P38A Springs back to air UPDATE

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Have you cleaned and checked all the connector pins in the eas box and ecu , you can lock it at motorway height, I run mine in that all the time
 
The connector blocks in the EAS box in the engine bay, the ones to the driver pack but also to the compressor. What are they like? If you can get something in there to crimp them so they grip tightly when plugged together then that might help. Something to file the connectors too. I am sure @pwood999 has something to do this. A mouse file or something?
 
As far as I can see they are all pretty tight connections, I'll give them all a check and see what I can find. It's quite difficult to get anything in there without bending pins.
Cheers
 
I had a problem with burnt terminals on the compressor connection in the EAS box had to cut them out and use spade terminals.
 
UPDATE.
Sorry for lack of posts but been busy recently, I'll list everything below that I've the car tried and the results I've had from the beginning to save people from reading from the first post.
Car purchased with springs fitted.
New airbags fitted, airlines repaired, compressor and valve block re-built.
New relays fitted to eas. (suspension worked briefly then dropped)
Removed delay timer to prove leaks - leaks found and sorted.
Compressor seized so new fitted - Compressor briefly runs correctly and then just judders as though something is switching it on and off.
Found white plugs behind passenger kick panel corroded so cut out an soldered up (compressor issue still the same)
New driver pack installed (compressor issue still the same)
Fitted 2nd new EAS relay as suspect first one failed due to constant start/stop of comp.
Fitted new pressure switch (just thought it was worth a try even though tested ok)
Tested thermal fuse in compressor and found to be Ok.
EAS unlock software put on car and no faults showing

That's were I'm up to now , I don't use the car every day so when its needed I can bridge the relay to run the compressor before I use the car and the EAS seems to work fine, its just driving me mad that it want run when needed. When I do use it I travel on the motorway a lot so even going back up to standard height from motorway height a few times soon empties the air receiver. As far as I can tell (and I'm learning every time I go near this car) the only component left is the ECU itself, is this something that could cause these issues and is it easily swapped/programmed or am I barking up the wrong tree altogether.

Again thanks for all t he help to get this far.
Paul

ECU could indeed be your problem. But before you invest in a new one check the connections to the valve block pressure switch are sound. Clean and tighten them. Compressor circuit is completely separate from all other circuits. It is self contained.
 
Sorry for being quiet ,I have a spare driver pack in the garage you could have borrowed, you said you had to bridge the yellow relay to get the compressor to run. How about a faulty fuse box,a common fault.
 
Sorry for being quiet ,I have a spare driver pack in the garage you could have borrowed, you said you had to bridge the yellow relay to get the compressor to run. How about a faulty fuse box,a common fault.

A working driver pack has nothing at all to do with compressor circuit. Compressor circuit is self contained. When pressure switch shows low pressure, ECU pulls relay to start compressor and this also powers diaphragm solenoid to apply pressure to bottom of diaphragm to seal it.. When pressure switch shows high pressure ECU drops relay to switch compressor off, power is removed from diaphragm solenoid, air from below diaphragm holding it closed is vented into the loom via 4 mm pipe and high pressure air is vented past diaphragm to atmosphere, as same gallery is used for filling tank and venting from bags. That is why if when compressor is running and a lower height is selected. The compressor stops and high pressure air is vented before any air can be vented from bags to lower car. Although it has been known for a duff driver pack to upset the ECU and cause all manner of problems because of electrical feed back. ;);)
 
I was having probe with our easy about 6 months ago kept throwing up faults would work OK for about a week or so and after changing all the sensors pressure switch and other bits and bobs I got hold of a second hand driver pack and haven't had any problems since. Try a different driver pack as I've heard that they can become damaged internally from the heat. Hope you get sorted soon as air is much better than springs.
 
I was having probe with our easy about 6 months ago kept throwing up faults would work OK for about a week or so and after changing all the sensors pressure switch and other bits and bobs I got hold of a second hand driver pack and haven't had any problems since. Try a different driver pack as I've heard that they can become damaged internally from the heat. Hope you get sorted soon as air is much better than springs.

Air pressure constantly high fault can certainly be caused by a duff driver pack which effects compressor operation. But as said earlier the driver pack has nothing at all to do with the compressor circuit. No part of the compressor circuit runs through or is controlled by the driver pack. Normally the driver pack is a slave of the ECU, it pulse opens and closes the corner, inlet and exhaust valves as required subject to signals from the ECU, using voltages the ECU itself cannot handle. It can however fail and electrical feedback can effect the ECU and cause it to malfunction.
 
A working driver pack has nothing at all to do with compressor circuit. Compressor circuit is self contained. When pressure switch shows low pressure, ECU pulls relay to start compressor and this also powers diaphragm solenoid to apply pressure to bottom of diaphragm to seal it.. When pressure switch shows high pressure ECU drops relay to switch compressor off, power is removed from diaphragm solenoid, air from below diaphragm holding it closed is vented into the loom via 4 mm pipe and high pressure air is vented past diaphragm to atmosphere, as same gallery is used for filling tank and venting from bags. That is why if when compressor is running and a lower height is selected. The compressor stops and high pressure air is vented before any air can be vented from bags to lower car. Although it has been known for a duff driver pack to upset the ECU and cause all manner of problems because of electrical feed back. ;);)
Which relay was he bridging? Shouldn't have come in halfway through the post I just saw somebody taking my name in vain and calling me plastic:D. Been knackered since the weekend .
 
Just a thought, how was the pressure switch tested? Is it possible that the spring inside it is broken/weak so that a tiny amount of pressure is enough to switch it? Seems to me that it's either the switch or the wiring to it if it runs when the relay is bridged.
 
Just a thought, how was the pressure switch tested? Is it possible that the spring inside it is broken/weak so that a tiny amount of pressure is enough to switch it? Seems to me that it's either the switch or the wiring to it if it runs when the relay is bridged.

Correct. If there are no faults showing like pressure constantly high, which is usually down to duff driver pack interfering with ECU. Then it can only be down to pressure switch sending wrong data or the connections to it not making properly. Or of course the thermal switch being intermittent for same reasons. Maybe checking the ground point on the N/S inner wing would be an idea. Duff ECUs are rare but of course all is possible.
 
Correct. If there are no faults showing like pressure constantly high, which is usually down to duff driver pack interfering with ECU. Then it can only be down to pressure switch sending wrong data or the connections to it not making properly. Or of course the thermal switch being intermittent for same reasons. Maybe checking the ground point on the N/S inner wing would be an idea. Duff ECUs are rare but of course all is possible.

Think his compressor is new? Unless he cooked it feeding a leak?
 
Thanks for al the reply's, I'm slowly working through all the advice starting with ensuring that all connections are clean and tight fitting (Rain is stopping play at the moment as well as having to go to work), Ill try and answer some of the questions below.
Think his compressor is new? Unless he cooked it feeding a leak?
Yes new compressor which still works fine when it runs and thankfully no leaks at the minute.
Just a thought, how was the pressure switch tested? Is it possible that the spring inside it is broken/weak so that a tiny amount of pressure is enough to switch it? Seems to me that it's either the switch or the wiring to it if it runs when the relay is bridged.
I fitted a new pressure switch (seemed like a good idea at the time) this seems to test out fine switching as required with my meter across it.

Wammers ; I didn't know about the earth point I'll check this out, Thanks

The other thing I cant get my head round with the compressor is that I can make it run with the EAS unlock software, I'm assuming this still powers the same way through the relay etc. so at least some of the compressor circuit must be functioning or does it switch it a through a different route with the software.
 
EAS Software will ask the EAS ECU to switch the relay to run the pump....just the same way as the ECU would command the relay to switch in normal operation....

If you can get the pump to run correctly by commanding it to via the software, I would say the ECU is at fault and is getting spurious electrical spikes from somewhere (driver pack as mentioned above) and it is modulating the compressor to run intermittently and in rapid succession.
 
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