sorting this chassis

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

AntHughes

Member
Posts
42
Right after seeing dans thread "I only wanted to paint the rear crossmember" im gunna attempt to weld my own chassis and jump in at the deep end.

the question I want ask you guys is, is it possible to weld it to a decent standard without stripping it down to bare chassis, as I haven't really got the space or time to strip it all down.

plus I was thinking of once its done giving it a steam clean, and coating it in line x paint.

your help and opinions will be greatly appreciated.
 
Right after seeing dans thread "I only wanted to paint the rear crossmember" im gunna attempt to weld my own chassis and jump in at the deep end.

the question I want ask you guys is, is it possible to weld it to a decent standard without stripping it down to bare chassis, as I haven't really got the space or time to strip it all down.

plus I was thinking of once its done giving it a steam clean, and coating it in line x paint.

your help and opinions will be greatly appreciated.

yes ,welds on the top side can be difficult in places but making plating so it comes over the side to weld easier
 
yes ,welds on the top side can be difficult in places but making plating so it comes over the side to weld easier

Well this was my thinking also but luckily the places that need patching are on the bottom. he says, guarantee now the effing rot will be everywhere now, can of worms spring to mind lol.
 
what do you guys think about the line x paint on the chassis, or should I stick to waxoyl, or a friend of mine recommended Schultz.

I was thinking line x because its polyurethane based so technically putting a strng plastic coating over the chassis.
 
Yes you can weld it all built up, but I've had 12 years of lying on my back getting burnt so I chose the longer option. Also a lot of the corrosion on mine was on top and other hard to reach areas so my thinking was if it gets repaired or replaced, it still needs to be stripped. But my situation is different to your's so do what works best for you and use what is available to you.

With regard to coating it afterward, I don't have a great opinion of any coating that is thick and hard as it can lift in one area and moisture can get in and then it starts to rot away under the coating and will spread quickly. A good chassis paint and some underseal over that is a good combination as it's still flexible with the chassis.
 
Thanks dan I never thought of it like that, the line x stuff is meant be quite tough and robust like so don't know if I would get any lifting issues with it and im sure its guaranteed for like 15 years or something like that, but know you've mentioned lifting I don't know if I wanna chance it :scratching_chin:
 
It's the fact that it's so tough and hard that is the problem, the chassis actually flexes about even under normal conditions and this is what causes a hard coating to break away from the chassis. I don't have experience of Line-X but I have seen the videos of it being struck with a mallet and such and you can see that it is hard. If they took the same panel and flexed it I'm sure it would break up.
 
Back
Top