Started Resto work on my S3

Loving the thread.

When painting did you use an ech primer on the ally and red oxide every where else?

Cheers
Rob

I rarely use etch primer TBH. So many better products out there. Use the search function on here and you'll find loads of topics on this subject.

I've had a great day today
Went Shopping at the local LR breakers and came back with:

A complete Cab in pretty good condition
A tailgate
New(ish) instrument pod
and more importantly the front slam panel ( the one in front of the rad) - really chuffed I found that.

Started by straightening the bent tailgate ... 20 new rivets later it was straight again.

I've replaced the rear window seals - and taken lots of pics for anyone wanting to know how to do it with relative ease.

But before I carry on -
DOES ANYONE HAVE THE CAB MOUNTING RAIL FOR AN 88" TUB ? LR part number 346325 - ... ??

Right, onto the interesting stuff.
So if your window seals are fubar'd on either yer truck cab or side panels (they're both the same) and you need to replace them instead of simply filling the rails with Sillycoon or screwing them closed, read on...

First of all, you'll need to remove the lower bracket that has the guttering in it. Basically remove the rivets and take off the stainless window catch runner plates x2


Next, you need to get the glass out - which can be a pain in the arse. The easiest way i found was to tickle the lower bracket upwards and inwards - this should pop the outer lip away from the panel and allow the gutter pipes to pop free, and the glass to drop down enough to remove...


So now that's out, you can pull out the rotted runners and get the screws /sillcone/dead mice/rivets out and remove the dressing lip to empty the guttering and blow out the "drainpipes"...




Then, cut yer new channel to suit..and screw it back in place using new or original holes.



Next you need to do the sides and tops. One side is easily done, as it screws straight into the upright. the other side has a dressing extrusion to remove and setup....




Again, cut to suit, then offer up the new bottom bracket with the glass , and get the vertical runners mounted nice and snug. Drill new holes and screw then in place temporarily.


Remove the bottom bracket and glass.

For the top runners - I managed to drill the screws out - but if yer lucky you may be able to unscrew them.
Cut the new top runners to size and offer them up using the side runners and glass as a positioning guide. Drill and screw them in place. put the glass to one side.

REFITTING THE GLASS:

REMOVE THE SIDE RUNNERS - this will help in getting the bastard bottom bracket in place.

1. Put the glass into the bottom bracket - make sure you get the panels in the right slots!
2. Offer the glass and bracket upto the panel, and seat glass in top runners, partially open.
3. This is the ****ty bit. You need to get the lip on the bracket to hook OVER the outside of the panel by pushing it up and outwards, and then push DOWN and INWARDS to make it pinch and seat properly...you'll get the gist of it.
4. You could just bend the runners and force the glass in, but why risk the glass, and damage the runners?
5. Once it's in and the glass is running smoothly, put some drillbits, or a screwdriver into the side holes to stop it popping out.
   
   
6. Then screw in the side runners.
   
   
7. Rivet the four side holes that you just shoved whatever into...Use Ali blind rivets.
   
   
8. Check alignment and then Refit the window catch runners.
   
   

tap the outer lip back nice and flush, tidy up any gaps with some decent sealer, then Sit back and revel in your excellence

wow you been busy, how much did you pay for your slam panel? need to find a landy scrappy near me because i need one too, mine all rotten at the bottom.
plus i didnt quiet get this bit about the sliding windows, can you do it again with video or on web cam with my side windows lol lol....
busy busy busy tomorrow with jonny coming over i thinks.... camera charged up and ready

Slam was a freebie
Cab was 90
Tailgate was 20
I'd of spent more there, but only took enough for lunch, and the parts.

If you know anyone breaking a cab dude, I really need the rear support plate for the SWB cab.

raise:

I love this thread op2:

i will keep my eyes and ears open for ya rhino, i have found a bloke near me here in wakefield who deals with all sorts of landy stuff, going to pay him a visit next week and i see what he has, will take pics etc and let you know...

Cheers guys
I'm thinking I might make a "Z bar" as i've got some angle kicking about that'll do the job nicely, and still look tidy. This is only if i can't find what i'm after though....

After much searching and swearing, I decided this weekend to forego the OEM rear Cab filler strip in favour of a home-brew sealed blanking plate.
I hate doing it, but the ones I have found while trawling are either already rusted, or overpriced.

I started on test fitting the tailgate tonight aswell, which has gone quite well. I just need the Antiluce Fasteners and to fit the chain blocks and new seals.

Then i can pull it all off again and get some paint on it and put to one side.
It's all come to a screaming halt again ATM, as i can't carry on until the gearbox is back in - then i can start on the reverse limit screw replacement, adjustment and selector rod checks.
I can then do the seatbox, try and work out where the hell i'm going to put the recoil seatbalets that have been fitted behind the bulkhead........and Then it'll be pump timing, clutch bleeding and then wheel out of the workshop and it's finally Paint time

Problem:


Solution: ( do you like my god-awful painting overrun on the capping? Shameful - i've got no excuses, i just didn't pay attention when i was doing a test-coat....

ere rhino ive noticed a few dents in the truck cab lid youve got and just wondering whats yer plan of attack to remove these if your gonna go that far that is

if you do i might have an idea

My hoist turned up today, so gearbox is back in after some fettling and a choice selection of expletives.




Decided that I had time tonight to look at the Distro pump timing, and as i suspected, the Drive gear (pump/oilpump drive) was aboot 10-20 degrees out, and looks like it's been out before then replaced in the wrong timing position.
Took it out, farted about for 10 mins to bring it back within spec by rotating it by 1 tooth, and hey presto - i'm not enveloped in smoke

Few more things to do before I can begin putting stuff back together - the handbrake assembly is missing some vital parts - circlip, bush, clevis pins, pull off spring.....amazing it worked at all TBH...

Sold the safari roof, too.....
...The new Corsa Safari.... Available spring 2014

johnny curt 1 said:

ere rhino ive noticed a few dents in the truck cab lid youve got and just wondering whats yer plan of attack to remove these if your gonna go that far that is

if you do i might have an idea

Click to expand...

Wassat then
I've got a few of them out, but theres a few creases that'll need some more ....... focussed attention..

wow again, your really knocking on with it, took some time out from mine, due to bad weather etc,,,,, going to see about doing a few things tomorrow but no updates from me.... you must have strong lights dawn sarf, attaching your hoist to it lol

dirtyrhino said:

Wassat then
I've got a few of them out, but theres a few creases that'll need some more ....... focussed attention..

Click to expand...

if theres any tech or metal working colleges near you or anywhere you could borrow the use of an english wheel fer a couple of quid to let you roll the fekkers out or make one to fit in yer bench vise useing a couple of big ass wheelbearings and scaff tube

failing the college haveing one most highschools could have one in the technology department or even a panelwork shop

johnny curt 1 said:

if theres any tech or metal working colleges near you or anywhere you could borrow the use of an english wheel fer a couple of quid to let you roll the fekkers out or make one to fit in yer bench vise useing a couple of big ass wheelbearings and scaff tube

failing the college haveing one most highschools could have one in the technology department or even a panelwork shop

Click to expand...

**** me that's a good idea - i hadn't hought of that :doh::doh:

And yes - i've got the special "hard light" tubes from B&Q

just a little braincell blip from a mad professer like me

Ah, but do you use yours Brian powers for good...or EVIL ?

Brian Powers? Sounds like a particularly inept super-hero.

:d:d