Sorry but I have more questions.......

Hi all. As the title says, I have a couple of questions -

I finally got round to checking the tread on my front tyres and noticed they were down to about 3mm ish. The rear ones have much more tread on them. Will it cause issues if I just swap front to rear?

I have a knocking/clicking noise when cornering right (I don't think it does it when cornering left), am I right in thinking this is the drivers side cv joint? Is it straight forward to replace?

I've been checking the fluids quite regular under the bonnet just to make sure everything stays topped up nicely and wondered if, when I come to do an oil change, there were other fluids I should look at too?

Thanks.

Matt

newer tyres should always be on the rear

Thanks @The Mad Hat Man I don't suppose you would know if it is possible to get a tool for removing locking nuts? I can't find mine for the bolts.

Old socket, large hammer, and buy replacements

NewFreeLandy said:

Thanks @The Mad Hat Man I don't suppose you would know if it is possible to get a tool for removing locking nuts? I can't find mine for the bolts.

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speak to landrover. they should be able to supply.

if not, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Locking-...h=item286cbb119f:g:peUAAOSwmDBb3v1C:rk:8:pf:0

@Beneagles Lol. I've heard about trying that but wasn't sure. That will be tomorrows job I think.

Thanks for the link @The Mad Hat Man Will have a look.

NewFreeLandy said:

Will it cause issues if I just swap front to rear?

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Yes. 3mm is too much to swap end to end.
I swap mine if the difference is less than 1mm. Anything more than that will cause wind up of the 4X4 system, which is bad.

I'm glad I wasn't able to go ahead and do it today then. Last thing I want is to go and damage something.

You don't say how long you have had the vehicle or what it's service history is like. Topping up the coolant is good but if it's really old, it should be replaced, same with brake fluid. Haynes manual says what the frequency is. Many change the gearbox oil and axle oil but I've never done that.

Col

I took the hit and changed the engine oil, IRD oil, diff oil, gearbox oil, coolant and have just flushed the power steering.

Judging by the colour of my power steering fluid alone, just topping it up wouldn’t have really made things any better for the hydraulics.

When next in the engine, make sure you’ve changed the crankcase breather - when I changed mine it was almost solid! Would be a good idea to swap out the air and pollen filters too, in my case they were both black!

When I first got mine I had two different types of locking wheel nuts on ,I took it round to my local tyre fitters and one lump hammer an old socket and less than 5 mins later they were off

Luckily I have found my locking nut. I keep forgetting about the tool bag under the bonnet. At about 1am this morning I remembered and it was in there.

NewFreeLandy said:

Luckily I have found my locking nut. I keep forgetting about the tool bag under the bonnet. At about 1am this morning I remembered and it was in there.

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Yes. The pre 2001MY vehicles had the wheel change tools under the bonnet. After 2001, they moved them to the book under-floor locker.

I think I may move mine to the little under floor box in the boot then I hopefully don't forget about it again. Although it does look unused so may just keep the locking nut in the glovebox.

NewFreeLandy said:

I think I may move mine to the little under floor box in the boot...

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AKA the padding pool. Don’t be surprised if it gets a bit wet.

So far (touch wood) mine is still dry. It was soaked when I got the car but I'd read on here about drilling small holes so I went and done 1 in each corner.

I removed the carpet and put silicone around the welds of mine and so far (over 2 years ago), no sign of dampness.