Starter fried I think...

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If as you say you have a few turns of the stud showing would it be possible to get a nut onto it and then give it some with a welder inside the nut?
The heat might well be to your advantage and you would at least have somthing to get a spanner on.
Just a thought.
 
The thread is bog standard M10. I replaced all my studs with ss bolts.
Never had a heat shield on mine and never had any issues.
Don't forget to check out the wiring for heat damage especially behind the dash/rear of ignition switch.
Don't grind the starter, it WILL drop out easy if you do as I say, too easy once! Hit me on the head:rolleyes:
 
Well, exactly a year ago tody I was stood in a hospital delivery room. There was shouting, screaming, swearing, lots of blood, torches being shone in places to see what the hell was stuck on where, big scary tools and implements being used to ease the way, a final massive effort to push things and then "pop" there it was.

Exactly the same situation was unfolding in my garage last night but finally the starter motor came out. What a complete pain. I did undo the engine mountings but for some reason I was only getting fairly minimal movement...but I guess enough is enough and it made it.

I have to say, when I do the body off rebuild next year, I would still be tempted to have a nibble at the casing with a grinder or file...a few mm of material removed really would make all the difference.

Much to my surpise the new ignition switch has also arrived in time...but my AA mate said it definitely wasn't sticking when he tested it...although I'll swap it anyway as a precaution.

Next job is to fit the exhaust...the old one was a horrible, restrictive bodge job that pretty much fell apart when it came off...the new one is a full Steve Parker system but will obviously take some fettling to get it to fit.

In the words of the great Pete Tong...we continue...
 
Just undoing the nut won't help much, you have to remove it and jack the engine right up until the studs clear the chassis mounts, then it'll lever over loads. Maybe I undid both mounts, can't remember :oops:
 
Well, she lives.

Starter is in, and a whole new Tdi exhaust is fitted so at least we are mobile again. The Steve Parker downpipe is expensive, but a good fit and well made. The whole truck is definitely quieter, and goes better too...although the old exhaust was a) rusted to buggery and b) comically small in places.

Next job is to fit the Steve Parker air filter, (and intercooler pipes) which is eye wateringly expensive, however very nicely done, and as this truck is a "lifer" I don't mind too much. The 200 seems in good health and pulls like a train so lets make sure it's breathing easily, and breathing clean air as the current setup is a disaster. After that will come the timing belt, and a sort out of some of the less than satisfactory water hoses at the same time however I'll wait until after crimbo in case I need any bits mid-job. I think they call this "Mission Creep"

I've not yet fitted the new ignition switch, but I will as it arrived today. Who knows if the old one is faulty but better to be safe than sorry and all that.

Sod's law found a wobbly propshaft UJ when I was underneath but that might explain an small but slightly annoying vibration at speed.

Thanks for all of the help people.
 
The brake light is supposed to flash when you turn the key to 'run' in order to test that the bulb and circuit are working. The glow plug light is supposed to come on when you turn the key to 'heater plugs'. But you hadn't turned the key.

The brake light didn't work previously, and the bulb won't have repaired itself. And now it does work when you turn the key. The glow plug light doesn't turn off when you turn the key. A motor was running when it shouldn't be - possibly the starter - but it shouldn't be running with the key away from the start position.

You might have a poltergeist, or maybe a short behind the dash. What you definitely do have is greater faith in Landy ignition switches than I have!

Well, we had a similar issue again yesterday! New starter was spinning even after the key was removed! I had a spanner near the battery box for just such an eventuality so disconnected it sharpish, and I have now fitted the new switch off the back of the advice posted here. I started it 10-15 times in succession and it seemed ok, the only slight worry was on about start 7 it cranked very slowly (although subsequent ones were normal speed, and it does fire very easily)

Will keep driving and see what happens...I've not traced every wire end to end although I can't see any obvious damage or shorting anywhere. Fingers crossed!
 
If you haven't bought the Steve Parker air filter kit yet, have a look at the Glencoyne conversion page. I can confirm that the Disco air filter unit will fit neatly in the corner behind the nearside headlight.
It is tight, but nothing is touching. I have fitted some 3mm rubber sheet before bolting it through the inner wing.
airfilter.jpg
 
Yeah, I did actually buy a second hand Disco filter housing ready to do this some time ago, however when I spoke to Glencoyne they said it probably wouldn't fit without clocking the turbo which to be honest I didn't fancy doing. So I have gone for the Steve Parker job (yet to be fitted the bodged up 110 one is still in place at the moment)...which I think will also be a bit happier with a Southdown snorkel too.

Yesterday morning I went out and I had lots of solenoid clicking and the very very slow cranking I mentioned above...far too slow to start. Nooooo! A quick call to my mate (the AA man who came out to rescue me when the original starter borked) and he suggested checking the gearbox to chassis earth strap. Spot on...it was just a poor contact to the chassis. My fault...I'd removed this when I took the starter out to give me some more room to get it out.

Anyway, seems fine now...and the new starter is also much more eager than the old one too.

Bleddy Land Rovers!
 
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