt head and the new copper contact Fig 4
4
With the wire between the bolt and the contact push the bolt back through the side of the starter, keeping the contact square Fig 5
5
Now add the rubber O-ring Fig 6
6
Next the plastic insulator and metal washer Fig 7
7
The 14mm nut can now be fitted do not over tighten the nut Fig 8
8
Then fit the lead and the 12mm nut Fig 9/10
9
10
Once again do not over tighten the nut Fig 11
11
You can now fit the left hand side bolt and contact, push it through and add the rubber O-ring Fig 12
12
Fit the plastic insulator and metal washer making sure the insulator locates into the round hole Fig 13
13
Add the 14mm nut do not over tighten Fig 14/15
14
15
The new plunger with the spring can now be re-inserted into the starter Fig 16
16
The back plate is now fitted to the starter Fig 17
17
Do not over tighten the three 8mm bolts trying to remember how tight they were when you removed them Fig 18/19
18
19
The Starter is now ready to be fitted back on to the car phase Four. Arctic
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.startermotorkits.com
Then you need to refit the starter back on the car.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
This is how to remove and change the starter on a R40 which is about the same, being as you have already removed it once you will know how to remove the starter, if you read on it shows how to repair the contacts and plunger
A R4 owner member asked me if I would help him replace his starter motor contacts and plunger as his R75 Diesel 2004 was having trouble starting, the starter motor was sticking now and again and with winter coming up would only get worse.
I agreed and we set about removing the starter motor from his R75 diesel once we had removed and replaced the contacts and plunger the car started on the button.
This got me thinking I will replace my own even though I had no trouble with starting as a preventive measure as my own car FL 1 had done the same mileage 83,000 and was roughly the same age albeit a couple of years younger, I did this and to no surprize they were pitted but not to bad.
I mentioned this to my son and we decided to change his as well while doing his MGZT diesel 2005, it gave me the chance to take photo's which i am sharing with you hopefully this should help members whom want to repair their starter motor, if it is sticking or as we did as preventive measure or if the car is having trouble staring and the starter is the fault.
The kit can be obtained form the link below, I picked my kits up as the seller carl whom is a nice chap lives not to far away, the link below is for the diesel but petrol 2.0/2.5 are also available, as is the ones for a the 1.8 he will also take calls if you wish to go down that road.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
His direct sales are http://www.startermotorkits.com please feel free to say Steve ( Arctic ) referred you.
Right after the introduction lets get down to removing the starter motor, remove the engine cover and the air duct from the slam panel.
You then need to remove the negative lead from the battery 13mm spanner, this is the thick black cable if this is all new to you Fig 1
Once the battery as been disconnected you will now need to remove the two battery cable leads from the starter motor, also an electric spade connector wire on the starter solenoid which is just pulled off, the cables are removed by undoing the 13mm nut in the pic below Fig 2
Remove the spade connector first Fig 3
Undo the 13mm nut next Fig 4
Once the nut is loose remove with your fingers so as not to drop it into the engine bay below, on to the under tray Fig 5
Now remove the cables Fig 6
To make it more easy I found it better to remove EGR four Allen key/10mm bolts and the jubilee clip and set aside the intercooler hose, Fig 7/8
You will now need to remove the two starter mounting bolts noting that the upper bolt secures an engine earth lead, this is 13mm and a deep socket is best I found, the bolt can be found under the trunking holding some wires. Fig 9
Using the socket loosen the upper bolt holding the earth lead Fig 10/11
With the upper bolt loosened/removed you can now remove the lower bolt/nut you will need a 13mm ring spanner and a 15mm ring spanner for this Fig 12
Once you have remove the nut you can slide out the lower bolt Fig 13
If you have not removed the upper bolt beforehand but only loosened it ? now is the time to remove it, leave it to dangle Fig 14
This pic shows where the bolt resides Fig 15
Next remove the clip holding the coolant pipe Fig 16
This will allow you to move the coolant hosepipe to one side, Fig 17
Now the coolant pipe/hose is out of the way it gives better access to extract the starter motor Fig 18
Lift the rear of the starter motor a turn it upwards towards you Fig 19
The starter motor should come clear of the engine that is phase one, now you have the starter motor in your hands you can progress to replacing the starter contacts and plunger Fig 20
Cheers Arctic
Phase two of replacing the starter motor contacts and plunger to a diesel R75 MGZT.
Now the starter motor is on the work bench you can start to dismantle it to replace the damage contacts/plunger or just as a preventive measure as I/we did.
Your repair kit should have two contacts and a plunger along with a short instruction leaflet.
First remove the 3 x 8mm bolt/screws holding the rear metal cover Fig 1/2
Remove the rear back plate cover inside you will see the plunger Fig 3
With the back plate removed slowly pull out the plunger noting the spring train this as it is re-used Fig 4
As you can see even though my sons MGZT starts on the button first time the plunger as started to pit and corrode nothing unusual after 10 years and 75,000 miles of use. Fig 5
Once the plunger was removed we could also see the condition of the contacts which were also pitted, Fig 6
First work on the left connector a 14mm ring spanner is needed to undo the nut Fig 7
Next remove the small washer and plastic insulator retainer Fig 8
Behind the insulator you will find a small rubber O-ring keep this safe as it needs to be re-used after Fig 9/10
Now you have the nut,insulator & O-ring removed you can extract the connector, push it through slowly inwards and out Fig11
Keep this safe as the copper bolt needs to be re-used Fig 12
The left side should now look like this Fig 13
Now you can turn your attention to the right contact this as a rubber cover and two nuts holding the copper bolt/connector into the starter pull the rubber cover back Fig 14
The first nut is a 12mm undo and remove keeping it safe for re-use Fig 15
With the nut removed you can pull off the lead Fig 16
Now remove the 14mm nut Fig 16a
Next is the little metal washer and plastic insulator Fig 17
Last remove the rubber O-ring again keeping it safe as it will be reused Fig 18
Now carefully take a look at the contact inside of the starter motor as it as a wire connected to it, note how it fits between the copper bolt head and the contact Fig 19
Carefully remove the bolt from the unit Fig 20/21
With both copper bolts removed you can clean out the dirt and dust with a small soft brush, note on this starter motor the insulator as broken so that will have to be replaced also. Fig 22
Phase two is finished all that remains now is to replace the new connectors and plunger. Arctic
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.startermotorkits.com
Phase Three replacing the new connector and Plunger before re-fitting the starter back onto the car.
First the left hand connector will need to be spilt as this as slotted serrations which hold the connector to the bolt and the new contact fitted onto the bolt Fig 1
Now with the old plunger and the new plunger side by side remove the spring and replace it onto the new plunger Fig2/3
We can now re-fit the right copper bolt with the contact making sure you add the wired connector between the bolt head and the new copper contact Fig 4
With the wire between the bolt and the contact push the bolt back through the side of the starter, keeping the contact square Fig 5
Now add the rubber O-ring Fig 6
Next the plastic insulator and metal washer Fig 7
The 14mm nut can now be fitted do not over tighten the nut Fig 8
Then fit the lead and the 12mm nut Fig 9/10
Once again do not over tighten the nut Fig 11
You can now fit the left hand side bolt and contact, push it through and add the rubber O-ring Fig 12
Fit the plastic insulator and metal washer making sure the insulator locates into the round hole Fig 13
Add the 14mm nut do not over tighten Fig 14/15
The new plunger with the spring can now be re-inserted into the starter Fig 16
The back plate is now fitted to the starter Fig 17
Do not over tighten the three 8mm bolts trying to remember how tight they were when you removed them Fig 18/19
The Starter is now ready to be fitted back on to the car phase Four. Arctic
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251755645921? ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.startermotorkits.com
Then you need to refit the starter back on the car.
