Some help and advice for a newbie please??

Hi, I am now 1 week in to my first Land Rover, and its gradually dawning on me what I have taken on! It came from a trader, and last owner was a farmer who had it 15 years. I paid just over £3K for it.

200 TDi 1993 K.

I have a few questions / doubts / concerns, I am hoping to get some advice and that I have not bought a dog here:

1 - OK it comes with 12 months MOT, great I think, so the chassis will be solid.

Ventured underneath today and without hitting too very hard, I managed to knock a couple of small holes in the rear chassis, which I think could be patched up.

Mor concerning is the front passenger side outrigger (I think that is what it is) see pictures, major corrosion on that, not sure if it is fixable? Advice from an expert please?

Regarding all of this chassis corrosion, I supose it needs dealing with ASAP? There appear to be quite a few patches and bits of angle etc welded at various points on the chassis, all look fairly well done. So it has been addressed before. Is there a limit to how much welding a chassis can take?


2 - Steering: Although the steering whell has virtually know play in it, ie it moves the wheels almost straight away in both directions, the steering does fell a bit "vague" for want of a better description. Is this normal?

3 - Squeaking from back (drum) brakes, not all the time, but intermittent, any ideas?

4 - I dont appear to have a jack, unless its cunningly hidden. I am also unsure where the jacking points are? Are they the round holes in the front and rear of chassis? If so where do I get a suitable jack? OR can I get a bottle jack suitable to go under the axles maybe?


5 - Driving is fun, but I am still in that early phase of not knowing the vehicle and trying to ditch the dreaded "bought a dog" feeling.

On the plus side, under the bonnet the engine is as clean and tidy as any car I have ever seen, and it starts like a dream even in this cold.

There is a lot of cosmetic work to do, but I knew that and am happy doing it.

My main concern is the chassis, and how much money I might need to throw at it in order to get through the next mot.

I plan on keeping it for years, so long as I am happy that it will last.

I am not a welder myself, I have done a bit, and I think I could probably manage the small patches, but the outrigger concerns me.

I am in Princes Risborough, Bucks.

Help please!!!!


Many thanks, this forum has been invaluable to me in the last week.

I would go over the whole chassis with a hammer and or screwdriver and assess just how rotten it is. Shouldn't have passed an MOT like that.

hi ,just make sure you look all over it, 3000 G is a lot off money to part with ,and then you have to fix the chassis ,keep your dow in your pocket. and wait till it feels right go with your gut if it feels bad it it is

The rear rot can be sorted by replacing the rear cross member if you get one with the extensions makes it a bit easier.

The out riggers can be sorted by chopping the old off n replacing with a new1 not too expensive to do if you weld it yourself or get a mate to do it.

But as hugesy says check the whole thing over as a galvo chassis will make a BIIIIG hole in your pocket.

The jack if you have one should be behind the seats attached to the rear bulkhead, you can pick up a farm type jack or as you say use a bottle jack.

The cosmetic stuff is easy enough to do as and when you get the time.

As for the steering .......... it aint a ferrari you have bought you just need to adapt to it a while.:welcome2:

thanks, when you say check the whole chassis over, what am I looking for, and what would make it real bad news?

Sounds like I have bought a load of grief here :-( I am a bit gutted today.

ya looking for holes I'd suggest a phone call to the MOT station An the seller asking them how they passed this vehicle in the state it's in and suggest a meeting to discuss what they are going to do to rectify the problem. If they refuse to play ball a phone call to trading standards and an online complaint to VOSA' MOT section should put the cat amongst the pigeons..

my suggestion would be
1)consumer direct -see link below
2) local VOSA as that should never have passed an mot, unless things have changed -mechanical 1 month,corrosion 3 months
(you say it has 12 months mot then shouldn't be like that)
3) ASK CONSUMER DIRECT -how to reject vehicle.

Grab a large screwdriver and crawl under and poke it all over the chassis, scrape any loose rust off n poke it again you dont need to go mad just be firm.

If any holes appear investigate till you get back to good , solid metal you will be able to tell how bad it is after 20 mins or so.

Good metal should make a thunk rather than a sound like punching a pillow.

Just be thorough with it it probably isnt as bad as you think.

also read the "crock of ****e" thread - a few pointers and a dummy letter.

:nothingtoadd:

Seriously, Without being blunt you need to follow the advice posted, now if VOSA look at it and agree I'd be looking at the issues fixed and undersealed and 1k in my hand for inconvenience. Anything less hand it back and full refund after VOSA **** storm

Oh dear. Not what I was hoping to read :-(((

What should be my first step here? Call the guy I bought it from?

Trouble is it was 100 miles away.

What a nightmre, I was so looking forward to getting it, and after I found these holes today I am gutted.

1) read the crock of ****e thread
2)Phone Consumer Direct-free legal advice and you don't have to wait half a life time as with citizens advice.
3) Armed with your legal rights and knowing the dealers obligations-Contact the dealer and pass on the information.
4) If it was me I would telephone first, if they get ****ty-tell them

A)your getting VOSA inspect it

B)your rejecting the vehicle

C)full cash refund and they collect as not in a road worthy state-otherwise see you in court


D) RECORDED DELIVERY LETTER

E)Court proceedings


Normally the VOSA and recorded delivery letter does the trick-because it's impossible to argue there findings

wheres the crock of ****e thread??

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/buying-crock-****-if-you-already-have-76002.html

you've paid reasonable money for a 90, although looking a tad tired. all landys suffer from rotting out especially farm vechiles that have lived in cow **** all there lives no excuse tho!
obviously sitting on the fence you should of had pics of befor cos they could say you must have smacked it pretty hard to cause the big holes if you were that concerned to get under it then yuo must of know of some issues so perhaps checked it a little better. its an old farm trick to take farm veciles covered in **** cos the mot guys dont like getting there hands dirty, it covers nasty stuff and farm landys dont do massive miles.

steering on defenders is a little wondery i have a wobble around 50mph dies off bout 60mph then its time to brake for a roundabout!!!

brakes could be anything cheap pads dirt siezed etc take em apart clean em up see how they go.

not sure on where the jacks are on a 90 jaking points are hole in front of chassis and in rear cross member.

i got issues when i bought mine i should of looked better i just fell in love it,it also got mot'd on a wing n a prayer so im going to enjoy 11months of landy ownership then spend a month getting it thru the next mot... just enjoy it

jack point on landy 90 is on axel, left or right flattish area, close to wheel. should do from the back or front, not from side.

mine also has holes in the chasis, but got someone to look at it today and said I didnt need to replace anything, just weld it and at that, it wasnt bad at all for age. hard to say about yours, its just pictures and what your saying.

12 months MOT, and passed, you have a case surely! you cant lose this battle, I cant see from a legal point of view, they be scared, even if you did go crazy on it, they will be investigated, the MOT centre and they may just say god just give him the cash, or they may offer to fix it them selves so they minimize their costs, but make you happy?

so I would try not and worry about that, its going to be covered one way or another, aint it? laws and all that are on your side!

p.s when I got mine 6 months back I didnt really look at it, just drove. Now knowing lots more about them, next time I ever buy one, ill be 100% clued up. A learning curve, but a valuable one, long term!

fanatic, does that only cover purchases from a garage, and not from a private seller?

I have emailed the guy I bought it from, hope I can sort it out.

I have found several other smaller holes in the chassis too.

What constitutes MOT failure in this respect? I am sure that the outrigger and the big hole that appeared at the rear (both shown in photos) would.

How about other smaller holes??

What a nightmare.

well the MOT guy has a small hammer and hits the chasis at various points and if a hole is formed, it needs welding or whatever. Basically any hole is a fail! he may say he didnt use the hammer on the points your talking about>? I dont know how many points there ment to check.

I have suspicions that trade garages, have favorite MOT places where they can pop it along and get waved on a little more than normal. That might not be true, but I think thats a case, as the trades guy often give you a 12 month MOT.

RUDDdefender90 said:

I have suspicions that trade garages, have favorite MOT places where they can pop it along and get waved on a little more than normal. That might not be true, but I think thats a case, as the trades guy often give you a 12 month MOT.

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You are correct. If you want a dodgy MOT there are test stations out there that will pass a vehicle.

With corrosion if a hole forms within 90 days of an MOT pass the MOT station is in **** street. If you have 12 months mot then they are in a world of ****.